Not necessarily - it depends how much the main bore for that particular bearing has been damaged, along with the cap. In all reality, if it is a bearing all you'd need to do is remove the shell from the housing and cap bores, then throw some plasti-gauge in there and torque to spec with new (if required, most are TTY so one-time use) and check the clearance. I'm not a fan of plasti-gauge over using an actual dial-bore gauge, but for in-vehicle the PG will give you a good enough representation of actual condition. It WON'T tell you out-of-roundness, which can be an issue. Assuming it's only out a few thousandths and it's still round, you can get an over-size bearing shell and throw it in there and keep on trucking.

 

IF that's your problem, then find a good mechanic willing to give it a shot, and like Matt said, you can fix the rod knock while the engine is still in the rig.

You do have to cross your fingers though. You gotta make sure that crank journal is round, like Matt posted.

Edit: When was the last time you changed your oil?

Stewart

 

Oil changed last night.

Knock is definatelly with warm motor. Disconnected y pipe from cat and started. It was kinda loud but I was happy....no knock. Then it warmed up and knock knock knock. I could barely hear it but it was there, above 2300 rpm. Maybe I need to clean motor...maybe carbon build up in cylinder 1 is causing detenation.

I can easily put in a rod bearing....built diesel motors, a 557 CID stroked 460, a 8000 rpm turbo 4 banger, 350s, etc. The hard part is getting the pan off.

Kenne Bell instructions step 39 of installation states to put the 4" thick "sonic insulator" in between the valley where the knock sensor is and the bottom of the lower plenum.....wonder why they did that? I dot have that item.
What the heck would a sonic insulator do other than hide sounds from mechanical parts. Last time I checked my motor don't have ears.

PS...I have never found a mechanic that cares as much about my vehicle as I do. Most today rely on computers and steps in a manual to fix stuf...thats fine but I think some enginuity is lost in the process.

Besides I hate paying for labor and not have an issue fixed. I understand they put time and effort and I owe them....it's just fustrating. I work on all my vehicles.

 

Did it look like it had glitter mixed in it?

Stewart

 

No, funneled thru paint funnel.

All looked good.

Cutting open filter to double check.

Bought 2 cans of Amsoil Power foam. Going to spray some into #1 cylinder at TDC on compression stroke and let it do its work.

Then I will rotate motor by hand a couple times and inject power foam into manifold after supercharger.

If it's carbon deposits causing knock this might fix it.

 

Can't run the power foam thru it. Because of the bypass valve I can't even run it in after supercharger. Stuff will ruin the bearings in head unit.

I will just have to spray it in the cylinder thru sparkplug hole and let it sit for a while then start it.

 

Theoretically you could hook up a compression tester or similar (solvent-safe hose with fitting for the spark plug hole). With the engine at for said cylinder, fill through the test hose and fitting and fill until it back-fills up the hose. Granted it'll leak down past the rings and such, but it should help get it up on the valves and seats and other carbon-prone areas. To be safe I'd run a sacrificial oil change afterwards as the solvent could screw some things up, but a 'rinse oil change' so to speak along with combustion heat afterwards should burn the rest off.

 

Bearings in the what, unit?

Just unplug the brake vacuum booster line and with control, allow the vacuum to suck half a bottle of seafoam into the system.

Stewart

 

According to Kenne Bell there are bearings that screws rotate in. I guess they are sealed and KB stated that even a water meth system plumbed pre supercharger will damage unit.

The only reason they are ok with water meth is it can be plumbed after supercharger AND only activates when by pass valve is closed and water meth cannot get to SC.

Not using sea foam....Amsoil Power Foam is "supposed" to be MUCH better.,

 

And the problem is identified.

Spent all day removing oil pan.

Everything "looked" good, rods not discolored, no abnormal play....but I went this far so I removed rod cap.

Forged crank is pristine and shiny, no marks on it at all....looks new.

Rod looks good bearing did not spin.....it melted or something.

See for your self.


Melted AL bearing.

 

What in the hell... Almost looks like there was insufficient oil clearance when machining was done on the main bores. Did you reassemble it using the existing bear shells and check it with some plasti-gauge? Would be interesting to see what the clearance is, especially if it ends up being a bit too tight and needs a smaller bear shell to prevent this from re-occurring.

What are your oil temps? That bearing looks delaminated due to heat, which is either insufficient clearance for an oil barrier OR your oil temps are astronomical. Babbit and other bearing material doesn't start to melt and smear until around 360-390*...

 

Photo of #6 rod bearing. Right next to #1




Did some looking on the net, seen a couple photos of bearings that look like #1.

Possible causes are detenation, and overloading. Piston hammering on rod causes a loss of oil film making the bearing melt and roll.

Also, cheap $3 AL bearings ford put in. I can buy these for about $4.50 each at summit.

I am going with tri metal for replacements due to the supercharger....supposed to be a better bearing. Costs $15 each.

Did not reassemble, there are pits and ridges in old bearing, no way to tell what the original clearances were.
#6 rod bearing....right next to #1.

 

I agree that the bearing is fatigued. Probably due to excessive heat. I would check the clearance before and after but also bar the engine over a few times by hand and the inspect the new bearing. If the rod is out of round enough, it will mark the new bearing. Make sure it's toques properly too. Hopefully the rod is still in spec. If it was heat, that may change the rod dimension. Hope that's not the case.

You're making great progress, keep up the great work!

 

Well at least you found the cause of all the ruckus. I wonder if Vandervell offers bearings that'll fit... So long as the specs match up, it doesn't matter what they're listed for really. There's so many parts listed as engine and brand specific, when it all reality all that matters are specs and sizes.

I'd still be interested in the oil temps, given how things are going awry and off the charts in different areas it might not hurt to keep an eye on it instead of a dummy gauge with a broad sweep range.

 

It's alive again..

All 10 rod bearings replaced, could have gotten by with just replacing #1 as all the rest looked perfect. Took the better part of 8 hours to replace all bearings and reassemble everything.

I am using 5W30 now since I have a tad more rod bearing clearance. Plus I took out the 195 degree thermostat, it's not the right one. It's supposed to be a 185. I installed a Ford Lightning thermostat it's a 180 degree unit.

I started it and smoooootttthhhhhhh. No knocking or tapping. All I hear is the motor running....cool.