Ok guys I bought 2001 f250 super duty from a dealer. Stole it I might say! I put a turbo on it and she purrs like a kitten now! Ok well it has a 6 position chip in it and I have no paper work on it. I don't know the settings, I don't no and warnings, don't do's and stay away from's! Is these chips safe on a bone stock truck?

 

We have no way to know where those tunes came from or how they are treating your vehicle. The only way we could know is with data and a few questions about shifts and tail pipe discharge.

On the data side: EGT gauge is a must with our aging trucks to deal with tunes and possible malfunctions - I have two (one on each manifold). Fuel pressure gauge has proven to be a huge help with our Jurassic engines, particularly with our fuel delivery issues before the fuel pump. Aside from those two (or three) add-on gauges, everything else you want to know is on the OBDII port, waiting for you to tap into it with an OBDII adapter and a smart phone, tablet, or laptop app. There is an OBDII link with plenty of information in my signature.

 

Ok things just got out of my league! I was raised , if it's not broke don't fix it. So I've never done mods or tuners or chips to any of my vehicles. This is all new territory to me. I do know that I bought a truck with lots of upgrades that had a turbo that was F-ED up.

 

If you'd rather keep it simple, then pull the chip. However... this is a turbodiesel with 15 years on the soft parts and however many miles on the hard parts. This will not stay simple when you eventually have a strange feel, sight, smell, or sound - or a strange "nothing happens" when you turn the key. I'm not saying the truck is not worth its weight - these are sought-out vehicles because of their capabilities when 100%. Going to a newer turbodiesel has not always panned out for the owners in either the cost factor or the reliability factor - or both.

It's a fantastic platform to leave as-is, or to ramp it up - but knowing how things are doing in there is a good way to now when it's hurting before things get expensive. Some tenets have been building here on the forum for years now:

• Get the truck to 100% before you chip or tune.
• Know how the truck is responding to any upgrades (like a chip or tune).
• When things act up, get it the tuning back to stock (remove chip or reprogram to stock) to sort it out.

Since the truck lost a turbo, this raises one eyebrow: Was it dusted, or was this a modification fail? Do you know what air intake you have? If not, sharing a picture here will get a quick answer.

 

Can you elaborate more on this 6 position chip? Maybe even a picture. We maybe able to narrow things down for you. If we can figure out who's tuner it is you may be able to get into contact with the manufacturer with your vin number and figure out what's on it.... With some luck of course.

 

He started a thread a couple of weeks ago about this truck. He definitely got a deal on on it. Here is the back story if you want to get up to speed.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...werstroke.html

 

Quick back ground.....Not a noobie diesel owner, have owned 1986 6.9, 1989 and 90 7.3 NA's , 97 powerstroke (sold it with 300k and it now has 400k on it) and now a 01. I hand built a 1988 Jeep Wrangler with a Nissan sd33 turbo diesel and then a few years later swapped it with a cummins 4bt. Owned 2 Toyota diesel pickups and half dozen VW diesels. Never modded or hopped up any of them. Now this 2001 I snagged from a dealer . It has 212k on it. I was in the market to replace my plow truck and couldn't pass up this deal. I basically bought it for a toy and tow my boat. The wife loves it and can't wait to drive it! How about that. And she doesn't mind me throwing money at it. Can't argue with that.

Staying safe and pulling the chip it is a sure thing. This truck has the banks down pipe with the exhaust valve delete. It's got a K&N filter and tube kit. (Not a drop in filter) it mounts with a hose clamp. It's got the A pillar gauge pods with Egt/ boost/ trans temp gauges. The turbo that was on it looked to be fairly new on the cold side. My suspicion was someone F-ed up rebuilding the turbo and the shaft broke in the center and the exhaust wheel went down the exhaust. May had been a botched wicked wheel upgrade! And it has this chip and **** installed. So is far left stock position and far right 140 position? Cause the engine goes to high idle on the far right position. But what I can find on the inerwebs is the second position should be high idle cold warm up. The engine it self sounds like a sewing machine. 2 mechanics (crane mechanics) from work said that she is the smoothest sounding 7.3 they ever heard. I went thru paper work and tries to get a hold of previous 2 owners and no answer. But last time issued was in 2013 and it had 179k miles on it then.
My main concern was with a stock turbo do I stand to damage it with this tuner installed. But now I know that people can get crazy with these chips(if this ones juiced up) something could happen. I just want her to be trust worthy. Thanks for your input.

 

Thanks for the bump!

 

I'll snag a few pictures when I get home!

 

Not knowing what kind of or who's 6 position switch it is leaves all interpretation of the tunes on it in the wind. "Usually" that's how most switches work. The lowest setting is to the left the highest is to the right but... There's so many different options of tunes that there's no way to tell what tune it is. You can guess based on the amount of black smoke that comes out of the tail pipe if it's a higher hp tune or not. 140 is just a random number that no stock injected truck will truly see...
I ran my 7.3 with a van turbo on 140 quite often, once you hit, let's say 28ish psi the turbo is out of its map anyways and you're just chopping air and creating excessive heat. Roll with it....
To elaborate on the van turbo i ran before you ask. It's a stock turbo off of a van... Hence the name. The 7.3 in a van didn't leave enough room for an intercooler so what happened is they used the same turbo from a truck except no waste gate and a 1.15 A/R exhaust housing to keep egts in check.

Gauge warnings. EGTs, stay below 1200-1250 degrees, a quick burst to 1600 isn't going to end the world. You're worried about heat soak. Think of waving your hand over a lit candle. It doesn't hurt if you don't hold your hand there.... Same concept.
Trans.... 220 and I maybe wrong
Boost... Like I said above 28ish and you're chopping air.

Now this is where I fall in line with tugly... Get something to see what the truck is doing and saying. Yes listed plenty of options and it can be Extremely Valuable! The only three things you can't see through the OBDII port is EGT, coolant and fuel pressure

Hopefully this helps a bit

 

Wow good stuff there! Thanks, had my buddy bring over his $10000 snap on scanner. I had 3 codes. One was the exhaust valve delete and a ABS code and air bag( clock spring) so this same scanner can tell what the chip does to the engine? I'd say I'll pull it and get the numbers off it and call the manufacture...... I can say from far left position to center position. Boy that turbo sounds alive when you step on it in park. I took it down the road the other night just to feel her out. But haven't got the tags on it yet. She's um getting inspected today!

 

That shouldn't have a problem looking at everything you need to see. Look up "torque pro" by tugly he has a full list of paramaters once you get that far into it.
Once he's done looking at your truck send him my way, I need something I can't do with a regular scanner

 

sounds to me like the standard T-S 6 position chip I have with 1-6 being 1-stock
2-50hp
3-75hp
4-100hp
5-140hp
6-high idle
it came with a potentiometer style ****....but who knows if they had someone write tunes on it from there...

 

Thanks for that info, that sounds like what I have. The high idle is the last position on mine. Thanks