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I have now replaced hpop, injectors, cups, gpr, batteries, uvch on both sides, icp and ipr on my 2002 F550 and it still has a long crank to start.
It has been driven about 1,000 miles since then and no change. I have no codes except buzz test produced a high to low 1272 1274 1276 1278 one time. Cannot get that to happen again.
It is taking 4 seconds of cranking to start consistently hot or cold. It aways starts but cranks for what seems like too long compared to my other 7.3s. I have included a screenshot of the data and am curious on what everyones thoughts are as I am out of things to look at!
Maybe try a gear reduction high torque starter? You have done a lot of work to it, and I hope you find a solution to your problem.
It currently has a plgr on it. I would have done that work otherwise luckily. Starts about the same with ICP unplugged too. Shows oil pressure on dash while cranking as well.
It takes a long time to build ICP, even with a high IPR. Since the ICP doesn't "fade" in, but jumps in - I'll guess your HPOP reservoir is draining down, and it has to refill when starting.
It takes a long time to build ICP, even with a high IPR. Since the ICP doesn't "fade" in, but jumps in - I'll guess your HPOP reservoir is draining down, and it has to refill when starting.
Is the check valve servicable or just something I will have to get used to?
I've had 2 slow start issues with my truck. The first one was a bad starter and the other one is low oil level. Once the oil level starts to get towards the bottom of the cross-hatch area the truck cranks longer to start.
Before trying to start and after sitting overnight, you can pull the plug on the top of the HPOP and check the oil level.
I hear about an inch down from the top is normal.
I've also heard of people having the occasional problem with getting the HPOP gears to mesh properly. Might be worth a check.
I agree that it looks like HPOP is delayed, so the fuel injection will be delayed until HPOP comes up, too. Might account for the long crank times.
What kind and weight of oil are you using?
Did you lube the orings on the injectors (new, right?) before installing them? Hoping you didn't tear or roll one when installing.
Oil is mobil 1 5W40 fresh. The orings were oiled before install, although not excessively by any means. I had the valve covers off while running and I didnt see oil leaking from between head and injector body.
I will pull the sensor off the top of the reservoir and have a peek on level when I move it again. If it is empty I will disconnect hpop lines and leave to see which bank is draining or if i need to look at LPOP or check valve
I will pull the sensor off the top of the reservoir and have a peek on level when I move it again. If it is empty I will disconnect hpop lines and leave to see which bank is draining or if i need to look at LPOP or check valve
Sounds like a good plan.
It seems as though it is either slow to get started making pressure on the pump side, or slow to build pressure in the system on the engine side.
The first, obviously, would involve the pump, reservoir, check valve, oil levels, viscosity, pump gear meshing, etc.
The second, could involve lines, seals (orings, etc), also volume of oil available to HPOP, etc.
Are you running a tune? I am not aware that any tunes are delaying initial startup by holding injectors closed until a higher HPO pressure, but suppose it is possible
Heck, you might even have some sludge somewhere. Our rigs are getting a bit older
It seems as though it is either slow to get started making pressure on the pump side, or slow to build pressure in the system on the engine side.
The first, obviously, would involve the pump, reservoir, check valve, oil levels, viscosity, pump gear meshing, etc.
The second, could involve lines, seals (orings, etc), also volume of oil available to HPOP, etc.
Are you running a tune? I am not aware that any tunes are delaying initial startup by holding injectors closed until a higher HPO pressure, but suppose it is possible
Heck, you might even have some sludge somewhere. Our rigs are getting a bit older
So, I went to move the truck and it has sat since. Pulled the oil pressure sensor on the reservoir and the level was about 3/4" from top so it isn't draining back.
I disconnected icp to see if it made a difference and it still took the same amount of time to start whether it was connected or not. Not sure where else to look now as i figured even with a bad lpop, the unplugged icp and full reservoir would make the computer fire the injectors sooner since it wasn't waiting for icp to hit 500psi
It will not fire without the actual 500 PSI ICP. It's not the electrical signal that applies the fuel - it is the oil pressure. The correct Fuel Injector Pulse Width shows how long the oil valve is open in the injector. The Injector Control oil Pressure is the "thumb" that pushes the fuel out of the injectors like a super syringe.
This is HPO related - it's not there at all early in the crank. When air gets in the oil system by way of the HPOP reservoir, the lines, or the rails - ICP builds slowly over several seconds. In your graph, there's zero ICP for several seconds but plenty of IPR signal. Then... it's like the HPOP snaps to and says "Uh? You talkin' to me?" Now that you've confirmed the HPOP reservoir is full, I really suspect your IPR. I think either the little pin in there is stuck, the coil is failing, or that skinny nut on the end is missing to begin with. If the nut is in place, you can remove the IPR, clean it, and see if it rattles when you shake it.
It will not fire without the actual 500 PSI ICP. It's not the electrical signal that applies the fuel - it is the oil pressure. The correct Fuel Injector Pulse Width shows how long the oil valve is open in the injector. The Injector Control oil Pressure is the "thumb" that pushes the fuel out of the injectors like a super syringe.
This is HPO related - it's not there at all early in the crank. When air gets in the oil system by way of the HPOP reservoir, the lines, or the rails - ICP builds slowly over several seconds. In your graph, there's zero ICP for several seconds but plenty of IPR signal. Then... it's like the HPOP snaps to and says "Uh? You talkin' to me?" Now that you've confirmed the HPOP reservoir is full, I really suspect your IPR. I think either the little pin in there is stuck, the coil is failing, or that skinny nut on the end is missing to begin with. If the nut is in place, you can remove the IPR, clean it, and see if it rattles when you shake it.
I had time to work on the truck again and I replaced the cam sensor and it has started normally hot and cold. The plug was full of dirt and oil so that got cleaned but either way it seems like that was at least a contributing factor. Occasionally it will take a fraction of a second longer to fire but nothing near what it used to be.
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