Hey all...my passenger's window motor is worn out and I can hear it spin but she's got a hard time pushin the window up....I bought the gearing rebuild kit....30 bucks (ouch) anyone have any pics on how to do this as well as tips and tricks for it...Any help appreciated...not looking forward to doing this.

JR

 

what is worn out?

is it elec?

not hard to do depending on what is wrong.

 

yes it's electric...sounds like the plastic drive gear...

JR

 

I had the very same problem on my 1990 and it turned out to be the actual gear set for the motor. Very easy to do if you know what to look for. I had to drill out a couple of access holes to get to the motor to replace the gear set/kit. Do a search for "window motor tech". You'll find a very good detailed instructions on how to repair the window motor, etc.. courtesy of 1965F100 aka Silverfox. Good luck!

 

take the kit back and just buy a new motor assembly, it is only another $20 from what you have already spent and save yourself the headach of that cheep electric motor failing next year.

 

i would do the same.

the motor is not that much.

even in the same year they use different motors so take yours out first.

advance auto had a good price on them.

 

Here are some pics of when I swapped the manual cranks for power actuators on the new-to-me doors I put on last year before the paint job. I have circled the 4 fasteners that hold the complete regulator/motor assembly to the door in one of the pics. These are rivets from the factory that have to be drilled out if you go this route.. which I replaced with captive body nuts and bolts. The motor is held on the regulator with 3 smaller bolts which you can access by drilling holes in dimples in the door, so it's not absolutely necessary to remove the whole assembly. Be sure to prop up the window glass with a stick or something before removing the motor.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/motorstuff/sets/72157602815798457/

 

Be sure you catch that part of it as it is probably the most important statment in the post for just changing out the windo motor...

 

Thanks guys...appreciated.

JR

 

More often than not, it's just the three drive pawls have hardened and the last time the window got driven to a stop, it crushed them. The pin kit is about $6. Gear and pins, yeah, about $30. New motor assembly, $104. I've done both doors, driver's side 3 times now. Turns out, my 'Bird and my truck have EXACTLY the same window motor. Last time I had to do the passenger side on the 'Bird, I bought a new assembly, and installed it. Then, I took the old assembly apart, cleaned the motor/armature, and put new drive pawls in it, and replaced the passenger side motor on my truck. I took the stator and drive pawls from the passenger side motor, and rebuilt the driver's side motor which had a cracked stator magnet. I've McGyvered the window motors on my truck many times, but I'm running out of useable parts to do that any more, so the next time will probably be another new motor. If you're going to pull it anyway, it would be a good idea to disassemble it, and clean/lube the commutator end bushing with some light lithium grease. That one seems to like to seize up, especially in wet climates where moisture will start accumulating inside the motor. They're supposed to be sealed and water tight, but so are a lot of other things that start leaking. These just leak in, not out. Use some scotchbrite to clean the commutator as well. Putting it back together is a lot trickier than taking it apart. The stator will ****** the rotor out of the end bell, and let the brushes go unless you have a 3rd hand to hold all the pieces with. I found it easier to put the rotor in the stator, then, with the brushes tied back with string slip it over the commutator, and cut the strings out. Make sure the commutator is clean and dry (brake cleaner works wonderfully for degreasing it before polishing with scotchbrite) or the grease will soften the brushes and lead to early failure.

 

well since were on power windows-I've had problem with 2 different trucks-if the window is all the way down-hit a few bumps-the window will not come up-beat bang on it-it's like it just locks in the down position-i have to pull the door panel off-loosen all the bolts and then hit the up button-tighten it up then it will work right-I just don't roll it all the way down-any ideas???

 

What bolts are you loosening? When the window sticks can you hear the motor turn or not?

 

I have to loosen the attaching bolts-and no the motor won't do squat until I loosen it up-it's like it binds up or has a safety lock out feature-i know many years back-some cars had that for little fingers so they would not get broken on the up side!! thanks for chiming in-Conaski -been giving me the blues for years-maybe someone can help me figure this one out-never fails when she does it -it's calling for rain-usually now passengers that don't have to pull it apart

 

I don't think these motors have a safety lockout, but they may have an integrated thermal or current limit relay. I have had one of my motors refuse to work occasionally.. usually in the up position. Sometimes it just starts working again and sometimes I have to pull the door skin off and give the motor a rap with a tool to get it going again. My guess here is worn brushes in the motor as my window glass doesn't bind, but you may want to try to isolate your problem and determine if it's the motor giving out or if the window is binding.. either from a bent track or worn or displaced rubber seal.

 

Good call Paul.

The motor does have thermal overloads built into the end bell to prevent frying the wiring to the motor or the switches (hopefully). I opened mine up one time to find it nearly half full of water. Gee, I wonder why it quit working. As they get older, and the gaskets on the ends of the stator dry out, they'll start sucking water in from warming and cooling, but won't let it out. You can only imagine the amount of corrosion from all the dissimilar metals being in a water bath.

If you put the window down, take it most of the way down, then bump it down until it just disappears below the scrapers, but does not bottom out. See if it'll come back up then. Sometimes, the last tooth on either end of the regulator rack will get a little worn, and allow the drive gear to bind. One other thing, watch your battery voltage gauge when you're trying to raise it. See if the voltage drops when you try to raise the window. If not, chances are the contacts of the thermal overload are crudded up or corroded so badly it won't let enough current through to run the motor. You can disassemble and rescue the motor, but only so many times. They usually do this when the brushes are badly worn, or the bearings in the motor. I've done my DS door 3 times now, and the last time, I think was the LAST time I can repair it. Next time it quits, time for a new motor assembly.