Sleeper dually build?
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I never touched any oil lines to my knowledge except for pulling a plug near the bell housing to insert the oil pressure sensor and then the freeze plug in the hole where the old mechanical pump used to be. My suspect is the freeze plug because the valley was filled and after wasting a roll of shop towel on the ground (and then some) I looked in the valley and it was empty. Will find out tomorrow when I buy more oil
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: AZ
The freeze plug hole, to my knowledge, is not a oil pressure point? We who use the T4 setup use that hole as a turbo oil return spot. Unless of course it splashes around alot at that point because of the movement of the cam.
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She is alive!! Pics to come after I upload them off the phone to the computer.
had a few snags.
1) the oil leak was from the little o-ring on the turbo pedestal. I put both of the rear bolts in the pedestal to try and make it easier and I think the P/S rear bolt knocked out the ring.
2) had a fuel leak in front. Turns out the o-ring from the factory banjo bolt stayed on the head (I didn't notice until after) so fixed that.
3) Got in it one time hard, started smoking really bad. Pulled over and had smoke pouring out from under the hood. Threw that open and prepared for the worst. Kicked the key on and was spraying from the D/S rear. Instantly knew it was the banjo bolt again with an o-ring on it. Pulled, fixed, installed, no more leak.
Throttle response seems to be better, no opinion on the turbo spooling faster as claimed nor the fuel economy since I have to wait to fuel up. Also have to wait to fuel up to test the float in the rear tank.
Things learned: 1) check all connections, 2) double check all connections, 3) make sure old o-ring are removed, 4) penetrating fluid for a week works really well.
Next upgrade is: _______________
had a few snags.
1) the oil leak was from the little o-ring on the turbo pedestal. I put both of the rear bolts in the pedestal to try and make it easier and I think the P/S rear bolt knocked out the ring.
2) had a fuel leak in front. Turns out the o-ring from the factory banjo bolt stayed on the head (I didn't notice until after) so fixed that.
3) Got in it one time hard, started smoking really bad. Pulled over and had smoke pouring out from under the hood. Threw that open and prepared for the worst. Kicked the key on and was spraying from the D/S rear. Instantly knew it was the banjo bolt again with an o-ring on it. Pulled, fixed, installed, no more leak.
Throttle response seems to be better, no opinion on the turbo spooling faster as claimed nor the fuel economy since I have to wait to fuel up. Also have to wait to fuel up to test the float in the rear tank.
Things learned: 1) check all connections, 2) double check all connections, 3) make sure old o-ring are removed, 4) penetrating fluid for a week works really well.
Next upgrade is: _______________
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I would enjoy suggestions. Here's my thought process. Supporting mods so that way reliability is at its highest. I.e. built trans, t500, IC, etc.
I traded my 95' HPOP for a '97 HPOP so I have a core for a t500.
Few options for next are:
- 4 gauge pillar pod (boost, EGT, trans temp, fuel pressure)
- BTS trans ($5000 though!)
- Intercooler (Banks system from Riff Raff)
- T-500
- Head studs
I traded my 95' HPOP for a '97 HPOP so I have a core for a t500.
Few options for next are:
- 4 gauge pillar pod (boost, EGT, trans temp, fuel pressure)
- BTS trans ($5000 though!)
- Intercooler (Banks system from Riff Raff)
- T-500
- Head studs
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
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From: AZ
I have a John Woods trans so I know about $5K! But, you need a trans cooler also, especially if you tow any. Your list looks good but if your staying with the stock turbo then you can wait on the head studs, valve springs and push rods for awhile. Electric fuel is also a good mod, it gets rid of leaks too! Injectors are a great seat of the pants mods, the size depends on what your goals are with the truck.
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Was looking at injectors last night. If I go rosewood I'll get either 160/80 or 238/100. But I also saw on Thoroughbred diesel has 200/30 swamps injectors classified as "aggressive street/heavy tow"
turbo wise obviously depends on injectors. I heard if I go with 238s I'll probably want to do 400 series, if I go 160s or 200s the gtp38 I think it is?
But I also read in another post about the upgrade s366 you have.
turbo wise obviously depends on injectors. I heard if I go with 238s I'll probably want to do 400 series, if I go 160s or 200s the gtp38 I think it is?
But I also read in another post about the upgrade s366 you have.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 20,419
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From: AZ
I had the 160/80's but they were to hot for towing 17K so I downgraded to 160/30's which has plenty of power but don't get as hot. The s369sxe is suppose to be a really good turbo but its more turbo then my stage I's can handle. There is a lot of info in guys signatures.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Southeastern IL
From what I've read/seen on here, 160/80s are the absolute max if you are going to tow. They're great on the street but hard to keep cool
You could consider stage 1.5s? 160/30s. Seems like a good in between
You could consider stage 1.5s? 160/30s. Seems like a good in between
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Rather reliable DD/tow rig that will be clawing at 400 HP until I power train swap. I hear that over 400 (especially when I tow from MI to NC and vice versa) that it'll run to hot through the mountains. So nothing extreme, but enough to play around with per say.