LONG CRANK TIME MOSTLY WARM
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LONG CRANK TIME MOSTLY WARM
Having problem locating issues on starting with long crank time. Glow plugs buzz out ok, relay working fine. Actually cold start in morning starts pretty normal, once it gets warm is when it takes longer cranking time to start. Batteries are new, I replaced starter about 3 years ago with the 2 bolt high speed, it seems to be cranking ok. If I park on a hill, pop the clutch in 2nd, it's fired up immediately, don't think it turns over twice, just can't get it cranking. I was advised that it may be low pressure on the HPOP, just don't make sense with the quick 2nd gear jumpstart. Truck is a early 99 dually 6 speed, mileage....91K. Any advice would be helpful..thanks.
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What's the EBPS and tube, not sure on that one, using Rotella 15-40...about 800 miles on it....I changed oil early hoping that might contribute to the prob...didn't change.
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At 79K cracked fuel rail in a head down in SC...man, did they "fry my chicken"...anyway.. all new under the valve covers..seals oil rings etc....
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From: Western Kentucky
Mine was doing the same thing. After a couple of months of research, I finally put a new HPOP in last week. It runs great and starts great. Just took a while for me to spend the money on a new pump not being sure that was the problem. I put a scanner and watched the injector pressure. It would start cold and be about 3200 but as it warmed, it would slowly start dropping until it was in the 400 range and die. The new pump holds over 3200 all the time.
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Mine was doing the same thing. After a couple of months of research, I finally put a new HPOP in last week. It runs great and starts great. Just took a while for me to spend the money on a new pump not being sure that was the problem. I put a scanner and watched the injector pressure. It would start cold and be about 3200 but as it warmed, it would slowly start dropping until it was in the 400 range and die. The new pump holds over 3200 all the time.
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Post Fiend
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From: Pea Ridge, AR
Before you go throwing a new HPOP you should try to get it properly diagnosed, Usually longer starts with warm oil deals with IPR issues, lots of other possibilities before I would personally replace a HPOP. LPOP issues, weak batteries, other various things. There was a post here about "it's never the HPOP" thats what I usually abide by when trying to diagnose HPOP issues.
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From: Western Kentucky
Before you go throwing a new HPOP you should try to get it properly diagnosed, Usually longer starts with warm oil deals with IPR issues, lots of other possibilities before I would personally replace a HPOP. LPOP issues, weak batteries, other various things. There was a post here about "it's never the HPOP" thats what I usually abide by when trying to diagnose HPOP issues.
I agree. I first put in a LPOP because I had a new high volume low pressure given to me. I also had extra IPR and ICP, so that rules those out. My batteries were both new. I had a scanner to watch the Injection pressure and duty cycle and both were out of the norm. I was still reluctant to put in a HPOP, but that was ultimately my issue.
Mine as 285,000.
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I agree. I first put in a LPOP because I had a new high volume low pressure given to me. I also had extra IPR and ICP, so that rules those out. My batteries were both new. I had a scanner to watch the Injection pressure and duty cycle and both were out of the norm. I was still reluctant to put in a HPOP, but that was ultimately my issue.
Mine as 285,000.
Mine as 285,000.
Cargo Master
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From: Louisiana
Just curious but what do you mean by cracked fuel rail?
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From: Western Kentucky
When mine would quit, it would not start on its own. But, (I know the dangers) if I used a little starting fluid it would fire up. My guess is the motor is turning a little faster therefore causing the pump to turn faster and building pressure quicker.
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Refering to the chamber inside the head that carries the fuel from the extenal line outside to the injectors. In "gas" it's a external fuel rail...I guess with diesel it's internal fuel rail. That casted chamber cracked and the high pressure fuel was going into the coolant system...happened in South Carolina on the way back from Fl.. stealership nightmare and truck will never be the same.
Cargo Master
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From: Louisiana
I think the starter probably only spins the motor at 100 rpm's or so. When you dump the clutch your motor is instantly turning 500-1500 rpm's! Big difference! I would have the icp monitored while cranking! Where are you? Maybe someone close by has an ae can help you out! The brotherhood is good about that!!