Snowseekers V10 experience. "Chitty Deuce"
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
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From: Stevens Point, WI
<table width="377" height="354"><tbody><tr><td>Center Electrode Material:</td><td>Platinum alloy</td></tr><tr><td>Thread Reach (in.):</td><td>0.679</td></tr><tr><td>Length (in.):</td><td>3.124</td></tr><tr><td>Seat Style:</td><td>Tapered</td></tr><tr><td>Center Electrode Core Type:</td><td>Copper core</td></tr><tr><td>Rib Configuration:</td><td>Standard</td></tr><tr><td>Terminal Top Type:</td><td>Fixed</td></tr><tr><td>Hex Size (in.):</td><td>5/8 in.</td></tr><tr><td>Insulator Type:</td><td>Standard</td></tr><tr><td>Ground Electrode:</td><td>Nickel alloy</td></tr><tr><td>Heat Range:</td><td>4</td></tr><tr><td>Tip Configuration:</td><td>Single platinum</td></tr><tr><td>Center Electrode Firing Tip:</td><td>Finewire</td></tr><tr><td>Thread Size/Diameter (mm):</td><td>14 mm</td></tr><tr><td>Side Electrode:</td><td>Yes</td></tr><tr><td>Resistor:</td><td>Yes</td></tr></tbody></table>
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
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From: Stevens Point, WI
The washer face would be shared by the insert and head. The insert would have to seat fulling into the head material.
My last post is the stock plug specs mostly for my quick reference. Have to find a suitable washer plug now.
But I have to go to work now. I will have to continue this later on.
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Stevens Point, WI
That has crossed my mind. I would put a note on the motor so no matter who is doing it they should know.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Nov 2014
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There were copper washers they used on spark plugs at one point but it sounds like you are wanting to marry the plug, head and insert all at one time?? I kinda picked up on this conversation as I put a threaded insert in a 94 Crown Vic 4.6 many years ago. Amazingly enough you could buy the tap, drill and the insert all stretch wrapped on a piece of cardboard. Like everyone else, no warning--the car just started running like hell. I sold the car to a dealer on trade in and ran into the guy who had bought it like 5 years later and he had not experienced any problems with it. If you're gonna do it, definitely do it now. Drilling through a spark plug hole in an aluminum head hanging over a fender was no fun. had to use axle grease on the drill to catch metal filings. Back then there was a red thermal compound you put on the insert (had to buy that separately) and let it set for 24 hours. Looks like they use red thread locker now. You'll definitely have to take some pics!
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Stevens Point, WI
I will definitely take pics as I go along. I haven't done anything for awhile now, waiting on some parts and figuring out what I am going to do with the plugs for sure.
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Joined: May 2006
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From: Versailles, KY
If all the heads are in good shape now, I'd just leave it as is. Use plenty of anti-seize on the plug and change every 2-3 years. As I understand it, the problem was galvanic corrosion fusing the steel plug with the aluminium head threads causing the threads in the head to either pull out or become weakened at the 100,000 mile plug change. There is a good plug change procedure involving PB Blaster and a day of waiting that no one followed. If it ain't broke....
Nice find
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Stevens Point, WI
If all the heads are in good shape now, I'd just leave it as is. Use plenty of anti-seize on the plug and change every 2-3 years. As I understand it, the problem was galvanic corrosion fusing the steel plug with the aluminium head threads causing the threads in the head to either pull out or become weakened at the 100,000 mile plug change. There is a good plug change procedure involving PB Blaster and a day of waiting that no one followed. If it ain't broke....
But then what happens when people are just driving along and BANG puff puff puff. lol
I like to take care of flaws if I can before they are a problem.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,113
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From: Iowa
It's just my 2¢ worth but I i'm willing to bet that 99% of plug blowouts are from spark plugs have worked loose from improper torquing or possibly worked out from the difference in metals in the heads and plugs or over tightening and stripping the threads. I was surprised to find that two spark plugs on my 99 Mustang were loose when I replaced the intake manifold several years after replacing the plugs, I torqued them by the book and if I had run it longer I'm sure they would've popped, it's good insurance to recheck the plug torque after a few thousand miles. I really don't think there's much of an issue with the spark plugs on these motors if there correctly torqued and aren't stripped from overtorquing and checked occasionally.
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Joined: May 2005
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From: Stevens Point, WI
It is the taper seats that allow the plugs to loosen up. This is one of the many reasons I hate taper seat spark plugs and is one of the many reasons not many manufacturers use taper seat spark plugs any more.
The difference between dead loose flopping around and "to torque" in a taper seat plug is 1/100 of a turn. Then we have different metals that have different thermal expansion rates, add on top of that only 4 threads in the aluminum and you have an almost guaranteed fail. It is a super bad engineering fail on all fronts which honestly any engineer should have seen a big red flag. It is almost like it was done intentionally since the warranty runs out right at plug change time it would be a perfect way for ford to make some revenue at the shops and on parts.
The difference between dead loose flopping around and "to torque" in a taper seat plug is 1/100 of a turn. Then we have different metals that have different thermal expansion rates, add on top of that only 4 threads in the aluminum and you have an almost guaranteed fail. It is a super bad engineering fail on all fronts which honestly any engineer should have seen a big red flag. It is almost like it was done intentionally since the warranty runs out right at plug change time it would be a perfect way for ford to make some revenue at the shops and on parts.