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Won't start with key

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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 07:34 PM
  #1  
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Won't start with key

Got off on a tangent in my other post about my "new" truck and never got an answer about my starter issue - it cranked with the key at the auction yard but not after they towed it to the shop. It does start right up using the wire under the hood. Shop said the driver may have disconnected the neutral safety switch.

I read through a lot of posts here on the topic but not sure where to find the 1) starter relay, and 2) the neutral safety switch to check those.

Also, I mistook the airbag light for the seatbelt light. It comes on a few seconds after I start it up. Could that be related to the key-no-crank problem? Maybe a bad ignition or clock spring? haven't checked the horn, cruise control or other steering wheel functions, but the rest of the electronics seem to work.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:04 PM
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So it started with the key at the auction, but will not now?

You turn the key to the on position and use the jumper wire to start it and it runs?

So then that means that when you turn the key there is no power going to the starter solenoid. So it might be the switch itself, a relay, wiring issue or solenoid.
 
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Restlesswildman
So it started with the key at the auction, but will not now?

You turn the key to the on position and use the jumper wire to start it and it runs?

So then that means that when you turn the key there is no power going to the starter solenoid. So it might be the switch itself, a relay, wiring issue or solenoid.
Yeah, that's what I figure. Except doesn't jumping it under the hood prove that the solenoid works? Wondering if it could be related to the airbag light being on.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2015 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by IHateCommieCars
Yeah, that's what I figure. Except doesn't jumping it under the hood prove that the solenoid works? Wondering if it could be related to the airbag light being on.
Yes the solenoid is working.

That doesn't mean you are getting voltage to it when you turn the key. I had an issue on an a car years ago. Turned out I fried a fuseable link when we jumped it..

I would suggest pulling the wire off of the solenoid and hook a volt meter to it. Have someone turn the key and see if you are getting voltage on the wire.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2015 | 09:35 PM
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The key switch is before the clock spring.
So that won't be the issue. I can look and see
but I don't think the DVD set I have has the E-series.
But I'll take a look.2006 E-450 right?

Well heck guess what I found All for you. Enjoy.



Sean

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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:01 AM
  #6  
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While it can be a basic wiring issue as you are thinking, cranking can also be inhibited by the PCM. Common causes are vRef shorts in the fan clutch or its wiring and connector or even the EBP sensor. Verify you have 5vdc vRef before getting too deep into the starter wiring. And as always, check fuse f2-22.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 05:31 AM
  #7  
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The comment about the starter neutral switch made me think.
Check that the PCM has all 3 plugs in place.


Is this the one that had the bent trans pan?


Sean

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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 10:06 AM
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Hey Sean, isn't it possible to verify the PCM is (or isn't) inhibiting the start by checking for ground being lifted on one of the relays? I'm on my phone at work so searching for stuff is a PITA.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 03:30 PM
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From: Spanaway
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
Hey Sean, isn't it possible to verify the PCM is (or isn't) inhibiting the start by checking for ground being lifted on one of the relays? I'm on my phone at work so searching for stuff is a PITA.
By the diagram your correct. Connector C176b pin#4 should be pulled to ground
if the PCM is giving a good to start condition. Has anyone thought about checking
the starter relay? That could cause this same problem.

If IHateCommieCars has one of the small tool stores near by he might think about
about getting this tool set.



The cool thing about the set is you can also buy just the one you need and you can
use you meter to test or a jumper wire to close the connection so that what ever
uses that relay contacts will see the relay as activated.
U think that the YELLOW tool would cover all needs for you.

Here is the one of the kits that has the yellow in it. I think I paid less,but I was not in a hurry.

Relay Tester Test Jumper Kit Domestic and Import Automotive How to Test Relays | eBay

This is about what I paid

Lisle Service Tools Relay Test Jumper Kit Extender 56810 | eBay


Here is just the YELLOW one on Amazon.

Amazon.com: Lisle 56820 Relay Test Jumper, Yellow: Automotive Amazon.com: Lisle 56820 Relay Test Jumper, Yellow: Automotive

From Lisle Tools
Has a How To video
Lisle Corporation

I am trying to think of the diagrams you might need and am coming up blank other than this new one.
Let me know what you need and I'll get them up as soon as I can.



Sean

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old Nov 5, 2015 | 04:17 PM
  #10  
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If it was an ambulance it might have an immobilizer of some kind. We just got one and it has one so it cant be stolen. Any non stock bottons or switches in the dash?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 10:48 PM
  #11  
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Possibly a bad connection in the ignition itself?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 10:58 PM
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my kill switch is well hidden under the Drivers seat. Had the truck for a year or more before I realized the previous owner installed one. Only found it when I took the seats out to clean the carpet.
 
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 05:22 PM
  #13  
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I ended up in a similar situation, probably not your problem but after using the starter jumper wire to prime the HPOS it ended up not plugged in and it took me way to long to put 2 and 2 together and plug the jumper wire back in.

Long story short remember the jumper wire has to be plugged in for it to crank with the key.
 
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