Long Brake Line
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Elder User
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Long Brake Line
I was attempting to replace my rear axle brake lines and when I tried to unscrew I realized the whole line was twisting and therefore the main line from the booster to the rear axle was twisted. I need to replace it, but cannot find one online. Is that called the main chassis line? I found some of those for earlier Bronco's, but not mine. Where can I find this piece?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,915
Likes: 4,123
From: Angier, NC
What I would do unless the line is rusty and could leak is find the line size buy a short piece of pre-made line say 6"-12", a coupling and a fitting to fit the coupling and your old line.
You now have all the parts to fix what you have with out replacing the line from front to rear but...........
To make it work you will need some tools. A small tube cutter to cut the old line square and a double USA flaring tool.
OEM Double flaring tool set 25358- Read3Reviews onOEM #25358:
Cut the line square back so the premade line will fit, side on the threaded fitting, flare line, fit coupling and premade line and tighten all fittings, bleed system and you are done.
Next time a line goes bad you do the same thing and no need to order and wait for the long bent up line (how do you think they ship them?) to show up.
Dave ----
You now have all the parts to fix what you have with out replacing the line from front to rear but...........
To make it work you will need some tools. A small tube cutter to cut the old line square and a double USA flaring tool.
OEM Double flaring tool set 25358- Read3Reviews onOEM #25358:
Cut the line square back so the premade line will fit, side on the threaded fitting, flare line, fit coupling and premade line and tighten all fittings, bleed system and you are done.
Next time a line goes bad you do the same thing and no need to order and wait for the long bent up line (how do you think they ship them?) to show up.
Dave ----
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2015
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What I would do unless the line is rusty and could leak is find the line size buy a short piece of pre-made line say 6"-12", a coupling and a fitting to fit the coupling and your old line.
You now have all the parts to fix what you have with out replacing the line from front to rear but...........
To make it work you will need some tools. A small tube cutter to cut the old line square and a double USA flaring tool.
OEM Double flaring tool set 25358- Read3Reviews onOEM #25358:
Cut the line square back so the premade line will fit, side on the threaded fitting, flare line, fit coupling and premade line and tighten all fittings, bleed system and you are done.
Next time a line goes bad you do the same thing and no need to order and wait for the long bent up line (how do you think they ship them?) to show up.
Dave ----
You now have all the parts to fix what you have with out replacing the line from front to rear but...........
To make it work you will need some tools. A small tube cutter to cut the old line square and a double USA flaring tool.
OEM Double flaring tool set 25358- Read3Reviews onOEM #25358:
Cut the line square back so the premade line will fit, side on the threaded fitting, flare line, fit coupling and premade line and tighten all fittings, bleed system and you are done.
Next time a line goes bad you do the same thing and no need to order and wait for the long bent up line (how do you think they ship them?) to show up.
Dave ----
I have a cutter and flaring tool, but it does not have those other 5 pieces. Will I need those? It only twisted about 3" of tube so if a bend could be made it may still fit, but I am not sure how to bend it without kinking.
What size is the average brake line and would I measure OD or ID?
I will upload a pic in a second.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Most brake line is 3/16".
You definitely need to make a double flare, and you can't do that without those little anvils.
If it were me, and I didn't have the tools, I would just buy enough sections of line -and couplers- to replace it. (You really don't want to know what it looks like up between the side tank and the frame rail)
Like two 6' and whatever the last bit needs to be.
Tube benders come in a few styles...
Slip over springs for freehand bending.
Ones that look like a pair of bolt cutters with a protractor, for when knowing the degree of bend is important.
Small single lever ones that have a spindle and hook appropriate for the size line you're bending. (this is most common)
You can also buy the nicopp brake lines and just bend them by hand, or around almost anything radiused.
A little more costly but easy to work with and they will not rot out.
You definitely need to make a double flare, and you can't do that without those little anvils.
If it were me, and I didn't have the tools, I would just buy enough sections of line -and couplers- to replace it. (You really don't want to know what it looks like up between the side tank and the frame rail)
Like two 6' and whatever the last bit needs to be.
Tube benders come in a few styles...
Slip over springs for freehand bending.
Ones that look like a pair of bolt cutters with a protractor, for when knowing the degree of bend is important.
Small single lever ones that have a spindle and hook appropriate for the size line you're bending. (this is most common)
You can also buy the nicopp brake lines and just bend them by hand, or around almost anything radiused.
A little more costly but easy to work with and they will not rot out.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2015
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https://www.amazon.com/steel-brake-F...ake+line&psc=1
The lines are pretty old and worn Dave, so it definitely would not hurt replacing the entire thing.
Would something like this work? It is cheaper than other brake line. Is the more expensive stuff that much better? Also, I remember someone mentioning nickel. Should I get that?
The lines are pretty old and worn Dave, so it definitely would not hurt replacing the entire thing.
Would something like this work? It is cheaper than other brake line. Is the more expensive stuff that much better? Also, I remember someone mentioning nickel. Should I get that?
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Elder User
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FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
https://www.amazon.com/steel-brake-F...ake+line&psc=1
The lines are pretty old and worn Dave, so it definitely would not hurt replacing the entire thing.
Would something like this work? It is cheaper than other brake line. Is the more expensive stuff that much better? Also, I remember someone mentioning nickel. Should I get that?
The lines are pretty old and worn Dave, so it definitely would not hurt replacing the entire thing.
Would something like this work? It is cheaper than other brake line. Is the more expensive stuff that much better? Also, I remember someone mentioning nickel. Should I get that?
