Holy smoke! Ouzo and bunny dust together? Surprised you're not still chasing that rabbit!

 

Yep.
Have a Buddy at the ignition switch and a set of drill bits at easy reach by the carb. No, I'm not kidding this time. On a cold morning do this with an engine that has not been started yet.
1. move the throttle linkage to set the choke fully on.
2. have your buddy start the engine.
3. once the engine starts the choke will "unload" a tad. This is the 1st part of adjusting the choke.
4. move the throttle quickly to get it off fastest idle.
5. with it now on the 2nd level on the fast idle cam, slowly manually open and close the choke flap just a touch. Once you find "the sweet spot" and the engine is running the best hold the choke flap Right There. Don't move at all.
6. yell at your buddy to shut off the engine.
7. still holding the choke flap right? Should be.
8. now one by one stick a drill bit down the throat of the carb between the front of the choke flap and the throat of the carb. Careful not to drop them down there. Once you find the drill bit that fits Just Right, you have your measurement.
9. now adjust the choke linkage to unload the choke flap exactly there.

Once you have that adjusted check to see if the coke stays on too long or not long enough by driving it. If you want to adjust this 1st note where the scribe line on the black choke cap is lined up with which notch next to it on the carb. This is your starting point for the 2nd part of adjusting a choke..

10. if it stays on too long loosen the 3 screws that hold the black choke cap and spin it one notch at a time more "Lean" until satisfied.
11. or if it doesn't stay on long enough spin the black cap one notch at a time more "Rich" until satisfied.

 

Thank you, Jeff. Very well written and easy to read and follow!

 

You are welcome Abe. Who says "you can't teach an old dog new tricks"? Heck, I learn stuff on here at times also. Who doesn't? Just don't drop one of those drill bits down the throat of the carb. Then you'll be cu*sin' me instead.

 

Glad Jeff got this thread back on track. I love EFI, but want a carb where a carb is supposed to be. I prefer a manual choke, but if a vehicle came with an auto choke, I always enjoyed the challenge of keeping them adjusted correctly. I like getting in one, depressing the accelerator fully one time and having a cold engine bump off at high idle the way they were designed. Always impressive to my friends who couldn't get one to work right or were running something they thought was a better design than the factory stuff from Dearborn.

Nice instructions Jeff!

 

That is how mine is working right now. It will idle high as I should, but when I pull out and drive it seems like the choke has opened. When I get to a stop sign it wants to stall out unless I keep going it gas. Shouldn't the choke remain closed or partially close until the engine has warmed up?

 

Yes is should. The Ford design is a little tricky to get just right and the frustrating part is having to adjust with a cold engine (regardless of ambient temp). Try Jeff's procedure and that should help.

 

Yep. The choke should slowly open as the engine warms up. (2nd adjustment) But 1st it has to be unloaded right after start up the correct amount. (1st adjustment) Say for example it is adjusted where after initial start up the choke flap opens a tad too much. And I mean a tad. This would be too lean. The engine sitting in your driveway can sound good relying on the fast idle. 1st or 2nd step of the fast idle cam. But when you go to drive away, putting the engine under load, that too lean of mixture will show up as no power, stalling, or worst case popping back up through the carb.
Note to all, back firing up through the carb is a WAY bad thing. It can eventually melt the venturis in the throat of the carb.

 

Thank You.
I feel the same way about carbs. But I do respect the fuel economy and adjustments Hio now has. But you have to be careful about buying carbs off Ebay advertised as "for parts or rebuildable core". I just found out the hard way today. I bought a Holley 600 CFM list number 9834-3. The desert find (to make a long story short) list 1850 I had put on my 460 has something wrong with it plus not set up for A/T linkage. Dumps WAY more fuel than a blown power valve. Well, I got the 9834-3 today and took it apart. Found GOBS of sugar. So much so that the secondary float was wedged full open. Bowls are junk. I hope I can soak all the sugar out of the rest of the carb. I have extra bowls here but....SUGAR....REALLY? People still do that crap?????

 

Ha, could not have said it better. Love me some old timey trucks. As an old timer told me once, if you have to get there quicker, leave earlier. That is exactly what I do with my old stuff.

 

I watched a video of a guy that soaks his carbs (and R.C. airplane engines) in warm anti-freeze. Normally over night and it really comes out nice. He uses a pan on a hotplate or crock-pot of 50-50 mixture of green antifreeze& water. Don't do it in the house! the fumes are dangerous!!

 

No kidding? I'll have to enter this one in the ol' memory banks. Sugar is not effected by my Berryman's carb soak. That anti freeze trick may work. But I sent a return request to the seller. I don't want to mess with this POS. Thanks though Gary.