Removing the engine - what is easier?
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Removing the engine - what is easier?
351W in a 92 F150 with E40D. Is it easier to remove the 6 tranny to engine bolts and only remove the motor or should I remove the motor and tranny attached? I have a 2 ton hoist. I only need to remove the motor but those tranny to engine bolts can be a pain.
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Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Toledo, Ohio
The whole assembly is easier to do. However, I think either way you will have to remove the radiator, rad support, front clip, etc to open it up and have enough clearance. But it is easier with everything, only heavier and doesnt sit as level as an engine alone.
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Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Ottawa, Ontario
The engine alone will come out without removing the rad or even the hood if you keep the hoist chain short.. have done it several times, but I don't see the engine and trans coming out as a pair without removing the front clip so there's no way that method is "easier".
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OP, don't forget the 6(I think) bolts on the flywheel for the torque converter.
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Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Central Wisconsin
I've never had an issue getting the motor out by itself and leaving everything (hood, radiator, fenders, ect) in place.
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Hmmmm...it's just a pain leaving in the tranny because those bolts are hard to get to and lining up the torque converter when reinstalling but sounds like the thing to do
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Fleet Owner
Joined: May 2009
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From: Gilbert, PA
No, its not. Like I said, long extension and swivel. Have the 2 top bolts out in 2 min. As for the TC bolts, you shove the TC ALL THE WAY IN to the pump, then when the engine is in place you slide it forward 1" and put the studs thru the flex plate
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Joined: Jan 2008
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From: Ft. Worth, Texas
My opinion:
Leave the transmission in the truck. Cut a hole in the hump of your floor board to get to the top 2 tranny bolts.
I would take off the hood. I would also take out the radiator. Why risk hitting the radiator unless you are about to buy a new one anyway. To me, removing the radiator only adds 10 mins. Also nice having the hood out of the way and risk damaging the hood (unlikely I know)
Leave the transmission in the truck. Cut a hole in the hump of your floor board to get to the top 2 tranny bolts.
I would take off the hood. I would also take out the radiator. Why risk hitting the radiator unless you are about to buy a new one anyway. To me, removing the radiator only adds 10 mins. Also nice having the hood out of the way and risk damaging the hood (unlikely I know)
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2011
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From: New York
I had the same question a few months back and ultimately decided to pull just the engine. And that's with the longer I6 engine and M5OD gearbox, so you should have it easier. I was mostly concerned with getting the two mated back together, but I had no real issues there. Getting the bellhousing bolts out was no big deal - as suggested, a long extension did the trick for the ones up top.
I did remove the hood and radiator. Removing the crank and water pump pulleys helps too but probably wouldn't be needed on a V8.
I did remove the hood and radiator. Removing the crank and water pump pulleys helps too but probably wouldn't be needed on a V8.
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What's the front clip? I can't figure out what this is.
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Posting Guru
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My opinion:
Leave the transmission in the truck. Cut a hole in the hump of your floor board to get to the top 2 tranny bolts.
I would take off the hood. I would also take out the radiator. Why risk hitting the radiator unless you are about to buy a new one anyway. To me, removing the radiator only adds 10 mins. Also nice having the hood out of the way and risk damaging the hood (unlikely I know)
Leave the transmission in the truck. Cut a hole in the hump of your floor board to get to the top 2 tranny bolts.
I would take off the hood. I would also take out the radiator. Why risk hitting the radiator unless you are about to buy a new one anyway. To me, removing the radiator only adds 10 mins. Also nice having the hood out of the way and risk damaging the hood (unlikely I know)