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You could probably tow with higher HP if you use a S400 series turbo, but it'll be laggy and smokey. Higher elevations will make your egts rise as well.
But from the first pages of the build you can see the discussion of high horsepower tow rigs in the mountains. I don't want to be melting parts. Reliable always trumps power.
You could probably tow with higher HP if you use a S400 series turbo, but it'll be laggy and smokey. Higher elevations will make your egts rise as well.
Ahhh all incorrect... I can't complaign ...heck I tow @450hp and its a beast!
From what I've read/seen on here, 160/80s are the absolute max if you are going to tow. They're great on the street but hard to keep cool
You could consider stage 1.5s? 160/30s. Seems like a good in between
You did follow me through the mountains no? With 180/80's, stock air and no CAC. Must be the driver. LMAO!!!
What's everyone's opinions? My 7.3 bookface page swears up and down about Hydra because of on the fly tunes, can be sent via email and downloaded to the tuner, and they can hold up to 17 tunes.
The TS-6 seems to be rather reliable though as I seem to notice quite a few members here with them.
What's everyone's opinions? My 7.3 bookface page swears up and down about Hydra because of on the fly tunes, can be sent via email and downloaded to the tuner, and they can hold up to 17 tunes.
The TS-6 seems to be rather reliable though as I seem to notice quite a few members here with them.
The old ts is OK. My huge issue is emailed tunes and having the ability to have multiple tuners on the chip at the same time. Ts is just one dudes tunes. For instance I know of one fella that has tw tunes for power but they are smokey. He has dp tunes as there is less smoke for dd . In some places smoke is a huge nono as those kinds of tickets would be costly. Some tuners are better drivability than others. I tend to want flexibility so I have a hydra.
Heck I put a video up of my last dyno apt. My tuner saw the video...he revised my tunes and had them emailed to me the next day. I never even pulled my chip like the ts would have had to be shipped out and likely be gone for a week or longer...
^^Agreed! Plus there's the cost. Yes, the TS is cheaper, initially. But every time you need a reburn or switch to a different tuner it's going to cost you and that adds up fast. Someday I'll be switching to a hydra; but with this last go around for me it was a matter of getting the cheapest thing I could since I'd spent a bunch already on the clutch, injectors, and everything else.
For what its worth, I will list all my mods on my 95 7.3
I used to pull a very heavy overloaded 20 foot enclosed trailer that was also like 9-10ft tall. Basically a parachute. The setup I have pulled great with no egt problems. My truck also has big 24" wheels with big tires.
All my work was done at shops which is very expensive. I have over $20,000 in my setup.
Irate S366 SXE Full Kit
Stage 1 Rosewood Injectors
Intercooler
IDP Complete E-Fuel System
4" DP, 5" straight exhaust
Hydra with Gearhead Tunes
ARP Head Studs
Irate Pushrods
All new gaskets and seal
New glow plugs
Boost Fooler
Built the E40D at a local performance transmission shop
Some of the money spent was fixing other problems on the truck, but it was all money well spent. Will say I have had a few headaches working out the bugs along the way but I have finally gotten it lined out. Truck is fun to drive and pulled great and reliable.
Intercooler, Rosewood Stage 1.5s, Hydra, and I think an S366 with the upgrades I've seen in another post. 360* thrust bushing, etc, etc. Gotta find the post again.
These upgrades like Glenn did.
Last edited by Fordman96; Mar 13, 2017 at 06:31 PM.
Reason: Found Glenn's post.
Don't really have an update, but I did "upgrade" my can clearance lights. One was out, couldn't remember what the number was to fix it and so I went to Google. That led me to a powerstroke nation where I found out it's the 194 bulb, HOWEVER, someone mentioned that you can replace it with a 168 bulb which is brighter. Picked up 5 (well 6 because 2 packs,) of the amber ones (originally clear I found out) and replaced them all.
Replaced just one at first and it definitely is brighter even though it's NA instead of clear.
First picture is 194 clear on left, 168NA right. Second picture is all 168 NA installed.
Newest addition to the rig. Getting rid of the 5th wheel rails so I need new tie downs for anything that goes in the bed. 2 installed. Deciding where I want the other 2-4 to go.
So I found a set of 2006 F350 axles to swap to under the truck. Complete rotor to rotor, comes with brand new slotted rotors and all new calipers. I'm running into a few problems though:
1) I want to keep the truck a drw instead of a SRW (axles are off SRW truck). I can't find a schematic of the 10.5 to tell the difference between a SRW and a drw.
2) I'm fairly sure it is just an adapter HOWEVER I would like to use OEM components instead of these aftermarket adapters that are 3-4" spacers. I can't seem to find one for the truck. Only ones that pop up on Ebay that are "stock" are for 99-04 trucks.
3) I know some people have done this swap before so does anyone have anything that I should watch out for or additional modifying that will need to be done?
For the front axle I'm going with these: 2005-16 Ford F-250/350 Short Arm 4-Link
I saw Travis use these so I have quite a bit of confidence in them especially since he's building a race truck and I'm... obviously not.
All other things I need to take into consideration are GREATLY appreciated.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
