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As previously stated blocking off the egr passage won't hurt a thing, no one here would intentionally tell you to do something that would or might cause damage.
The egr valve on my 94 had been blocked off for the last few years it was in service, the system is intact valve is active as far as it opens and closes as it should but the tube from the exhaust manifold to it had been removed ports for it plugged.
End result is no check engine light no trouble codes, the computer thinks it is working but its not, it made no difference whatsoever in how the trucks runs nor suffered any loss in fuel economy.
I did so to eliminate the possibly of an exhaust leak in an aging snowplow truck.
You'd still have the check engine light but that'd be the only difference.
And how do i check to see if its open on pin 33 when i open it and is it marked on the PCM inside to show which one is pin 33 thanks again danr1! For the info!
No not marked on the inside but easy to figure out which one is for pin 33 on the inside just by looking.
Red arrows point to the bars connecting each pin on the connector side down to the computers board. (Note one of those bars in this image is burn all the way through)
locate pin 33 on the connector side then find its connecting bar on the inside, test for continuity from the EVR green wire to that bar inside the case with the main harness plugged in.
If you have continuity they ya computer problems, if you don't find out why.
Pin is dirty or the wire end connector is spread out so its a loose fit, you can remove the individual wires from the main harness connector if necessary by removing the red part from it. (see link below)
If you need to work on that wire connector, or replace it.
Ok i didnt think anyone would per say ive just heard that from others online and individuals say it would! I know no one is trying to say that on purpose to kill my truck lol and my engine light isnt even on, it was just running like doo doo so i checked for codes and thats what i got and those, others. I mentioned. But those seem to be gone! Also my timing is at 12 degrees Btdc should i go back to 10, if the EGR, goes away! Also if i do delete the EGR I have to block off the tube and the hole in the, intake, right? What did u use to do this? Thanks again subford and all others helping me!!!!!!
No not marked on the inside but easy to figure out which one is for pin 33 on the inside just by looking.
Red arrows point to the bars connecting each pin on the connector side down to the computers board. (Note one of those bars in this image is burn all the way through)
locate pin 33 on the connector side then find its connecting bar on the inside, test for continuity from the EVR green wire to that bar inside the case with the main harness plugged in.
If you have continuity they ya computer problems, if you don't find out why.
Pin is dirty or the wire end connector is spread out so its a loose fit, you can remove the individual wires from the main harness connector if necessary by removing the red part from it. (see link below)
If you need to work on that wire connector, or replace it.
I have seen that pic of the PCM harness matter of fact i have it printed in a binder from that website. If i check that, do i hook it up inside the cab, i guess or under the hood? Thanks
If I did the test I'd pull the computer out of its pocket then plug it in under the hood with its cover off where I could get to it easy.
Test using section of wire with a small alligator clip at each end to make the connection inside the computer to one meter probe.
Freeing up my hands to make an easy connection at the other end of the circuit with the meters second probe at the EVR connector.
A "helper" around here can prove to be hard to find when need one for a minute!
Amen to that all i got most of the time is my wife but she does no a few things though, lol i may end up just blocking it off though not a 100% sure about 90 maybe 80 to 85%! It's that rubber seal around the pcm is such a pain do to its age, to pull it out check all that and put it back in lol not saying I wouldnt though! Besides b4 i go any further my brake pedal is slowly going to the floor, with no leaks at any of the wheels so I think my master cylinder is slowly going out so i better get brakes first you think?
Computer says it doesn't open via the EVP, you could prove that if you felt it necessary.
If it's not functioning due to a computer problem then really no reason to block it off.
Remaining closed all the time won't hurt anything, opening then staying open when it shouldn't be would be a bad thing.
If you block it off do so 100%, doing some percentage of that is a waste of time does nothing for you.
If you think your master cylinder is the problem you can easily prove or disprove it. Disconnect both brake lines from it then solid plug the line ports. If after doing so the pedal is solid little to no travel, the master cylinder is fine the problem exists down stream of it.
If the pedal sinks to the floor with the line ports plugged, little or no pressure, the master cylinder is the problem. or chance the level dropped to low for whatever reason ("to low" read as "empty"), so it requires bench bled again and before the rest of the system is reconnected and then bled.
[QUOTE=danr1;16115636]Computer says it doesn't open via the EVP, you could prove that if you felt it necessary.
If it's not functioning due to a computer problem then really no reason to block it off.
Remaining closed all the time won't hurt anything, opening then staying open when it shouldn't be would be a bad thing.
If you block it off do so 100%, doing some percentage of that is a waste of time does nothing for you.
If you think your master cylinder is the problem you can easily prove or disprove it. Disconnect both brake lines from it then solid plug the line ports. If after doing so the pedal is solid little to no travel, the master cylinder is fine the problem exists down stream of it.
If the pedal sinks to the floor with the line ports plugged, little or no pressure, the master cylinder is the problem. or chance the level dropped to low for whatever reason ("to low" read as "empty"), so it requires bench bled again and before the rest of the system is reconnected and then bled.[/QUOTEok right now it sinks to the floor when you step on the brake with the lines hooked up to it and engine is running and ive already replaced the booster due to a leaking diaphragm
Computer says it doesn't open via the EVP, you could prove that if you felt it necessary.
If it's not functioning due to a computer problem then really no reason to block it off.
Remaining closed all the time won't hurt anything, opening then staying open when it shouldn't be would be a bad thing.
If you block it off do so 100%, doing some percentage of that is a waste of time does nothing for you.
If you think your master cylinder is the problem you can easily prove or disprove it. Disconnect both brake lines from it then solid plug the line ports. If after doing so the pedal is solid little to no travel, the master cylinder is fine the problem exists down stream of it.
If the pedal sinks to the floor with the line ports plugged, little or no pressure, the master cylinder is the problem. or chance the level dropped to low for whatever reason ("to low" read as "empty"), so it requires bench bled again and before the rest of the system is reconnected and then bled.[/QUOTEok right now it sinks to the floor when you step on the brake with the lines hooked up to it and engine is running and ive already replaced the booster due to a leaking diaphragm
To check the master cylinder by plugging the ports on it what should i plug it with? A pipe plug of sorts or something else Thanks to all for helping me through this whole ordeal! I hope to get it one of these days!!
To check the master cylinder by plugging the ports on it what should i plug it with? A pipe plug of sorts or something else Thanks to all for helping me through this whole ordeal! I hope to get it one of these days!!
You can buy plugs at the auto parts to plug those ports.
Nope, don't use pipe plugs as they would damage the master cylinder.
You mentioned you checked continuity of the EVR solenoid wire to the PCM, but have you checked if the resistance of the EVR solenoid itself? It may have gone open circuit.
Apologies if you've already done that, and I missed it.
You mentioned you checked continuity of the EVR solenoid wire to the PCM, but have you checked if the resistance of the EVR solenoid itself? It may have gone open circuit.
Apologies if you've already done that, and I missed it.
i replaced the EVR solenoid when i first saw the codes unfortunately i took the gambling route on that one it didnt work! But it did when i replaced the o2 sensor welded up the exhaust due to some leaks, and holes! Not good i know! And finished the smog pump delete! Those are the only DTC codes i have left! So now i haven't decided whether to just delete the EGR or perform that 1 last test that danr1 mentioned! But no need to apologize man! I appreciate all help I can get! I just wished I had no codes and everything was working. By now with all ive done!
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