help
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
help
have a 1985 f150 4x4 auto, have issues for a while now wen i turn key truck does not start, had to wire in a button from celanoid. tried everythin i can think of,changed colum , 6 different brands of celanoid, 3 starters and all wiring i m stumped
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
I'm confused. What does the switch you wired in do?
And, without that switch what happens when you turn the key to Start?
We really need an explanation of what happens, what you've done, and why you've changed out the solenoid and starter multiple times.
And, without that switch what happens when you turn the key to Start?
We really need an explanation of what happens, what you've done, and why you've changed out the solenoid and starter multiple times.
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
i put togle in i have to turn key on acc then hit togle, its wired from celanoid under hood, otherwise without it truck wont start by turnig key. i put toggle in cause i was sick of jumping it under the hood
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
at first it acted like a starter problem to me cause turn key and nothin, celanoids i changed them after first one fixed problem for few days but then back to not starting again, and finally just got a used colum and changed it, same thing worked for a few days then same thing back to not starting by turning key again
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Brandywine, WV
Standard Disclaimer: I may not have any idea what I am talking about.
Did you put your old ignition barrel in the new column, so you wouldn't have to change keys or re-key the new one? My 88 had a tab on it that broke off a couple of times, causing a behavior similar to what you describe (if I am understanding you correctly). There was enough of a bit left sticking out the one time that sometimes it would engage and sometimes not. I finally yanked the locking mechanism thing out and rigged it up so I could just start it with a screwdriver jammed in the slot. I was later told that this is a common problem with the tilt steering column, which is exacerbated if you are in the habit of pulling yourself into the cab by the steering wheel.
Did you put your old ignition barrel in the new column, so you wouldn't have to change keys or re-key the new one? My 88 had a tab on it that broke off a couple of times, causing a behavior similar to what you describe (if I am understanding you correctly). There was enough of a bit left sticking out the one time that sometimes it would engage and sometimes not. I finally yanked the locking mechanism thing out and rigged it up so I could just start it with a screwdriver jammed in the slot. I was later told that this is a common problem with the tilt steering column, which is exacerbated if you are in the habit of pulling yourself into the cab by the steering wheel.
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
There is a red/blue-stripe wire that supplies power to the solenoid (#5 below) when the key is turned to START.
Use a volt meter to see if you're getting battery voltage to that connection when the key is turned.
If you're not, then trace that wire up to the ignition switch on the column, your problem is most likely going to be located in between those two points (solenoid <-> ignition switch) on that wire.
From Franklin2's diagrams:
Use a volt meter to see if you're getting battery voltage to that connection when the key is turned.
If you're not, then trace that wire up to the ignition switch on the column, your problem is most likely going to be located in between those two points (solenoid <-> ignition switch) on that wire.
From Franklin2's diagrams:
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
Likes: 48
From: Northeast, OK
If I understand what you've done correctly I then don't understand how it ever worked. From your description it appears that you've wired a toggle switch in to bring in the SOLENOID to run the starter. However, you state that you have to put the key in ACC to do this, and that doesn't compute as ACC should not be providing power to the ignition.
So, if that is a good description of the work you've done then you have a problem with the ignition switch. If my description is not correct then please try again.
I'm sorry if I'm slow to understand. English is obviously not your first language and your description doesn't properly convey what you are trying to say. But, please don't think I'm taking shots at you - I don't even speak a second language so you are miles ahead of me.
So, if that is a good description of the work you've done then you have a problem with the ignition switch. If my description is not correct then please try again.
I'm sorry if I'm slow to understand. English is obviously not your first language and your description doesn't properly convey what you are trying to say. But, please don't think I'm taking shots at you - I don't even speak a second language so you are miles ahead of me.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
i live in canada and only speak english lol thanks though, i know of at least ten other guys with same trouble with there fords and we are all stumped. so were is the ignition switch located
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Ford Super Duty: 5 Things Owners LOVE, 5 Things They LOATHE!
Joe Kucinski
Every 2026 Ford Truck Engine RANKED from WORST to FIRST!
Michael S. Palmer
The Best F-150 Deal of Every Trim Level (XL through Raptor)
Joe Kucinski
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
I wouldn't bother, that's not going to do anything. It's like changing the hubcap to fix a flat tire.
Test for voltage on the red/blue wire at the solenoid (when the key is turned to START).
Test for voltage on the red/blue wire at the solenoid (when the key is turned to START).
Moderator
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 22,415
Likes: 92
From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Nevertheless Gary is right, your first posts are VERY hard to read and understand, and you're not going to get much help in these kinds of forums writing like that....
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
From: Brandywine, WV
On the bottom left, that tab thingy sticking out the bottom. That's what was broken/cracked on mine. No use replacing it if it's not broken, but is yours broken? It would switch to ACC and ON, but it wouldn't crank reliably unless I jiggled it so that the broken pieces engaged with each other.
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 567
Likes: 1
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
i definately goin to change it, its a 20 dollar part, i wont know if its cracked until i take it out. i have tested the blue/yellow wire already, was one of first things i tried, so it must be the problem.