I have heard good things of this tubing but have never used it.
Dave ----
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
When I scroll down to the bottom of your Amazon link (below the reviews) I see a roll of copper nickel brake line for the very same price as your link.
It's easy to bend and won't collapse. It is also corrosion resistant.
I was suggesting you buy pre-made lengths of the copper nickel line and just put them together.
Advance and NAPA around here stock it like that.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/bra...p2HomeClicked=
Brake flares are simple with the right tool and some practice, but on your back under the truck with the line strung through crossmembers and around obstructions is not the place to learn.
http://brakequip.com/products/tubing/cunifer-tubing/
It's easy to bend and won't collapse. It is also corrosion resistant.
I was suggesting you buy pre-made lengths of the copper nickel line and just put them together.
Advance and NAPA around here stock it like that.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/bra...p2HomeClicked=
Brake flares are simple with the right tool and some practice, but on your back under the truck with the line strung through crossmembers and around obstructions is not the place to learn.
http://brakequip.com/products/tubing/cunifer-tubing/
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Elder User
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Wouldn't I still need to bend the sections of tubing as well? Also, how will I get the female coupler on the ends I would connect?
I was thinking I could pull the entire line and pre make the bends before installing comparing it to the original, but now that I am thinking about it, I may have trouble getting it back in that way.
Also, I do not have a side fuel tank. I can follow the brake line all the way to the booster.
I see where you mentioned the niccop lines above ArdWrkn. I missed that before.
My AZ may rent out a flaring tool and bender.
I was thinking I could pull the entire line and pre make the bends before installing comparing it to the original, but now that I am thinking about it, I may have trouble getting it back in that way.
Also, I do not have a side fuel tank. I can follow the brake line all the way to the booster.
I see where you mentioned the niccop lines above ArdWrkn. I missed that before.
My AZ may rent out a flaring tool and bender.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 983
Likes: 49
From: Northern Kentucky
The ni-cop line is super easy to bend; so easy that you just have to be careful to use gentle pressure by hand.
You really don't need a flaring tool if you buy the pre-made sections of line; they come with the flares and fittings installed and in various lengths. Just figure out the length you need and join sections together with couplings to make the correct length. AZ has the various lengths of pre-made sections and the couplings. If you already had a proper flaring tool then it would be cheaper to buy the bulk line and fittings and do your own flares, but the convenience of pre-made was worth the extra cost to me.
Just be aware that the lines are available with either standard or metric fittings. Be sure that you get all segments and couplings with standard threads.
I ran the fuel line for the engine swap on my truck with ni-cop lines and it was easy. Also replaced some rotted out brake lines with the same stuff. Its great.
You really don't need a flaring tool if you buy the pre-made sections of line; they come with the flares and fittings installed and in various lengths. Just figure out the length you need and join sections together with couplings to make the correct length. AZ has the various lengths of pre-made sections and the couplings. If you already had a proper flaring tool then it would be cheaper to buy the bulk line and fittings and do your own flares, but the convenience of pre-made was worth the extra cost to me.
Just be aware that the lines are available with either standard or metric fittings. Be sure that you get all segments and couplings with standard threads.
I ran the fuel line for the engine swap on my truck with ni-cop lines and it was easy. Also replaced some rotted out brake lines with the same stuff. Its great.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 39
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Wouldn't I still need to bend the sections of tubing as well? Also, how will I get the female coupler on the ends I would connect?
I was thinking I could pull the entire line and pre make the bends before installing comparing it to the original, but now that I am thinking about it, I may have trouble getting it back in that way.
Also, I do not have a side fuel tank. I can follow the brake line all the way to the booster.
I was thinking I could pull the entire line and pre make the bends before installing comparing it to the original, but now that I am thinking about it, I may have trouble getting it back in that way.
Also, I do not have a side fuel tank. I can follow the brake line all the way to the booster.
MUCH easier to replace on your truck than mine with the tank, switch valve and RABS module on the drivers side frame rail.
The copper line will bend easily with less chance of kinking.
It is also easy to tweak the ends so the nuts hit the fitting square to thread in and seal correctly.
Just use the cheap tool and think things out before you bend.
Masking tape or a Sharpie will help you keep track of where you are and where you need to be.
You get the couplers where you buy the line.
A coupler is female flare on both sides. Screw the line sections into each side to add them together.
It's much easier to do it in sections.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I would not recommend using Inline Tube as a supplier. So far 3 out of 3 parts of theirs I've installed have been wrong. The 2 brake lines were incorrectly bent and required about 2 hours of work to get to fit, and the brake hose came with the wrong tee/banjo fitting. Doesn't bode well for the other 8 pieces.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
I just did this job a couple of months ago on another truck I have. Get the copper nickle at the local parts stores. It bends so easy you can thread the line up through almost like wire.
The pre-made sizes are a little oddball, but you can make it work. I usually use 3 pieces and two couplers to get to the rear, just to make it easier. Pick your line lengths to put the couplers in places easy to get to. When you are bleeding the brakes, get your helper to hold firm pressure on the pedal after you are done and inspect the couplers and fittings for leaks. You may need to tweak one here or there to stop a small leak.
The pre-made sizes are a little oddball, but you can make it work. I usually use 3 pieces and two couplers to get to the rear, just to make it easier. Pick your line lengths to put the couplers in places easy to get to. When you are bleeding the brakes, get your helper to hold firm pressure on the pedal after you are done and inspect the couplers and fittings for leaks. You may need to tweak one here or there to stop a small leak.