So Tomorrow I will check the green wire from the EVR solenoid if it has continuity then i will replace the PCM is that what you guys would do? Thanks folks

 

In case I have to buy a new PCM or a used 1 which number do i use? Here is all the numbers on mine:
8PV
EFI-SD20b 32K PROM G
E8TF-12A650 F2A
6EC2830F04 9592-269 I googled the one earlier beginnig with the e8tf and i saw some used but looking some of the ones from the part stores i can't find any of there numbers matching exactly. So if i have to get one from a part store how would i know im getting the correct PCM for my truck? But like i said i did find some used ones online! Thanks again to all of you and god bless!

 

You use the E8TF-12A650-F2A but it can also be listed as E8TF-F2A.
The 12A650 is the base number of all of the PCM Computers and a lot of places leave it out.

The 8PV is the program that is burned into a chip inside the computer. But auto supply outlets do not use the this program code.

The Ford part numbers for your computer are E7TZ-12A650-AUB and E8TZ-12A650-FA.
But this is not the number on the computer as only Ford dealers parts department goes by the part number.
The drawing number that is on the unit would be E7TF-12A650-AUB and E8TF-12A650-FA.
Most drop the base part number of 12A650 as all Ford computers have the base number in them.
So you are looking for a computer at an auto part store or on line with a number of E7TF-AUB or a E8TF-FA.
At a salvage yard a E7TF-12A650-AUB or a E8TF-12A650-FA as they go by the number on the unit.





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But just out of curiosity, so if the green wire checks ok my computer in my truck could all be good except the part of it that controls the the EGR and the EVR solenoid, basically? Thanks subford for that.

 

Ok this is one i found at Autozone its with automatic transmission and federal emissions the oem# on this 1 is: e8tf-fa would this one work? I have a 5.0 and a AOD TRANS. Thanks

 

Yes that one will work.

 

ok the green wire to pin 33 off the EVR solenoid has good cotinuity to it my dvm beeped every time forgot to give the ohm reading though but it has continuity though so would you go with a PCM? or is there something else i could check I'm running out of ideas thanks subford!

 

I would block off the EGR and live with the code. But I do have spare PCM Computers for all of my trucks so I would sub it out before swapping it out.

It does sound like you have did all of the test for it.
Battery voltage on the red wire with the key on.
New EGR solenoid.
Grounded the green wire and the EGR valve opened.
Check the green wire all the way to its pin at the PCM plug and checked to see if its pin was pushed out.
Checked the PCM ground wire at the NEG post of the battery.

That only leaves the PCM Computer.

 

but wont that damage the engine if i block off the egr valve? And it will still run even if that's the only part of the pcm that's bad? Just asking thanks subford!

 

No it wont damage the engine and yes it will still run OK if that is the only thing wrong with the PCM.

 

I thought it would cause detonation in the engine? If you u remove the EGR thanks subford

 

The fact it throws KOEO codes 83 and 84 suggests the computer is working, its not sensing any resistance on pin 33 so throws those codes. KOEO its a simple test for connection/control, attempt to click the solenoid once or twice then move to the next one in the test report if it worked or not on that same pin.

Not sure how deep it goes into one but if that aspect in the computer had died, the EVR driver circuits? it would stand to reason it'd throw KOEO code "33" as the valve didn't move as sensed on pin 27, EVP driver still functioning, but wouldn't report anything for pin 33 at all.

You tested the wire and its good, shows solid continuity between the EVR and pin 33 at the computer main harness connector.

Are you positive its making positive contact with the computers pin 33 when the main harness connector is plugged into it?

I'd pull the cover off, test for continuity inside the case for pin 33 while the EEC harness connector is in place. Test from the EVR harness connector to pin 33 inside the case, if tests "open" you've found the problem.

If not then yea points to the computer as the sole cause of that problem, if that was the case I'd repair or replace the computer. If that part died? what else has issues now and or how long until it does suffer larger issues over the EVR driver?

 

Im pretty positive that its making connection when its connected to the PCM im just about ready to just block off the EGR off leave it connected and live with it! Not sure yet it's not working any way to my knowledge at least just tired of chasing wires on all this other stuff, it runs ok when i drive it! Or seems to any way. And i dont really know how to see if its open when it is plugged in to the PCM. But i really dont want to damage my engine if thats the case? By blocking off the EGR either, for its my only vehicle right now! Kinda stuck between a rock and a hard place! You know thanks danr1

 

And how do i check to see if its open on pin 33 when i open it and is it marked on the PCM inside to show which one is pin 33 thanks again danr1! For the info!

 

No it is not marked on the inside as far as pin numbers.
Under normal conditions the EGR is closed (blocked off) at idle and wide open throttle (accelerating).
The only time the EGR valve is open is with a warm engine at mid throttle at highway speed.