Tuner questions
#1
Tuner questions
Anyone running a 130Hp chip/program? What boost level are you peaking at and who makes it? Why are some people disabling the wastegate and exhaust backpressure valve, wouldnt that lead to an excessive amount of boost and other problems? And last question...is there any advantage to running a dual fuel feed system.
Basically I was reading some of the things that Cookie88 has done and I am curious as to what improvements it has made.
Thanks for the help. New Powerstroke owner here
Mark
Basically I was reading some of the things that Cookie88 has done and I am curious as to what improvements it has made.
Thanks for the help. New Powerstroke owner here
Mark
#2
Join Date: Jan 1997
Location: Enjoying the real world.
Posts: 23,165
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes
on
6 Posts
Tuner questions
Okay... setting about 125+HP tune is the easy part (we program these). But to get that power, and keep EGTs in check, the engine is going to need to breath better. You'll need an intake (MAC Air Dam, AFE Magnum Force or Tymar), an exhuast system and an EGT gauge. Let me know if you want more details.
#3
Tuner questions
Originally posted by Fordguy
Anyone running a 130Hp chip/program? What boost level are you peaking at and who makes it?
Anyone running a 130Hp chip/program? What boost level are you peaking at and who makes it?
A buddy of mine from our local diesel club runs a chip that has the "OMG" setting (which I have seen dynoed at more or less 150 hp to the rear wheels), has Autometer gauges, AFE, 5" Hypermax exhaust w/3.5" downpipe, IDM mod, and the Wicked Wheel and he has hit 30-32 psi if I remember correctly.
That's a lot of power to run through the stock trans...........that particular guy runs a Suncoast tranny........and a bunch of other guys run the BTS tranny
Hope this helps.
#4
#5
#6
Tuner questions
I'd suggest that you move the EGT pre turbo with a chip. It will react faster and those are the temps you need to worry about. Too much variance post turbo.....could read 350* cooler than pre turbo or it could read 50* cooler.......so no real way to set a max. safe temp.
I'm not sure where my buddy got his trans from............I do know of a place that sells it and is out of Houston, TX but the name will just be edited out of my post by the administration here (just like the brand of chip was out of my first post ). The complete trans w/TC, and mag-hytec pan runs around $3600.
Here's a link though to BTS. I think a BTS trans w/ TC goes for $3400.........but if you go see Brian with your stock trans in good shape it might only be $2200 since he doesn't have to replace as many parts.
I'm not sure where my buddy got his trans from............I do know of a place that sells it and is out of Houston, TX but the name will just be edited out of my post by the administration here (just like the brand of chip was out of my first post ). The complete trans w/TC, and mag-hytec pan runs around $3600.
Here's a link though to BTS. I think a BTS trans w/ TC goes for $3400.........but if you go see Brian with your stock trans in good shape it might only be $2200 since he doesn't have to replace as many parts.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Tuner questions
Definately move the EGT thermocouple pre turbo. The easiest way is to use a clamp on thermocouple. Punch a hole in the left side up pipe about 4" downstream of the manifold. Look up from the bottom of the drivers side, you'll see the perfect spot.
The exhaust backpressure valve I gutted to help control EGT's, and well, to lower the backpressure. Putting a big flapper valve in the center of the exhaust path is about the stupidest thing I have ever seen.
The wastegate is disconnected because it dosen't serve any practical purpose. It lowers the amount of air available for combustion (more smoke) and raises the EGT's. A properly functioning wastegate begins to open at 5psi and is fully open by 8psi, this is not acceptable to me, and unless the watgate is physically closed (clamped,wire tied or welded shut) the exhaust pressure will open it. I've set mine to open at ~28 psi which is about optimum for my truck in it's current state. Less than that and it smokes too much and EGT's climb too quickly, and more than that (it can make well past 30) is beyond what my wheel can flow, so the extra pressure is undesireable.
Getting rid of the stock dead end fuel system has multiple benefits. It got rid of the fuel starvation problem in the #8 cylinder, it allows any non entrained air in the fuel to escape out of the fuel rail (instead of being forced through the injectors), and the regulator added to the end of the new return lines allow me to run my fuel pressure at (International's optimum spec'd fuel pressure) 65 psi (though it runs a little better at 70). And as an added bonus, the added fuel volume is worth an aditional 25-40 horsepower, even on an otherwise totally stock truck.
Oh, don't assume your tranny is just going to implode because you're putting some power to it. Chances are you will eventually damage it pushing well past 300 ponies to it, but it's not going to be a hot chip today, blown tranny tomorrow kinda thing.
The exhaust backpressure valve I gutted to help control EGT's, and well, to lower the backpressure. Putting a big flapper valve in the center of the exhaust path is about the stupidest thing I have ever seen.
The wastegate is disconnected because it dosen't serve any practical purpose. It lowers the amount of air available for combustion (more smoke) and raises the EGT's. A properly functioning wastegate begins to open at 5psi and is fully open by 8psi, this is not acceptable to me, and unless the watgate is physically closed (clamped,wire tied or welded shut) the exhaust pressure will open it. I've set mine to open at ~28 psi which is about optimum for my truck in it's current state. Less than that and it smokes too much and EGT's climb too quickly, and more than that (it can make well past 30) is beyond what my wheel can flow, so the extra pressure is undesireable.
Getting rid of the stock dead end fuel system has multiple benefits. It got rid of the fuel starvation problem in the #8 cylinder, it allows any non entrained air in the fuel to escape out of the fuel rail (instead of being forced through the injectors), and the regulator added to the end of the new return lines allow me to run my fuel pressure at (International's optimum spec'd fuel pressure) 65 psi (though it runs a little better at 70). And as an added bonus, the added fuel volume is worth an aditional 25-40 horsepower, even on an otherwise totally stock truck.
Oh, don't assume your tranny is just going to implode because you're putting some power to it. Chances are you will eventually damage it pushing well past 300 ponies to it, but it's not going to be a hot chip today, blown tranny tomorrow kinda thing.
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
diehardstroker
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
22
04-07-2020 12:42 AM
John7894
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
8
10-04-2006 09:18 PM