Any body put 250 rear leaf springs on a 150. Mine is a 90 150 4x4. I've got a set on a parts truck. And what about a leveling kit. I've seen one on Amazon. basically a set of 2 in blocks to go under the leaf spings.

 

Yup, I believe the only difference is one leaf in the spring setup (at least on my 92). Had a cracked one and found that it was easier to leave the top spring which was connected to the truck to remain attached and take apart the springs, reassemble on the truck. You might need a longer pin for that extra leaf. Mine did not have that extra 1 coil above - but I think that was the 350 series trucks that had that. It stiffened the ride a bit, if you're hauling the weight and need it, and regularly carry a load not a bad idea ......

 

Yeah I might the rear supention on these 150s is mighty week I've been used to 250s and 350s. I was given this 150 and I like it for running to get parts but it squats when I sit on the tail gate. The rest of the truck seems to handle it, but you put some 5 gal buckets of hydraulic oil in the back and it looks like your hauling 2 palettes of mortor mix.

 

I've heard that F-150 springs are narrower than F-250/350 springs. You could probably use F-250 spring hangers. U-bolts plates would be a problem. They'd need to be wide enough to span the wider springs, but have the hole spacing for the U-bolts for the smaller F-150 axle. So that would probably need to be custom. I'm not sure if there would be any issue with the spring perches on the axle.

 

The F150 2wd springs are narrower, 2.5" vs 2.75" I believe. But I think the 4x4 springs on the F150 are also 2.75". I am doing this from memory, somebody correct me if I got this wrong.

 

2wd F150's are 2.5", 4x4 F150 and all F250-350 are 3" wide, so you're good there. A 4x4 F250 should have 3" tall blocks on it already, not sure if 2wd have any blocks at all.

 

My 150 is 4x4 and the donor truck was a 350 dually. But I robbed the helper spring set up for my service truck. I was hoping to use the rest to put under my 150.

How about the front lift blocks. I saw some on Amazon that were 2" blocks under the coil spring. Then looked on the rough country web site and they offered 2" taller springs.

 

I meant coil spring in the last part of my first post when I was speaking about the blocks

 

For the front coils you should be able to get the camber corrected with camber alignment bushings up to 2'' of lift.I think anymore than that and you'll need drop brackets

Also lift blocks usually make trucks squat easier,you could also take some spring packs apart and build the setup how you want it,you'll just need new center pin bolts

 

Lift blocks won't make it squat easier. What lift blocks cause (by cause, I mean promote) is axle wrap. Axle wrap is bad.

Axle wrap is the spring bending into an S shape when you mash the throttle because the pinion is trying its best to climb up the ring gear, the pinion nose starts pointing skyward, and if you get enough of it, things start to break. Like U joints, yokes, even the springs themselves.

However it's typically only an issue for people outside of mainstream uses. Offroaders with soft springs, brodozers with 12" blocks, anyone with a healthy 557 BBF under the hood.

 

After you do this properly, none of those issues above should happen. Mine rose about 1.5 to 2 inches and was fairly stiff. Those pads between the springs wear out, between the 2 sets of springs had enough good ones to insert. When it came time to replace the shocks, some here frown on it, but I used Gabriel air shocks with min 25 psi. I can put a few hundred #s there and don't even notice it now (squatting).... the discussion with the width of springs, without measuring I would guess mine at 3" width, they matched right up ..... go for it ...