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Rubber brake line question

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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 05:39 PM
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Rubber brake line question

The center rear rubber break line has two spots where the rubber came off so I assume I need to replace it? So I went and got a new one and they gave me the wrong one my question is can I bypass that switch thing in the back and use the rubber line I got and run the metal line into that or does that switch need to be in the equasion and I need to get the right line
This is the switch not sure what it's called or what it exactly does

This is the line I got it should have a block end on both sides. Can I take the hard metal line and just screw it into the rubber line
 
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 06:42 PM
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The barb fitting is the vent for the axle and is threaded through the brake hose. it's what actually holds the junction to the axle tube. You will also have to reuse the spring clip you remove from the chasis IIRC

Sorry i am not sure what that sensor is, my 93 doesnt have that, is it some sort of proportioning valve?
 
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 07:27 PM
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Can you tell us a little more about your truck? What year/model are you working on?

That does look like a proportioning valve thing that you have.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 08:17 PM
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It's a 86 f250 6.9, automatic 4.10 gears.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 08:51 PM
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that is an anti lock valve on the pre 87 i think trucks. unloaded it cuts some flow to the rear, when loaded it allows full stopping power
 
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Old Jan 17, 2016 | 09:09 PM
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So am I able to bypass it
 
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Old Jan 18, 2016 | 08:14 PM
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It's the load sensing valve for the rear brakes. Like said it cuts the flow down to the rears when unloaded. Yes it can be bypassed but you will have full rear brakes all the time. If your empty a day the road is wet/ slick or is covered with snow it can lead to stability problems as the rears will lock very easily.
 
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Old Jan 20, 2016 | 10:17 PM
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Originally Posted by monte97z
It's the load sensing valve for the rear brakes. Like said it cuts the flow down to the rears when unloaded. Yes it can be bypassed but you will have full rear brakes all the time. If your empty a day the road is wet/ slick or is covered with snow it can lead to stability problems as the rears will lock very easily.
I'm wondering... How did they 'fix' it on the 88+ trucks? I mean, even with my ABS totally on the fritz, it doesn't seem to lock up the rears too easily.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 06:34 AM
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they "fixed" it on 88 + trucks by putting that stupid RABS unit on the frame that almost everyone bypasses because it does not work.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 07:01 PM
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So I fixed the brake line and bled the breaks now when I hit the pedal it goes down a good ways then I let off and hit it again and the pedal is harder could this be the air pump going out
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mv7fd
So I fixed the brake line and bled the breaks now when I hit the pedal it goes down a good ways then I let off and hit it again and the pedal is harder could this be the air pump going out
Vacuum pump or booster, generally.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 09:15 PM
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So that would make the pedal soft on the first push and then on the second push its harder
 
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Old Jan 21, 2016 | 09:47 PM
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Soft on the first tells me there is still air in the lines, especially if its going down farther then it should go.
Hard means the vac pump or booster have an issue.
 
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by tecgod13
Soft on the first tells me there is still air in the lines, especially if its going down farther then it should go.
Hard means the vac pump or booster have an issue.
agreed. i would bleed them again
 
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Old Jan 22, 2016 | 04:37 PM
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Keep bleeding them. When I changed out that line took me like 3 times to get the air out. Was a giant PITA. If you have a vacuum bleeder I'd suggest using that, it help a lot.
 
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