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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 09:14 AM
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Heavy breaks

So I changed the calipers front and rear with pads and rotors. I changed the front runner lines the hard line going to the rear with all new rubber lines and axle lines. And also changed the break booster and my break feel really heavy is this normal or could there still be something wrong? It's the 6.8 v10
 
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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 09:55 AM
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I'm asking just for the sake of getting it out there - you bled everything too, right?

What do you mean by heavy? Like super firm? How does it stop in relation to the effort you put on the pedal?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 12:19 PM
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Also just to get clarification- was it like this before the changes? Why did you change everything? Did you do it all at once?
 
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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 09:41 PM
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when i got the truck the front calipers would release... so i changed everything and now its heavy
 
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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 09:43 PM
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Once again, what do you mean by heavy...
 
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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 10:47 PM
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Are they dragging? Is the face of the wheel really hot after a short drive? Will the vehicle roll on an incline when in neutral and no brake pressure applied?

Might need to lube the pins.

I don't know how the pedal pressure could be heavy and how that would be a bad thing unless you describe it better.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2015 | 11:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Bigtom04
when i got the truck the front calipers would release... so i changed everything and now its heavy
As well, what do you mean by release? Please give context.

Are you saying when you applied the brakes, the calipers would stop engaging the rotors with the pedal still being pushed, no longer slowing the vehicle?

Stewart
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 08:45 AM
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When I got the truck the Piston in the front calipers would stay engaged so I replaced then also well with the rear.. lines were all bleed. When I push on the pedal it feels almost like manual breaks. So I changed the break booster and still feels the same..Feel like you need more effort then you should to depress the pedal
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 08:55 AM
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Depending on what you are used to driving, these beasts take a little more to stop. You may just be used to something else, and what you are experiencing may be normal. possibly have someone familiar with these rigs test it and see what he/she thinks. Just a thought.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 10:09 AM
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1) what size tires do you have?
2) where did you buy master cylinder?
3) did you gravity bleed system?
4) do you have ABS?
5) did you make sure there was no air in system between master cylinder and ABS if you have it, prior to manual bleeding?
6) if not you may have air in ABS if you have it.
7) what brand vacuum booster do you have?
8) do you have vacuum line hooked to booster properly?


More details on what was done would help reduce my questions, in order to help you.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 04:38 PM
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It will take some miles to "bed" or "season" the pads and rotors. Until that happens it will take more effort to stop in the same distance.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2015 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by rock2610d
1) what size tires do you have?
2) where did you buy master cylinder?
3) did you gravity bleed system?
4) do you have ABS?
5) did you make sure there was no air in system between master cylinder and ABS if you have it, prior to manual bleeding?
6) if not you may have air in ABS if you have it.
7) what brand vacuum booster do you have?
8) do you have vacuum line hooked to booster properly?


More details on what was done would help reduce my questions, in order to help you.
stock size tires. manual bleed the system.. do have ABS... only changed the break booster not the master cylinder.. A-1 CARDONE break booster
 
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