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obd1 codes found

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Old Mar 11, 2016 | 10:34 AM
  #91  
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Hey guys just wanted to ask how could just one pin on the PCM harness, that being pin 33 be spread out farther or dirtier than the rest of the pins? Not that i doubt what anyone is saying, because almost everyone if not everyone one here knows more about this stuff than I. Believe me! I mean the I never had those codes b4 that, im aware of. And the EGR used to work, anymore ideas, on this? Im sure you guys are about sick of me by now! Or not lol but I appreciate all help! And knowledge on this! Thanks again TO ALL OF YOU!!!!!!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 12:26 PM
  #92  
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I'm not sure what you're asking? Are you wanting to bend the pin back in?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 12:48 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
I'm not sure what you're asking? Are you wanting to bend the pin back in?
danr1 suggested that i do one last test and pull the PCM and check for an open circuit at pin 33 inside the casing while its hooked up under the hood to the PCM harness, to make sure its the PCM thats not working the EVR solenoid which is understandable! Making sure that the green wire, on the harness side isn't spread apart etc. so i was just wandering why would only 1 wire connector inside the harness be spread out to make connection and none of the others, in the harness. Are and working? Hope that makes better sense? But i understand that its better to ve safe than sorry and check everything, possible!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 12:59 PM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by scrobbie
check everything, possible!
That is the most profound statement you have made during this entire saga. You have been given expert advice from some of the best on this forum. Stop questioning "how come or how could it".

Go check

I mean that sincerely and not as a snipe or questioning your character.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 01:06 PM
  #95  
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Also why im here on this thread to keep from starting another im also getting ready to replace the master cylinder! Soon as it stops raining! Don't want any moisture in the sytem! But i noticed after i bought the new, MC the rear port on the new one is huge! Then i didn't realise on the old one there is a adapter or something on the rear port! What is this called? And can u buy one from the parts store, or no? And how did any of you bench bleed the MC without losing fluid in the brake lines, while you did it? Thanks guys
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 01:16 PM
  #96  
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Originally Posted by scrobbie
Also why im here on this thread to keep from starting another im also getting ready to replace the master cylinder! Soon as it stops raining! Don't want any moisture in the sytem! But i noticed after i bought the new, MC the rear port on the new one is huge! Then i didn't realise on the old one there is a adapter or something on the rear port! What is this called? And can u buy one from the parts store, or no?
You take the adapter out of the old MC before returning it.


Originally Posted by scrobbie
And how did any of you bench bleed the MC without losing fluid in the brake lines, while you did it? Thanks guys
I have a kit similar to this:


Bench bleeding is intended to get all the air out of the master cylinder before installing it on the vehicle. Once you install it in the vehicle and connect lines, you go through a similar procedure to remove the air from the lines/calipers/wheel cylinders.

Think of it as priming the pump.....
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 01:23 PM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by rla2005
That is the most profound statement you have made during this entire saga. You have been given expert advice from some of the best on this forum. Stop questioning "how come or how could it".

Go check

I mean that sincerely and not as a snipe or questioning your character.
No biggie man i appreciate all advice and all of you are here are great help!! Even if it doesn't seem like it on my end!!!! Its just that darn rubber seal around the PCM is such a pain to make sure i get it back on right! So no leaks but i have to replace it or what ever so u dont guess it matters either way. And i didn't think anything about what you said at all or anyone else. I just thought all the tests were done, and all of us here had it figured out. And i would rather have it be the PCM, than take the red part out of the conector to fix the green wire. As silly as that sounds! But I do appreciate everyone's knowledge and help!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks again i will try that soon as i can but i get that MC fixed first now because the truck does run at least.
I hope i didn't offend anyone here please dont take it that way!!!!!!!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 01:24 PM
  #98  
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Thanks again to all of you!!!!!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 01:31 PM
  #99  
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From: Independence
Originally Posted by rla2005
You take the adapter out of the old MC before returning it.




I have a kit similar to this:


Bench bleeding is intended to get all the air out of the master cylinder before installing it on the vehicle. Once you install it in the vehicle and connect lines, you go through a similar procedure to remove the air from the lines/calipers/wheel cylinders.

Think of it as priming the pump.....
I bought one like that myself. And it came with one too but how did you block the brake lines in your rig while you bench bled, your MC I have to have the adapter in my new MC to bench bleed it so the tube fittings fit in the ports..... and i dont have a core on mine thanks rla2005
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 01:42 PM
  #100  
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Also does anyone have faith in gravity bleeding when your by yourself or do not have a vac pump/bleeder tool thanks again to all!!!!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2016 | 02:18 PM
  #101  
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Also when i do pull the PCM to check the green wire when its plugged in what if i accidentally touched the wrong bar on the PCM is it possible to fry or hurt something else, in the process? That's one thing that scares me honestly
 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 11:45 AM
  #102  
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Hey guys im really nervous about taking that pcm harness apart! I can say that honestly! Although i haven't looked at it yet, b4 i get to it and when and if i do have to take it apart, because the wire is spread apart or something? What can u expect when and if i pull that red pc out of the pcm harness? Because i don't want to mess anything else up, on top of everything else that has gone wrong! Thanks for the help and replies!!!!!!
 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 12:31 PM
  #103  
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I had a 1995 F150 that always came back with a knock sensor code until I swapped the PCM out. Then it never got the code after that.
Just a thought.

If that pin is spread (not likely) you should be able to see it by looking at the plugs pins and comparing that pin to the others. If you have stuck something in the pin hole to check the circuit then yes you may have a spread pin. I use a BOB to avoid that from happening. A pushed back pin is also very likely if you have had the plug off and on a few times. But you should be able to see that also.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2016 | 12:50 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by subford
I had a 1995 F150 that always came back with a knock sensor code until I swapped the PCM out. Then it never got the code after that.
Just a thought.

If that pin is spread (not likely) you should be able to see it by looking at the plugs pins and comparing that pin to the others. If you have stuck something in the pin hole to check the circuit then yes you may have a spread pin. I use a BOB to avoid that from happening. A pushed back pin is also very likely if you have had the plug off and on a few times. But you should be able to see that also.
maybe i spread it apart or pushed it back when i checked it with my meter for continuity? Do you think the probes on the meter are bigger than the pin in the pcm? Maybe i messed it up myself i hope not! But i guess i wont know til i try looking at it thanks subford!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2016 | 07:55 PM
  #105  
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Ok guys got the MC on brakes bled and of course new pads. Also had to replace the brake hose on the right side i will work on the PCM or just block off the EGR soon! Its gonna get rainy and chilly in missouri or supposed to any way! Thanks for the help!!! One and all!!!!!!!
 
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