Project Excursion Kenne Bell Install
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
It's normal from what I can tell.
Throttle position sensor out of range??? - Ford Mustang Forum
TPS Range/Engine Load - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
It's why I'm not tuning it. Don't know enough about ford quirks.
Throttle position sensor out of range??? - Ford Mustang Forum
TPS Range/Engine Load - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum
It's why I'm not tuning it. Don't know enough about ford quirks.
I guess it isn't to far off. It is mentioned that at idle the actual volts are around 1v. Still higher then you normally see but at least closer to half a volt than what 20% sounds like.
No wonder fords get such lousy mileage!
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
This site explains it a little more.
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=110920
I guess it's a 1V to 5V setup. At idle it's 1 volt which is 20%.
From what I can tell the TPS is checked by PCM upon start up and it (PCM)has a "floating" zero. The PCM assigns the initial value to zero. Supposed to compensate for variations in cold and hot starts.
Still I cut my teeth tuning a turbo 2.0L Eagle Talong AWD. TPS was supposed to be zero or something was wrong. I would have tinkered for days(on my excursion ) trying to get a zero reading and probably messed something up.
It only cost $150 to have a professional tune, so we will see how it works.
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=110920
I guess it's a 1V to 5V setup. At idle it's 1 volt which is 20%.
From what I can tell the TPS is checked by PCM upon start up and it (PCM)has a "floating" zero. The PCM assigns the initial value to zero. Supposed to compensate for variations in cold and hot starts.
Still I cut my teeth tuning a turbo 2.0L Eagle Talong AWD. TPS was supposed to be zero or something was wrong. I would have tinkered for days(on my excursion ) trying to get a zero reading and probably messed something up.
It only cost $150 to have a professional tune, so we will see how it works.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Project will be delayed some more.
OEM MAF is not quite big enough, had to order a MAF from a 5.4 Lightning 90mm vs stock 80mm.
Also have to do a IAT relocation to make it a Air Temp Sensor in intake manifold.
So using a Lightning MAF that does not have an integral IAT sensor, and adding a external IAT sensor in manifold.
Better this way because PCM will have accurate charge temps. Tuner can tune out any added temp the PCM incorporateS due to OEM IAT being in air filter housing.
OEM MAF is not quite big enough, had to order a MAF from a 5.4 Lightning 90mm vs stock 80mm.
Also have to do a IAT relocation to make it a Air Temp Sensor in intake manifold.
So using a Lightning MAF that does not have an integral IAT sensor, and adding a external IAT sensor in manifold.
Better this way because PCM will have accurate charge temps. Tuner can tune out any added temp the PCM incorporateS due to OEM IAT being in air filter housing.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Well during tuning the supercharger the SCT logging software picked up some knock.
Idle log had almost 4 counts.
Free rev log had 11 counts.
Loaded log no boost had 17 counts.
Never even got to do a boost log. Tuner said STFT should be no more than 5% off bank to bank and I had 5 to 6% at times. He said something might be wrong.
Long story short knock above 2500 rpm which my ex rarely sees.
The bad...cylinder #1 only has 40psi compression while running. I'm hoping it's a follower or lifter.
Motor uses ZERO oil in over 5000 miles, does not smoke and has ZERO blow by.
Valve cover coming off today, with hopes it's a easy fix.
Tried 3 different plugs, 3 different coils and 2 different injectors..knock always present above 2500 rpm. Pull injector connector to kill #1 and knock disappears at all rpm.
If it's not an easy fix I may just kill #1 and have a V9, don't know yet.....dang!
Idle log had almost 4 counts.
Free rev log had 11 counts.
Loaded log no boost had 17 counts.
Never even got to do a boost log. Tuner said STFT should be no more than 5% off bank to bank and I had 5 to 6% at times. He said something might be wrong.
Long story short knock above 2500 rpm which my ex rarely sees.
The bad...cylinder #1 only has 40psi compression while running. I'm hoping it's a follower or lifter.
Motor uses ZERO oil in over 5000 miles, does not smoke and has ZERO blow by.
Valve cover coming off today, with hopes it's a easy fix.
Tried 3 different plugs, 3 different coils and 2 different injectors..knock always present above 2500 rpm. Pull injector connector to kill #1 and knock disappears at all rpm.
If it's not an easy fix I may just kill #1 and have a V9, don't know yet.....dang!
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
I took valve cover off and removed follower and lash adjuster. Compressed the lash adjuster and reinstalled.
