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some filters come with "Supplemental Coolant Additives". Mainly used in the larger diesel motors to recharge the coolant fluid instead of replacing all that fluid.
Don't use it in our 6.0L motors. Need to stay away from silicates. And pre-charged filters put silicates into the coolant. Silicates can plug your oil cooler.
I bought the IPR filter and Vince suggested that I use the manifold. I have the manifold, but I want to install it inline on the heater hose as I already cut it when I installed the Sinister.
The 3/4" hose is nice. If anyone has a concern about not getting another filter, I am thinking about ordering an extra. It's cheaper than an oil cooler.
Do you think the preferred method is the bypass? Please elaborate.
Post some photos of your install. I have the van and will install on the frame rail.
On the IPR page for the filter, there are several detailed photos. Click the first diagram which is the Bypass method or Diagram 1. IPR High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
You'll see in that diagram IPR says its their "preferred method". I assume they prefer this method because if the filter clogs, it wont stop the heater from working....which to me isn't a big deal since I live in south FL.
I did read a thread on another forum where some guys mounted down on the frame rail which i like but they seemed to be having trouble with high coolant temps with that setup for some reason. The guy says he was asking Vince about it but no resolution was ever posted and the thread was a few years old. I'll post a link if i can find it again.
The main reason I didn't mount down on the frame rail was because i didn't feel like springing for the $55 ball valves (gravity can be a bitch sometimes) though i may end up installing valves after i see how messy pulling the filter off is up in the engine bay.
I'll take some pics later and see if i can post them. I haven't posted any pics on this site yet.
For my install, I first drained off about 3 gals of coolant in clean bucket. Then removed the degas bottle for easy access to the driver side heater hose.
Then I removed the driver side CAC tube for easy access to the passenger side heater hose. Next i removed the flap in front of the radiator in order to run the return hose in front of and at the top of the radiator. I had to cut a hole in the flap under the air filter intake where the intake goes through to front grill. Used a box cutter. I ran the heater use under the air filter bottom mount and up to the existing heater hose. I then found the best position for the filter where i was sure it wouldn't make contact when the hood closed, drilled holes and screwed the bracket on. with the Filter base still off. i teflon taped the hose barbs, installed then installed the base on the bracket, screwed on the filter.
Some pics of my IPR coolant filter install....
This one didn't come out very good but this is the T under the degas bottle, driver side heater hose.
There might be a couple other places you should add protection for the hose or wires: on the driver's side where it goes through that flap? And if yours is like mine, where the Tee is in the heater hose behind the Alt, and the hose clamps are, there's a wire loom right under -- I couldn't see in your picts if it was there, but I took a piece of hose and wrapped it around the wire loom and silicon taped it in place...
There might be a couple other places you should add protection for the hose or wires: on the driver's side where it goes through that flap? And if yours is like mine, where the Tee is in the heater hose behind the Alt, and the hose clamps are, there's a wire loom right under -- I couldn't see in your picts if it was there, but I took a piece of hose and wrapped it around the wire loom and silicon taped it in place...
There might be a couple other places you should add protection for the hose or wires: on the driver's side where it goes through that flap? And if yours is like mine, where the Tee is in the heater hose behind the Alt, and the hose clamps are, there's a wire loom right under -- I couldn't see in your picts if it was there, but I took a piece of hose and wrapped it around the wire loom and silicon taped it in place...
Installed a Diesel Site coolant filter in 2010 with cutoff valves. This is a turn key kit. It has worked without fail for six years.
Why did I go with Diesel Site? I was somewhat confused about the differences of the major brands of the coolant filter kits. I called Diesel Site and asked for the owner. he was out at a truck event and they said he would be back in two days. I couple of days later, he called me back and answered all of my questions. This kind of service is priceless in this world of low or no customer service. I'd do business with them again.
Actually the place the hose runs through a "flap" is on the pass. side, now that I look at it again... You might be able to tie wrap some places just to make sure hoses/wires don't move -- sometimes just as good as putting extra rub protection in...
I bought the IPR filtration kit for the 6.4 because it has longer hoses. They sent me instructions for manifold installation and looks easy if you remove the Turbo-impossible if not removed..
