When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Im removing the engine from my 78 F250 with a 460 and an auto tranny. ive got all of the outside bolts removed that connect the engine to my tranny but my chiltons manual says to remove the nuts from inside the converter housing that sit on the flexplate. when i got the access plate off i could only see one and it was gonna be a bitch to get to. do i need to take these off or will the engine come off the tranny with just the external bolts removed? thanks guys
yes you need to remove them. the flexplate bolts to the crank as well aas the converter. rotate the motor until one bolt is with in reach thru the inspection cover, repeat process until all bolts are removed.
You can make life easier on yourself if you remove all the sparkplugs. This will make the engine easier to rotate while you're under there at an awkward angle.
Also, once all the nuts are removed, use a prybar or large screwdriver inserted between the flexplate and torque converter and walk the torque converter back towards the trans. This will prevent the torque converter studs from getting hung up on the flexplate as you seperate the engine and trans, and also help prevent the torque converter from falling out and spilling trans fluid all over the place.
So, like the FE series engine, does the 460 require marking that one special bolt on the torque converter that goes through a hole in the flexplate making sure it gets put back in the same hole when reassembling?
i already have the heads off my engine. Ive been waiting to borrow my buddys engine hoist so i took them off while in the engine bay. so it should be pretty easy to crank. any other advice on removing the block from the tranny is greatly appreciated. this is my first engine rebuild where im actually taking the engine out and putting it back in the vehicle so im a bit nervous
I would take a paint pen or such to mark the converter stud to it's hole so you don't have to struggle to find which arrangement is right. As mentioned, there is only one way to get all the studs in, so even a quick shot of spray paint on one stud in the flex plate will save some time and irritation later... Generally, once all 6 bolts are out, the starter is off, and the converter is unbolted, it pretty much comes right out. Might hang up on the alignment pins, but they generally come right apart.
if you dont want to pull the torque converter nuts, you can pull the torque converter out with the engine. it is just splined onto the input shaft of the transmission and will slide off. Probably will make a mess, but the nuts will be easier to get to. Idk if it matters which stud goes in which hole when you go back together, but the flexplate will only bolt onto the crank one way. Usually it is a good idea to replace the input shaft seal on the trans while you have the engine out, so you will have to pull the torque converter anyway. Make sure to support the trans either way.
Also use a GOOD quality 6 point socket to get the nuts off converter studs. Those nuts round off real easy with a poor or worn socket...And yes I found out the hard way years ago.....