Snowseekers V10 experience. "Chitty Deuce"
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From: Central Coast of CA
I know Lock-N-Stitch makes larger inserts for oversized holes, but I also know Lock-N-Stitch inserts are expensive.
Stewart
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From: Stevens Point, WI
I may have got the wrong ones but time sert isn't very clear on OD of their inserts.
I ordered the 44186a inserts which are fully threaded, but turns out they are thinner so they have a smaller OD than the 51459 inserts which the time sert triton 5553 kit is intended for. But the "intended" 51459 triton insert still only has like 5 threads so I wanted to avoid those as they don't address the problem.
The 51459 are listed as a "big sert" which maybe I should have looked for a fully threaded insert in a "big sert" style.
Now I will use all of today to make up 5 inserts to fit the over size holes in the one head now. Time sert seems to keep the OD tap size for inserts a secret so I will have to figure out the size and tap for the new thinner inserts myself.
I ordered the 44186a inserts which are fully threaded, but turns out they are thinner so they have a smaller OD than the 51459 inserts which the time sert triton 5553 kit is intended for. But the "intended" 51459 triton insert still only has like 5 threads so I wanted to avoid those as they don't address the problem.
The 51459 are listed as a "big sert" which maybe I should have looked for a fully threaded insert in a "big sert" style.
Now I will use all of today to make up 5 inserts to fit the over size holes in the one head now. Time sert seems to keep the OD tap size for inserts a secret so I will have to figure out the size and tap for the new thinner inserts myself.
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Stewart
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From: Stevens Point, WI
Chuck up some solid aluminum round stock and go to town.
Drill.
Ream.
Reduce outside diameter to OD thread Major diameter. Leave a shoulder .050" wide.
Tap the reamed hole only up to the depth tape.
Single point thread the OD.
Part off the insert from the rest of the stock.
I figured since the lathe was set up and I had all the measurements and whatnot dialed in, if I were to make 5 I may as well make all 10 and not look for a tap and reamer to do the thinner inserts.
Drill.
Ream.
Reduce outside diameter to OD thread Major diameter. Leave a shoulder .050" wide.
Tap the reamed hole only up to the depth tape.
Single point thread the OD.
Part off the insert from the rest of the stock.
I figured since the lathe was set up and I had all the measurements and whatnot dialed in, if I were to make 5 I may as well make all 10 and not look for a tap and reamer to do the thinner inserts.
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From: Stevens Point, WI
Here you can see the difference between the 51459 (standard triton insert) on the left, 44186A in the middle (note how much thinner it is), then finally the VPT 
fully threaded thicker insert. I assume the 51457A time sert insert would be nearly identical to the ones I made.
fully threaded thicker insert. I assume the 51457A time sert insert would be nearly identical to the ones I made.
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From: Stevens Point, WI
Now on to the installation.
First is the reamer that takes out the factory threads and cuts the plug seat flat.
This is how much it protrudes when fully seated.
This is how much aluminum gets removed with just the second reamer. I don't think any amount of grease would hold this amount of chips. A vacuuming is very necessary if you do this job with the heads on the motor.
This is how far the second reamer protrudes into the cylinder when fully seated.
This is how far the tap protrudes when fully turned in.
And the driver.
Insert in there.
One insert in, one reamed and taped over size hole waiting for insert.
Spark plug in.
First is the reamer that takes out the factory threads and cuts the plug seat flat.
This is how much it protrudes when fully seated.
This is how much aluminum gets removed with just the second reamer. I don't think any amount of grease would hold this amount of chips. A vacuuming is very necessary if you do this job with the heads on the motor.
This is how far the second reamer protrudes into the cylinder when fully seated.
This is how far the tap protrudes when fully turned in.
And the driver.
Insert in there.
One insert in, one reamed and taped over size hole waiting for insert.
Spark plug in.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2011
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From: Ohio
Very impressive Andy. I'd be terrified of destroying the head with a wrong twist! Looks like you are back to switching to crush washer style plugs?
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Media PA
Outstanding research, discussion, information, pictures and work by the Snowman in this thread. 
Andy, what are your plans with the troublesome exhaust studs while the heads are still on the bench?
Andy, what are your plans with the troublesome exhaust studs while the heads are still on the bench?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Flat Rock, MI
Wow, what a superb job! Just fyi, the approved Ford method uses anodized inserts and the insert is staked to the head so it can't back out. IIRC, it uses ~1/16" pin, there is a tool that threads into the insert and has a hole to locate the drill bit, half the hole is in the new insert, other half is the head itself. HTH
