PO299 code twice now
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,833
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
I think that's a question for Ed to answer, seeing that he work's on FICM's for a living. are the two ficm's off the same year and make of truck? Ficm repair has an Exchange program that's hard to beet and you know it's done right with all the goodies in tacked
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
So far all is good again.
No Codes and no strange loss of Boost. Also my strange sort of long cranking start condition cold is gone. I think it is thanks to the Power supply swap.
I have been monitoring the Scan gauge and I do see Over 13 volts on the charging system most of the day until it gets hot and starts to show 13 to 12.8 or 7 if I throw the A/C on And all lights. Think my alternator needs an amperage upgrade. Might have the local starter and alternator Guys look at it and see what can be done. The rest of the time voltage is fine and so far everything else looks good.
I am now referring to Diesel tech Ron On You Tube as Father Ron. His videos made it easy to figure out how to get the turbo in and out real easy.
Thanks for all the knowledge guys!!! Hope I can repay in some way some day.
Total cost of repairs was 13 bucks for the ford O-ring kit with bolts and paper gasket, Cut up one small scuff pad for the air-tool and the adapter, kit was 20 bucks if that, take apart 1 free FICM given to me and harvest the power supply out of it, and 1 12 pack of Yuengling.
No Codes and no strange loss of Boost. Also my strange sort of long cranking start condition cold is gone. I think it is thanks to the Power supply swap.
I have been monitoring the Scan gauge and I do see Over 13 volts on the charging system most of the day until it gets hot and starts to show 13 to 12.8 or 7 if I throw the A/C on And all lights. Think my alternator needs an amperage upgrade. Might have the local starter and alternator Guys look at it and see what can be done. The rest of the time voltage is fine and so far everything else looks good.
I am now referring to Diesel tech Ron On You Tube as Father Ron. His videos made it easy to figure out how to get the turbo in and out real easy.
Thanks for all the knowledge guys!!! Hope I can repay in some way some day.
Total cost of repairs was 13 bucks for the ford O-ring kit with bolts and paper gasket, Cut up one small scuff pad for the air-tool and the adapter, kit was 20 bucks if that, take apart 1 free FICM given to me and harvest the power supply out of it, and 1 12 pack of Yuengling.
Hotshot
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 15,369
Likes: 121
From: Stuttgart, Ar
So far all is good again.
No Codes and no strange loss of Boost. Also my strange sort of long cranking start condition cold is gone. I think it is thanks to the Power supply swap.
I have been monitoring the Scan gauge and I do see Over 13 volts on the charging system most of the day until it gets hot and starts to show 13 to 12.8 or 7 if I throw the A/C on And all lights. Think my alternator needs an amperage upgrade. Might have the local starter and alternator Guys look at it and see what can be done. The rest of the time voltage is fine and so far everything else looks good.
I am now referring to Diesel tech Ron On You Tube as Father Ron. His videos made it easy to figure out how to get the turbo in and out real easy.
Thanks for all the knowledge guys!!! Hope I can repay in some way some day.
Total cost of repairs was 13 bucks for the ford O-ring kit with bolts and paper gasket, Cut up one small scuff pad for the air-tool and the adapter, kit was 20 bucks if that, take apart 1 free FICM given to me and harvest the power supply out of it, and 1 12 pack of Yuengling.
No Codes and no strange loss of Boost. Also my strange sort of long cranking start condition cold is gone. I think it is thanks to the Power supply swap.
I have been monitoring the Scan gauge and I do see Over 13 volts on the charging system most of the day until it gets hot and starts to show 13 to 12.8 or 7 if I throw the A/C on And all lights. Think my alternator needs an amperage upgrade. Might have the local starter and alternator Guys look at it and see what can be done. The rest of the time voltage is fine and so far everything else looks good.
I am now referring to Diesel tech Ron On You Tube as Father Ron. His videos made it easy to figure out how to get the turbo in and out real easy.
Thanks for all the knowledge guys!!! Hope I can repay in some way some day.
Total cost of repairs was 13 bucks for the ford O-ring kit with bolts and paper gasket, Cut up one small scuff pad for the air-tool and the adapter, kit was 20 bucks if that, take apart 1 free FICM given to me and harvest the power supply out of it, and 1 12 pack of Yuengling.
Glad to hear the turbo cleaning fixed you up.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 5,420
Likes: 16
From: Ouray, CO
Keep an eye on your FICM voltage. There are actually 3 different readings.
