Knock Sensor location/replacement
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Knock Sensor location/replacement
I ran the KOER on my 1994 5.0l F150 and received a Code 225 "Knock Sensor Not Detected". Does that mean it may be bad, or not there all together. I had the engine rebuilt about 3 years ago maybe they did not put it back in....
Is it difficult to install/replace?
Thanks,
Jim
Is it difficult to install/replace?
Thanks,
Jim
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,555
Likes: 40
From: Concord, NC
Did you goose the throttle when the computer told you to during the test? It could mean a dead sensor if you did rev it, or the timing could be out of spec as well. I'd run the test again, and watch for the single blink after the engine code is output, then stomp the gas for an instant, turn the steering wheel half a turn and tap the brake pedal. Then count the blinks like normal.
If you did all that already, here is where the knock sensor is located:
This picture is looking at the back of the engine.
If you did all that already, here is where the knock sensor is located:
This picture is looking at the back of the engine.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 64
Likes: 0
From: Cannon Falls, MN
I have a related question... I'm replacing my '95 302 with a '94 351w. The '94 351w doesn't have a knock sensor. I'm using my '95 ECU and wiring to be able to use my MAS from my '95 302. Do I need to plug the knock sensor connector? Will I get a check engine light?
I'm also eliminating the air pump and tubes to the heads, there are a couple of relays w/electrical connections that run vacuum valves on the air tubes. If I plug the vacuum lines and keep the electrical connections to the relays will there be a problem?
Thanks, Brian
I'm also eliminating the air pump and tubes to the heads, there are a couple of relays w/electrical connections that run vacuum valves on the air tubes. If I plug the vacuum lines and keep the electrical connections to the relays will there be a problem?
Thanks, Brian
Trending Topics
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,908
Likes: 2
From: West Mansfield, Ohio
Lmao Quicklook I was thinking the same thing. I was like damn he went all out to help this guy!
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,555
Likes: 40
From: Concord, NC
Brian:
What I would do is remove the knock sensor from the 302, and plug it into the wiring harness when you install the 351. Just tie the sensor securely out of the way. This will keep the computer from throwing codes for not seeing the knock sensor. I think that if you leave the two solenoids plugged in electrically, the computer will not turn on the check engine light.
What I would do is remove the knock sensor from the 302, and plug it into the wiring harness when you install the 351. Just tie the sensor securely out of the way. This will keep the computer from throwing codes for not seeing the knock sensor. I think that if you leave the two solenoids plugged in electrically, the computer will not turn on the check engine light.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,555
Likes: 40
From: Concord, NC
That's correct, it's a piezo-electric device, which generates a signal when it senses a certain frequency range (i.e. knock). Generally, two wire sensors do not need a ground because they are grounded through the computer, for example, the engine temperature sensor and air temperature sensor.