I already cut the lines for the Sinister Filter to the heater hose inlet which is before the oil cooler. I am having difficulties understanding the configuration for the van as there are no specific instructions. I did open the second diagram on IPRs site and it does not look full flow.
I sent an email to IPR suggesting using the existing cut into the heater inlet hose and run the filter hoses inline with the heater hose inlet. The filter will become the "splice" to the cut line. IPR said that it's a difficult angle. I agree.
I have enough extra hose to make a "loop" like most of us did as kids with out Hot Wheel tracks. The coolant will still flow.
The manifold is beautiful. It's just another $85 on top of the $50 for the shut off valves. Once it's all put together, I don't care how pretty it looks as the filter is mounted on the frame rail and the manifold sits on top of the oil cooler housing.
"as there are no specific instructions. I did open the second diagram on IPRs site and it does not look full flow."
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Ya, the only thing specific in the instructions was were to splice into the heater hoses. They don't tell you to remove the degas bottle or cac tube or to drain off some coolant before hand either though they did explain how to run the heater hose around the front of the radiator.
I guess in their defense they probably expect if the customer is going to do the install they should already know or realize these things have to be done. I somewhat agree with that but on the other hand its also lazy documentation.
Ya, the only thing specific in the instructions was were to splice into the heater hoses. They don't tell you to remove the degas bottle or cac tube or to drain off some coolant before hand either though they did explain how to run the heater hose around the front of the radiator.
I guess in their defense they probably expect if the customer is going to do the install they should already know or realize these things have to be done. I somewhat agree with that but on the other hand its also lazy documentation.
It's not as specific as Sinister's installation. On the other hand, it's basic plumbing.
A bypass filter has actually been used quite a lot in the past and it can work fine. The GMC 2-stroke roots supercharged diesel in my 1952 Dozer uses a bypass oil filter as did a few million other GMC 2-strokes in service. Since I don't get much traffic on my Facebook site, I'll embed what I did here since I've been in this thread already.
This is how you could set up the system on the 7.3L, still a bypass but a more direct flow inlet.
With the 6.0L I set the filter up in the same location that I used with the '01, which scares many who worry about puncture. Never had an issue.
But it gets dirty in the winter.
Since my truck never had the vacuum heater flow shut off valve, I made one which included a means of hooking up the bypass hose for the filter.
It uses a mix of 1/2" copper parts and 5/8" copper tubing. Yes they make that! 5/8" has an OD of 3/4" so it fits well into the heater hose, and 1/2" copper tubing has an OD of 5/8", so it solders right into the 5/8" BTW, I keep a length of 5/8" copper and two worm clamps in the glovebox if a hose fix is ever needed for any of the heater hose.
The return tee is rather simple.
From the first filter off my 7.3L
And this is what a two day old filter looked like after I did double Restore and double Restore Plus flushes and a triple rinse afterward on the 6.0L. Yeah, there's still things floating around in there.
When you did the double restore plus were you replacing the oil cooler? What is the purpose of leaving the filter on during the flush? Can you turn it off?
2x Restore, 2x restore plus, then added a new filter. This was a cleaning attempt to not replace the cooler. The cut open filter in the last pic was after two days of running so despite all of that cleaning and flushing work some residual iron particles loosed with the one version of Restore were still in the system, and if you look in the bottom of the can some residual silicate goo was also in there despite the other double flushing with the other version of Restore.
Somewhere I have a recent image of the filter I just took off and it is very clean after 35k. I do however need to change this oil cooler again in the next few months. Keep in mind that after all this work a rebuilt motor was installed in this truck not related to the coolant activity. So there is still materials that stay in the radiator and heater that are not flushed out. And my procedure for reverse flushing is the one Karl Lyon used in the flushing manual posted in the forums. I think once you have a situation where the coolant starts to gel over unless you are going to change out both the radiator and heater core you run the chance of still more issues on the way.
However, for me there could have been another factor, and that is the rebuilt motor could have had some gold coolant in it from dyno work, and that didn't mix well with the ELC I already had in my cooling components, and given to the dealer at the time of motor replacement.
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