The 48 volt one you already have, along with 2 input voltages which typically read 12-13.5 volts. There is a FICM Power Relay which CAN also lead to the "strange crank-no-start" cold or hot. By watching the 2 INPUT FICM voltages AND the output voltage you can determine IF the problem is the input voltage (aka Relay) or internal to the FICM.
There are several threads with more examples of the FICM Power Relay and Ed @ Ficmrepair.com sells it as well as your local Ford dealer..
You should also have your batteries LOAD tested at your favorite auto-parts store (free). You just need to disconnect the ground wires from BOTH batteries, they'll bring the tester out to your truck (except in CA) and load test EACH battery. Lots of threads about making sure your batteries are up to snuff (an upgrade to the alternator is also a recommended solution).
The SG2 is going to be your best friend! Just be sure to keep an eye out the window.. Plus, there is a blendmount (google it) that will let you mount the SG2 up above your rearview mirror - out of view and much easier to watch.
The 48 volt one you already have, along with 2 input voltages which typically read 12-13.5 volts. There is a FICM Power Relay which CAN also lead to the "strange crank-no-start" cold or hot. By watching the 2 INPUT FICM voltages AND the output voltage you can determine IF the problem is the input voltage (aka Relay) or internal to the FICM.
There are several threads with more examples of the FICM Power Relay and Ed @ Ficmrepair.com sells it as well as your local Ford dealer..
You should also have your batteries LOAD tested at your favorite auto-parts store (free). You just need to disconnect the ground wires from BOTH batteries, they'll bring the tester out to your truck (except in CA) and load test EACH battery. Lots of threads about making sure your batteries are up to snuff (an upgrade to the alternator is also a recommended solution).
The SG2 is going to be your best friend! Just be sure to keep an eye out the window.. Plus, there is a blendmount (google it) that will let you mount the SG2 up above your rearview mirror - out of view and much easier to watch.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
From personal experience, most of the local alternator shops can't provide the quality parts that it takes to do a proper amperage upgrade. My last "upgrade" caught fire from a cheap bearing and almost burned my truck. You're much better off to do a little research on here and buy a unit with a guarantee or spend the $$$ for a real quality unit. You will save money in the long run.
I live near the water so there is a local shop I have used multiple times for Out board starters and alts as well as starters and atls for my personal cars and trucks. They are good. And I can request for them to order what ever. I just have to wait a bit longer for parts to come in. I will just have to read up on what can be done and what works best first so I dont go in blind.
Thread Starter
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Junior User
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Keep an eye on your FICM voltage. There are actually 3 different readings.
The 48 volt one you already have, along with 2 input voltages which typically read 12-13.5 volts. There is a FICM Power Relay which CAN also lead to the "strange crank-no-start" cold or hot. By watching the 2 INPUT FICM voltages AND the output voltage you can determine IF the problem is the input voltage (aka Relay) or internal to the FICM.
There are several threads with more examples of the FICM Power Relay and Ed @ Ficmrepair.com sells it as well as your local Ford dealer..
The 48 volt one you already have, along with 2 input voltages which typically read 12-13.5 volts. There is a FICM Power Relay which CAN also lead to the "strange crank-no-start" cold or hot. By watching the 2 INPUT FICM voltages AND the output voltage you can determine IF the problem is the input voltage (aka Relay) or internal to the FICM.
There are several threads with more examples of the FICM Power Relay and Ed @ Ficmrepair.com sells it as well as your local Ford dealer..
I Watched the FICM main power which was at 48.5 high to 47.5 Low durring different driving conditions. For the most part it stays at 48.
The FICM logic power Stay 13 to 12.5.
The Charging System stays above 13.4 during the day. When I turn the lights and A/C on Full the Volts drop to 13 at low and stays about 13.1 to 13.4 depending on driving.
Sorry about the confusion
The logic board power is the one that fluctuates from 12.6 or 7 to 13 volts or so when the lights are on and A/C full blast.
I will read up on FICM repair at the web site you all showed me when I get a chance. I have to show Property all weekend so Hopefully it will last long enough to get me through this. I will watch it again today.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 7,833
Likes: 96
From: Manteca,Ca
All right Glad we could help , and thank you . I don't anticipate any thing to happen, but if it does you know where to find us. at the school of FTE
. I don't anticipate any thing to happen, but if it does you know where to find us. at the school of FTE
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