I used teflon tape because of the instructional video from Mishimoto said to use it.

 

Yep, any of those should work. Just try again...

 

Thanks. I'll put a little clear silicone on top of the Teflon tape.


One thing I did notice about the kit is the quality hoses. They are very nice. But, I though this was really important. The hose that connects to the heater line is really easy to slide on past where the other hose T's off of. I know this is common sense but I was going to put the hose on to the same amount the original hose was but I noticed it would have blocked off the T'd hose. Just an observation.

 

I had the identical problem on my XDP unit, so you are not alone. Tightening it didn't work, so I drained down the system and re-did that fitting with Teflon tape. Well it still leaked . So I drained down the system again and put the same Teflon tape on, but another wrap or two and tightened the fitting A LOT tighter than I had been going. No leaks!

I probably wouldn't try a combo of Teflon and silicone sealant. You could try a liquid Teflon (comes in a tube) or I've had really good luck with Rectorseal -- just the standard stuff for general use, it even works well on PVC...

Bottom line though: you need to tighten more than you might think...

 

I've had the Dieselsite coolant filter for almost 5 years (50k miles) and have had 0 issues with it. I ordered the ball valves when I order my kit. It mounts real well, it's tricky to remove the filter w/o first pulling the battery, but I also rotate the batteries every 10k miles, so I just replace the filter while I'm in there..

 

Thanks for the advice. I've got two wraps of the tape and it's EXACTLY like you say, I figured I had already tightened it too much. Then I put another full turn on it to get the valve back up on top. Still leaked. I would figure that metal is soft because it's just brass going into aluminum. I definitely don't want to strip it.

 

Well, I got a chance to reinstall the valve today. I was surprised with both valves closed, no coolant leaked out at all when I pulled the valve out. I wrapped the threads with 3 wraps of the tape and to my surprise tightened it as much as I had before. That was about all it was going to go. But reconnected the hose and fired it up, NO LEAKS!

 

YEA!!! Sometimes it is the little things....

 

I have a tube of Loctite 567 thread sealing compound in my soft tools drawer of my cabinet that I use on a lot of projects. It's not cheap but I've got a few decades of history with the product with many fluid threaded applications, some up to 4,000 psi. It an aerobic like all of Loctite's products, but if I need something sealed, it works! It's downside other then it's cost is it's a Loctite product, a thread locker. If you plan on taking it apart do it soon or use something else. Like any thread locking compound, it holds tight. A great product wherever the threads are the seal.

 

I think there is a misconception out there that the IPR Filter is a full flow setup, ie it filters ALL of the engine coolant. That is wrong, it simply filters all the coolant going to the heater. As Jack mentioned above, a filter for teh whole system would be huge as it's pushing upwards of 70gpm, plus if it plugged you would start losing cooling capacity.

What's interesting is that most Superdutys have a valve in the hosing to the heater that shuts off when not heating, so it begs the question wouldn't the IPR "full flow" setup would have no flow and thru not do any filtering if you aren't using the heat?

With the bypass setup you are filtering no matter what the heat is doing.

 

If you install the IPR with the manifold that sits on top of the oil cooler housing, there is always water flowing.

 

IPR labels their filter as "High Flow" rather that "Full Flow"; however in their write up they say, if the filter is setup in line with the heater core its "Full Flow, 100% for coolant going to the heater not the entire cooling system. They also say that if the heater is turned off the filter will still filter nearly 100% of coolant (not really sure how that works). I installed my IPR few days ago in the preferred by-pass method (vs inline heater method) with the routing around the front of the radiator to the driver side heater hose (IPR preferred that is).
The only install issue i had was that the supplied heater hose was about 8" short. When you buy the highest priced filter on the market they should ensure the supplied heater hose is long enough.
I only found one other filter that used 3/4" lines and it was created by a guy over on one of the other forums and the price was little over 200. it was the canister type so i opted to spend the extra 50 bucks and get the re-usable filter. I also liked the idea of being able to inspect the filter without having to cut it open.
There is also some debate about level of filtering between canisters vs mesh screen. canisters filter out to a much smaller micron. To me, I figured particles small enough to get through IPR's filter wouldn't clog the oil cooler so the issue is moot.

 

That is definitely one of the things that I liked about the IPR kit that it had a lot bigger hoses to flow more coolant. But in the end, I didn't like the proprietary filter and not having the ability to shut off the valves to change or clean the filter. I guess one could always buy some ball valves to fit the housing like the other brands to be able to shut off the coolant for the filter changes.


BTW, what is most everyone using to cut their canister filters open with? Any recommended filter cutters?

 

I bought the IPR filter and Vince suggested that I use the manifold. I have the manifold, but I want to install it inline on the heater hose as I already cut it when I installed the Sinister.

The 3/4" hose is nice. If anyone has a concern about not getting another filter, I am thinking about ordering an extra. It's cheaper than an oil cooler.

Do you think the preferred method is the bypass? Please elaborate.

Post some photos of your install. I have the van and will install on the frame rail.

 

I cut my previous one open with my Dremel.

Didn't cut the one I changed the other day. Just drained it in a clean bucket.




John