I recently made some "improvements" to my 71 F100 SB flareside. Was 3-on-tree, manual steering, manual brakes.
Had already converted to power disc brakes.
Over the last few months installed a c4 (still work in progress) and power steering. I used a power steering gear from the same year F100 and the power steering pump, hoses, mounts from about a 77 (Ultraranger steered me in the right direction - word play intended).
In some around the block test runs (not current on tags and inspection any longer), the power steering does work, but it seems to "catch" some at the outer edges of travel. Not a lot, but still takes away from a smooth steering effort.
Not sure if the issue resides in the column, steering gear or in the front end.
The C4 change is going OK (no kickdown yet) and tranny shifts hard or firm. However, just have not had enough miles on it to determine issues. No leaking, yet.

 

If the steering gear box came from a '71, it should be a Saginaw box (same as what I have from a '78 F150).

If the power steering pump/brackets came from a '77, it would be the Thompson 'pencil neck' pump (not the same as what I have).

I have a Ford C-2 pump/brackets from an '82 F100/F150 Bullnose that had a 300 in it.

The Thompson PS pump was discontinued at the end of 1977. The C-2 didn't come out until 1978.

 

I have the big mouth power steering pump. Thought my brackets came from 76 or thereabouts. Not sure. It has been a while since I located those items.
The pump is a reman or new one from NAPA, I think. Worked great with the hoses you listed.
Don't have a cooler on it.

 

Brackets would have to be from '78 or later for a C-2 PS pump. The '65-'77 Thompson pump and the '78-'86 (V-belt) C-2 pump brackets aren't interchangeable with each other.

I don't have a cooler on my power steering system either.

 

You could have caster issues, I know that with excessive caster the wheels will "flop" over towards the end of travel. It could also be related to linkage geometry, when I first did my swap I did not use the correct linkage and couldn't get the toe close enough. Once I swapped in the parts from the donor truck it was all good. You need to use the linkage for the knuckles.

 

Hill, Lift the front wheels off the ground and turn the steering wheel coast to coast 20 times. This can purge air from the system and might get it working for you. Just takes a little time, doesn't cost a cent.


John

 

This is how I prime a new power steering pump/power steering system BEFORE ever starting the engine.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14809141

My pump has been quite running and trouble-free since day one of its installation.

 

My 1st reaction was either dry king pins needing grease or their bushings are worn out.

 

I will try the turning coast to coast. This front end doesn't have many miles on it. Rebuilt it last year including the kingpins.

 

If you could get underneath while someone else does the coast to coast you will probably see the problem if it isn't air that is.....

 

Also double check the rag joint doesn't have to much pressure on it between the gear box and steering column. Happened to me when I installed my quick ratio box and new rag joint, caused a bit of drag.

 

If there's a lot of pressure between the end of the steering column to the input of the steering gear box, it means either the metal cab mounts are rusting through and/or, that the rubber cab mount bushings have compressed/collapsed and are pitching the cab at either an up or down angle.

Looking at the body lines between the rear of the cab, in relation to the lines on the bed, will tell you if the front mounts are bad or whether the rear mounts are bad. If the body lines at the back of the cab are lower than the body line of the bed, then you know that the rear mounts are the problem.

If this is the case, the cab being lower at the back means the front of the cab is being pitched upwards. This will also place an upward force at the end of the steering column, where it connects to the rag joint and the input of the steering gear box. If the front mounts are bad, the opposite problem will be true.

 

Good point and good info ultraranger.


In my case the mounts and bushings were fine (probably could use new bushings but they were not to bad, future project). For some reason on mine, the rag joint needed a little persuasion to go further onto the splines of the gear box and steering column, this got rid of the slight tightness I had.


But, your point on the mounts and bushings should probably be looked at by the OP. Seems like when you start replacing one thing, you need to replace 3 other things in the process.

 

My metal cab mounts aren't rusted but my rear cab rubber bushings are compressed and is letting the rear of the cab droop about 1/4" lower than the front.

Evidently, it was like this a good while before I bought the truck and is something I haven't gotten to yet to correct.

The droop at the back of the cab was pitching the front of the cab upwards and putting a lot of strain on the lower manual steering (automatic transmission) column bearing and the rag joint.

I'm sure the rag joint was old but, the added strain had shredded the rag joint. This is what was left of the old raggedy rag joint.


The strain had totally ground up the lower column bearing. It was completely disintegrated and gone. The column tube was also sawing a groove into the steering shaft (where the awl is pointing). One side of the clamp and one side of the clamp bolt head and nut also shown ground away from where they were dragging on the end of the column tube.



I installed power steering and a tilt column. I don't have a rag joint anymore. I replaced it with a stainless steel Borgeson steering joint. (Borgeson joint seen in the following photo).

 

Best way to get the air out, turn to lock with engine running. Shut it off and wait 5-10 minutes, repeat in other direction. You might have to repeat the cycle, usually not. Sawing back and forth just causes the air to foam the fluid.