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I have a 2003 E-450 short bus that I am removing the 7.3 from.
The engine is all but out. The only things holding it in place are gravity and one bolt to the Tranny (I think, we'll see what happens when I start to tug on 'er).
I have removed the crankshaft pulley (that came off easy enough with a puller) and placed the water pump pulley in its place on backwards. Why you ask? OK, to remove the engine I will take the bucket off of my front end loader and put that lower knuckle inside of that pulley, extend the ram and attach it to the lifting eye on the rear of the engine. Then I can lift it, work the ram in and out to change the angle of the engine and get it out. I have done it before and it worked like a dream.
My question is...can I pull the tranny out with it, or do I naeed to unbolt and support the tranny and wriggle it out fterwards?
Are the bolts around the perimeter the only ones attaching the tranny to the engine or do I need to reach up in through the access plate and loosen something up there?
I have a 2003 E-450 short bus that I am removing the 7.3 from.
The engine is all but out. The only things holding it in place are gravity and one bolt to the Tranny (I think, we'll see what happens when I start to tug on 'er).
I have removed the crankshaft pulley (that came off easy enough with a puller) and placed the water pump pulley in its place on backwards. Why you ask? OK, to remove the engine I will take the bucket off of my front end loader and put that lower knuckle inside of that pulley, extend the ram and attach it to the lifting eye on the rear of the engine. Then I can lift it, work the ram in and out to change the angle of the engine and get it out. I have done it before and it worked like a dream.
My question is...can I pull the tranny out with it, or do I naeed to unbolt and support the tranny and wriggle it out fterwards?
Thanks,
Mark
I left the trans in the bus on the last one I did. I remember a bellhousing adapter that has to come off after you separate the engine and trans. We made a 2 pronged adapter to fit into the oil galleries believe it or not. It worked great.
yes this is a job you don't want to have to go back and do again.
It takes a LONG time. To remove the passenger side valve cover, you either have to remove the driver's side engine mount and let the engine drop down, or remove the six cab to frame bolts and jack the right side of the cab up about an inch for the clearance you need to be able to weasel the cover up over the high pressure oil rail and out.
That said, it takes a couple of hours. The driver side valve cover isn't as bad to remove. Just take care when removing the nine TX-30 oil rail bolts on each bank of cylinders, so as not to drop them into bad places.
I've done 4 or 5 of them. I've spent 2 weeks doing them. Of course we're paid hourly, not flat rate. We also usually replace just about everything we see, wiring harnesses, egr coolers etc.
I've done 4 or 5 of them. I've spent 2 weeks doing them. Of course we're paid hourly, not flat rate. We also usually replace just about everything we see, wiring harnesses, egr coolers etc.
All of those are jobs I've done quite more than my share of, back a few years when these vehicles were newer, and still within warranty. I sure as hell don't miss working on them one bit. Read my signature.