Seems better. Can't do a normal compression check without removing supercharger and renstalling. Than I would have to remove it again to reinstall plugs after check done than install it again.....would take a day just for a compression check. I wonder what kind of compression an idling motor should have?
Did a WOT pull on a gravel/dirt road. Could not keep rear limited slip from breaking loose so I had to do a WOT pull/data log in 4X4 and broke loose 3 tires in first 20 ft or so.
It pulls hard and has 5 to 7 psi boost....immediate boost not like turbos this thing just grunts and moves.
Can't imagine if all 10 cylinders were at 100% what this thing would do. Wow! Plus this was a data log pull so tuner will adjust some things and I will need to do another pull....it may get better.
Seems better. Can't do a normal compression check without removing supercharger and renstalling. Than I would have to remove it again to reinstall plugs after check done than install it again.....would take a day just for a compression check. I wonder what kind of compression an idling motor should have?
Did a WOT pull on a gravel/dirt road. Could not keep rear limited slip from breaking loose so I had to do a WOT pull/data log in 4X4 and broke loose 3 tires in first 20 ft or so.
It pulls hard and has 5 to 7 psi boost....immediate boost not like turbos this thing just grunts and moves.
Can't imagine if all 10 cylinders were at 100% what this thing would do. Wow! Plus this was a data log pull so tuner will adjust some things and I will need to do another pull....it may get better.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 3
From: NYC
Tough break on the compression numbers...
Either way sounds like you're determined to make it run right.
Either way sounds like you're determined to make it run right.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Don't know how to post a video, is it easy?
Want one of knock with #1 hooked up and one of no knock with #1 hooked up?
Leaning toward rod knock....but the surgery needed to remove oil pan is extensive. Can't understand why it only knocks above 2500.
Not sure my compression #s mean much...motor was idling.
Want one of knock with #1 hooked up and one of no knock with #1 hooked up?
Leaning toward rod knock....but the surgery needed to remove oil pan is extensive. Can't understand why it only knocks above 2500.
Not sure my compression #s mean much...motor was idling.
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
You're sure it's not a crank bearing knock?
When you stab the throttle, does it slap/knock then go away as the RPM's drop?
Stewart
When you stab the throttle, does it slap/knock then go away as the RPM's drop?
Stewart
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
A rod knock is always loudest on a cold start up and generally knocks when the cylinder fires. Many times it can be quieted by unplugging the spark plug wire (coil in this case). A main knock will knock all the time and is a dull thud. Post a video of the sound, maybe it'll help us diagnose it.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
Spent some time on it today.
My compression tester is crap but after an hour of fixing it I disconnected fuse 112 fuel pump and installed compression tester.
Had to leave all plugs in, too hard to remove all with supercharger on.
Cylinder 1 climbed to 120 psi.....with a leaky tester which drained to 60 psi in 5 seconds. So I'm happy with compression test. 120 psi at 8000 feet with all plugs in and a leaky tester is good in my book.
I don't know how to post a video. I will if someone tells me how.
Only time it knocks is above 2300 or so rpm.
Does not knock at any rpm if I pull #1 injector clip.
It tends not to knock cold....but I rarely rev to 2300 on cold start.
Idiot gauge for oil pressure shows 3/4 up or better.
Don't know what main bearing slap is so I don't know if killing #1 would make it stop.
I'm leaning toward rod issue.
My compression tester is crap but after an hour of fixing it I disconnected fuse 112 fuel pump and installed compression tester.
Had to leave all plugs in, too hard to remove all with supercharger on.
Cylinder 1 climbed to 120 psi.....with a leaky tester which drained to 60 psi in 5 seconds. So I'm happy with compression test. 120 psi at 8000 feet with all plugs in and a leaky tester is good in my book.
I don't know how to post a video. I will if someone tells me how.
Only time it knocks is above 2300 or so rpm.
Does not knock at any rpm if I pull #1 injector clip.
It tends not to knock cold....but I rarely rev to 2300 on cold start.
Idiot gauge for oil pressure shows 3/4 up or better.
Don't know what main bearing slap is so I don't know if killing #1 would make it stop.
I'm leaning toward rod issue.
Thread Starter
|
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
It will idle forever with no knock at all.
I am hoping here but using my stethoscope the knock seems loudest on block valley area just above water pump. Maybe water pump or alternator. I notice at about 2300 rpm my heater hoses tend to pulsate indicating load on water pump. I have no idea if disconnecting #1 would quiet water pump....probably not but I can hope. It is a easier fix than a rod bearing.