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No problem, it's second hand stealing anyhow, have one of the 42 pin connector too but I'm not sure if it identifies glow plugs or injectors so I didn't post it.
No problem, it's second hand stealing anyhow, have one of the 42 pin connector too but I'm not sure if it identifies glow plugs or injectors so I didn't post it.
UPDATE:
Replaced the GPR and did the OHM test on glow plugs. Pass. side 3 read .7 ;1 read 1.1--Driv side read same as Pass side.
Truck did start but ran really rough.
Thoughts....
Also Pass. side was oily looking as Drivers side dry looking
That's the one and the more I think about it the more those have to GP's, since reading an injector there would be of no value.
Originally Posted by Jterr
UPDATE:
Replaced the GPR and did the OHM test on glow plugs. Pass. side 3 read .7 ;1 read 1.1--Driv side read same as Pass side.
Truck did start but ran really rough.
Thoughts....
Also Pass. side was oily looking as Drivers side dry looking
Both sides with one at .7 sounds odd but it's not impossible. This is where my abilities end, others will guide you on troubleshooting it.
Lets back up and check the relay, because those numbers are good on the GP's. Have you checked the function on it? It really good be that the relay itself isn't working. The relay closest to the firewall is the GP relay.
Get a 12V test light and with the key off, the large post with the cover on it should be constant hot. The others should all be dead.
With the truck cold, turn the key to the on position and for the first 60-120 seconds the constant hot, the small post towards the front, and the large post towards the drivers side should be hot as well.
After the glow plugs time out, about 120 seconds or so, then the 2 small posts and the constant will be hot with the large post on the drivers side going dead. If that isn't how yours is working, then it's the relay.
Lets back up and check the relay, because those numbers are good on the GP's. Have you checked the function on it? It really good be that the relay itself isn't working. The relay closest to the firewall is the GP relay.
Get a 12V test light and with the key off, the large post with the cover on it should be constant hot. The others should all be dead.
With the truck cold, turn the key to the on position and for the first 60-120 seconds the constant hot, the small post towards the front, and the large post towards the drivers side should be hot as well.
After the glow plugs time out, about 120 seconds or so, then the 2 small posts and the constant will be hot with the large post on the drivers side going dead. If that isn't how yours is working, then it's the relay.
I hate to be the pessimist but last weekend I was on my 3rd relay in a few weeks, the one on the truck went bad. Bought a new one, as I was tightening the the small lug towards the front of the truck with a 1/4 ratchet, I felt it break. I hoped it still worked but alas, that wasn't the case. So I bought another one, was VERY careful not to over tighten anything when installing the 3rd relay, and still no glow plug action. Plugs have about 40,000 miles on them at most and are Motorcraft, so I am pretty certain they haven't failed, but unless I was jumping the relay, I wasn't starting when cold. I was sure that I had another issue. I was figuring I had a bad wire somehwere or something crazy, I mean, I had 2 new relays, there is no way that was the issue....
Went through the procedure with the test light while on the phone with White Buffalo I outlined in my last post, this past weekend and guess what? Yep, the third relay, 2nd new one, was bad right out of the box. If you do that test and the relay is functioning, then we have another problem, but you can't be sure until you do it.
If it isn't the relay, then it is either the GP's themselves, worn injectors, or a compression issue, assuming you have good voltage (10.2-10.5ish), good ICP (500PSI), and good RPM (>100) at start up. Them's the facts.
Here is how it went this morning after sitting all night.
First start fired but quit as soon as let go of key.
Next heated GP's 3 times, cranked but after sounding like it was coming apart,stopped.
Next time heated GP's 5 or 6 times fired up and get running; but no power. Let it idle for 5 mins. then started out to town. By the time I got to main road(about a Mile), had more power.
Then after giving it full pedal it responded and ran normal to town with a few stops and back.
I will go check the GPR after it cools down..
Rotella 15-40 Just changed 1500 miles .. But the previous owner I don't think knew you were to change it very often...
I was thinkin of just doing another change and do the HPOP also
Try putting in Rotella T6 synthetic 5W-40 or a brand that you like in that weight. If it starts easier it is a good indicator that the tolerances on the poppet valves in your injectors are very close to being too tight.
Meaning, almost time for new injectors. That being said, do you have any way to do some diagnosis as far as reading sensors and logging data? Like an android phone and the Torque app with the appropriate OBD bluetooth adapter or similar scan tool?
Absolutely. All that poppy **** about not putting synthetic in a motor that hasn't ever had it, and causing leaks is outdated at best. You'll be fine. If the injectors aren't too far gone, it will buy you a few months while you save up for some injectors. Ask me how I know....
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