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obd1 codes found

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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 10:25 AM
  #46  
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From: Independence
Originally Posted by scrobbie
also which pin on the harness do i use to check voltage? Thanks one and all
sorry guys dont mean to jump all over the place but to clear the CM codes do i unplug the jumper wire as soon as it starts to flash period? Or do i wait until, it starts to flash the actual codes? And does it matter which side I unplug the jumper wire from? I know this probably sounds stupid, just wanna make sure it's done right. Also should the engine be warm when i do it or no? and it's KOEO right? Thanks guys!!!!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 12:08 PM
  #47  
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Ok guys i ran a KOEO DTC this is what it read exactly 83,84 then pause then it repeated code 33,33 any ideas? Thanks!!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 12:54 PM
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DTC 83 (KOEO): EGR Control solenoid circuit failure.
DTC 84 (KOEO): EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure.

Code 33 (CM): EGR valve opening not detected.

Code 33 is a symptom of codes 83 and 84. Both indicate the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) is not electrically connected to the computer (PCM). Could be open wires or the EVR solenoid is open.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 12:56 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by scrobbie
Also guys i wanted to ask how do i check the air charge temperature sensor?
Best way is with a Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVM) set to resistance.

Some very good information here: Air Charge Temperature
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 01:17 PM
  #50  
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From: Independence
Originally Posted by rla2005
DTC 83 (KOEO): EGR Control solenoid circuit failure.
DTC 84 (KOEO): EGR Vacuum Solenoid circuit failure.

Code 33 (CM): EGR valve opening not detected.

Code 33 is a symptom of codes 83 and 84. Both indicate the EGR Vacuum Regulator (EVR) is not electrically connected to the computer (PCM). Could be open wires or the EVR solenoid is open.
Ok so if the green wire has continuity and the red wire has 12v going to it, should i suspect the pcm is bad or something internal is fried that has to do with the egr solenoid etc? The EVR solenoid is brand new. If i ground the solenoid to battery the truck stalls or dies. I can at least tell you that for sure! Thanks rla2005!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 01:44 PM
  #51  
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From: Easton,Ks
Sounds like an open green wire between the EVR solenoid and the Computer or an open switching to ground part (transistor) in the computer.

Also make sure the small black wire with a green stripe has a good ground at the NEG post of the battery.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 01:50 PM
  #52  
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From: Independence
Originally Posted by subford
Sounds like an open green wire between the EVR solenoid and the Computer or an open switching to ground part (transistor) in the computer.

Also make sure the small black wire with a green stripe has a good ground at the NEG post of the battery.
ok i will check the wire at the battery neg. post for sure. How would i check the other? Thanks subford for the info on that!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 02:41 PM
  #53  
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Should I just delete the EGR valve ive heard its not a good idea but some say you can! Only if i cant figure out whats going on with it! What do any of you think? Just want some honest opinions on this with folks that have more experience than me! Way more oh no emissions test here. And since the Air injection is deleted any way. Thanks again!
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 02:52 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by burnse
Sounds similar to a problem I have on occasion. I'll turn key on, everything is good, turn to start, nothing...no click, nothing. Tried to jump-start it, nothing.
There is a contact in the starter relay circuit that closes when the automatic is in 'Park' or 'Neutral'. By jiggling the gear shift or going to N, I was able to start it.
I hope this helps...
...Also, back in the old days, the ACC (accessory) position in the ignition switch was always left of OFF, so the order was (left to right) ACC, OFF, RUN, START...
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 03:30 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by scrobbie
Should I just delete the EGR valve ive heard its not a good idea but some say you can! Only if i cant figure out whats going on with it! What do any of you think? Just want some honest opinions on this with folks that have more experience than me! Way more oh no emissions test here. And since the Air injection is deleted any way. Thanks again!
Whether or not the air injection system is in place or not has no bearing on whether or not you should/can delete the EGR system. While it is possible, I suggest to keep it. Trying to use a resistor to fool the computer has mixed results. You may still end up with a Check Engine Light (Code 33).
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 03:41 PM
  #56  
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From: Independence
Originally Posted by rla2005
Whether or not the air injection system is in place or not has no bearing on whether or not you should/can delete the EGR system. While it is possible, I suggest to keep it. Trying to use a resistor to fool the computer has mixed results. You may still end up with a Check Engine Light (Code 33).
So should i try getting a used pcm to see if that helps i think i can get one locally for around 50 bucks and should i test the green wire to the EVR solenoid for continuity? I did check the wires at the battery - side post seemed to be ok there like subford suggested.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 04:16 PM
  #57  
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No sense spending money on a used computer yet. Use a meter to ohm out the green wire at the EVR back to the computer plug on Pin 33.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 04:29 PM
  #58  
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I don't know...my truck runs good with all that stuff. Are you trying to eliminate all the emissions stuff? I understand if you are, but for me, I'm not nearly as mechanically inclined that is needed to get all that stuff out and have the truck running good. I would just assume buy an older truck without a lot of it. The older truck you get, the less emission and smog stuff to deal with...if that's what you're trying to do...
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 05:30 PM
  #59  
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From: Independence
Originally Posted by rla2005
No sense spending money on a used computer yet. Use a meter to ohm out the green wire at the EVR back to the computer plug on Pin 33.
ok will check that I've done it a long while back with good results at that time maybe something happened since
 
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Old Mar 9, 2016 | 05:38 PM
  #60  
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From: Independence
Originally Posted by burnse
I don't know...my truck runs good with all that stuff. Are you trying to eliminate all the emissions stuff? I understand if you are, but for me, I'm not nearly as mechanically inclined that is needed to get all that stuff out and have the truck running good. I would just assume buy an older truck without a lot of it. The older truck you get, the less emission and smog stuff to deal with...if that's what you're trying to do...
Dont really want to delete it per say. Just getting certain Egr codes that's saying its not working! And im getting kinda tired of, chasing stuff this and that. So Im kinda just going with get rid of it, so i dont have to deal with it! But if it will do more harm than good, i guess i will try to fix it! I hope thanks guys!!!
 
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