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Scan gauge II at Advance Auto. Use code TRT30 and save $48. Order on line, then pick up in store and program the X-gauges. Visit the on=line site for scan gauge or watch some you tube video on how to program the gauge.
I have seen a few turbos stick on these engines. Best way i found was to pull the VGT solenoid out, Then on the opposite side of the turbo directly across for the solenoid theres a round cover. It has a snapring holding it in there. Once the snapring is out, theres a threaded hole. 6mm metric bolt i believe will thread in... small metric bolt anyways. It might take a bit but it will come out. Make sure to have a rag beneath it because you'll get a bit of oil come out. Once the cover/ end cap is off, Take a strong small magnet and stick it in there. It will grab the plunger and you should have no problem moving it in and out of the bore. Move it slowly with a full sweep. If theres any grabbing at all then i'd put my money down for a good and proper cleaning.
What does a cold soak have to do with PSI readings, temperature... sure, but PSI?
0.5 psi is base Value KOEO between MAP, BARO, EBP to make sure the Comparison of the sensors are good, when reading warm or hot engine the Values will be different , some 04 late models are EBP deferred strategy depending on the Flash that was given. It's always good to test sensors Before ripping into a Turbo Project just to find out the stupid EBP or Map was the Issue. If your Turbo has never been pulled and cleaned up well I think that may be in Order and most likely the reason for loss of boost. Diesel tech Ron has a great Video on the subject .and you can Find a topic in the Tech Folders aswell
0.5 psi is base Value KOEO between MAP, BARO, EBP to make sure the Comparison of the sensors are good, when reading warm or hot engine the Values will be different , some 04 late models are EBP deferred strategy depending on the Flash that was given. It's always good to test sensors Before ripping into a Turbo Project just to find out the stupid EBP or Map was the Issue. If your Turbo has never been pulled and cleaned up well I think that may be in Order and most likely the reason for loss of boost. Diesel tech Ron has a great Video on the subject .and you can Find a topic in the Tech Folders as well
Sure...
If the pressure is 14.7 cold, then it should be 14.7 warm. The inferred EBP strategy just means the EBP sensor isn't used. The truck still needs MAP and BARO. Barometric pressure is 14.7 at sea level +/- .5 based on conditions and MAP should be the same, even EBP should be that (when valid) until the truck is running, then EBP should be higher and as RPM climbs, so do the values for EBP.... Base value is 14.7 or atmospheric and may vary due to conditions. The three sensors should be within .5 of 14.7 KOEO whether the truck is cold (first start of the morning) or warm/hot as long as the truck isn't running. Start the engine, EBP should go up.
The BARO reading in my truck changes with the weather and I'm at sea level, 14.7 on most days and when the truck is hot, it's still 14.7.
Scan gauge II at Advance Auto. Use code TRT30 and save $48. Order on line, then pick up in store and program the X-gauges. Visit the on=line site for scan gauge or watch some you tube video on how to program the gauge.
The turbo vanes are sticking.
Thank You for the purchase Code. I will be picking up the scangauge 2 In an hour or so and then I will set it up.
What all should I be monitoring again? Map and what else?
In this case, I'd monitor BARO, MAP, EBP and VGT initially.
BARO should be 14.7 +/- .5 and MAP should be within .5 of BARO. EBP should be the same until you start the truck, then about 17.0-18.5 (3-4 PSI increase) until you increase RPM, it then should go up.
VGT shouldn't be 15 or 85. 85 being closed and 15 being fully open and those figures are only commanded numbers. But the catch is if commanded is say 20 and you have no boost, then that pretty much confirms stuck vanes. You would need to monitor VGT, Boost, BARO and MAP for this.
I monitor truck Voltage, Injector Control Pressure (ICP), Fuel Injection Control Module (FMC) voltage and coolant temp (FWT) on a daily basis.
Scroll thru boost occasionally just to see 25-27PSI.
Ok so after a hellish morning of getting th scan gauge and then having to take it back i finally have some info.
the truck was good and hot by the time I was able to actually use this gauge.
So at Idle I have
Baro at 14.6
Map at 15
EBP at 17.1 but would bounce around in the high 16's to mid 17's
VGT at 72
Very light Acceleration driving through Neighborhood.
Baro 14.6
Map 15.9
EBP 18.7
VGT 56
Normal Acceleration
Baro 14.6
Map 23
EBP 27
VGT 48
Hard Acceleration
Baro 14.6
Map 1.5??? I watched it clime to above 36 and then once full boost it jumps to a single number
EBP 49
VGT 39 and another time 14
Truck was running normal when doing this. Now I did get it to act up again and the number that kept getting my attention was the VGT. when it was not making boost with my foot to the floor the VGT read 85 Constant untill the turbo finally spooled up and then it would drop to 40 to 30. I tried that several times and got the same results.
So what dose this all mean I am not under standing the VGT numbers.
Also I have not gotten a check engine light yet either. the other times it set it off almost immediately.
I also checked the FICM POWER and I get 20 volts key on and then it jumps to 47.8 volts after about 2 - 3 seconds Is this right???
It stayed at 85 and then jumped. You should be watching boost and VGT. If VGT is commanded to a lower number and the boost is a couple pounds, it's probably stuck vanes. I'd say with what you posted it's sticking and then moves and sticks again.
FICM volts should never be lower than 45 even with KOEO, if so it needs repair.
So 20 Volts as soon as the key is turned on is not normal?
There is that noise of something cycling as soon as you turn the key on and then it tuns off and you have I think the fuel pump left running. After what ever that noise is for a 1 or 2 seconds is when the power goes from 20 volts to 48. It does not go up slowly it just jumps straight from 20 to 48 volts
So 20 Volts as soon as the key is turned on is not normal?
There is that noise of something cycling as soon as you turn the key on and then it tuns off and you have I think the fuel pump left running. After what ever that noise is for a 1 or 2 seconds is when the power goes from 20 volts to 48. It does not go up slowly it just jumps straight from 20 to 48 volts
Your FICM is junk. FICMrepair.com is the place to send it. That's not all your problem, but it's not helping either
The injectors buzz for a few seconds and then turn off leaving the fuel pump running for about 20 seconds. During the buzz the FICM is warming up... yours is at 20 volts, it should be more than 45v always.
I just tested it again warm and it says 48 the whole time. I'm going to wait and test it tomorrow when its cold and see what it dose.
ON TO THE TURBO!!!
What gaskets and seals am I going to need to take the turbo out, clean it, and re install it?
I am going to go to ford and pick them up tomorrow so I can try and get this done over the weekend.
that's what I just said Watson, I'm not Douting the Turbo has to come off and be cleaned just saying the numbers to look for at cold start, once things get heated up numbers seem to start changing slightly , same with FICM look at it cold it should be at 48.5/49, OP You didn't try to clean the MAP sensor did you ? hard excel would give a higher reading double check the Map hose , also the dealer should have everything you need all but anti seize when you install the two housings together, look to see if you have the updated oil supply line and in the kit look for the O-rings . I highly suggest looking at your Charging system as well , It's very Important to keep the Battery's up so look at your alternator with your scan gauge , you want to turn on everything =lights hvac fan on high , radio, every thing, reading= nothing lower than 13.2 , also do your test's in Park and not driving around too many Variables
I have a question. I decided to check a spare FICM I have since I tested mine again cold and it fell to 30 Volts while the glow plugs where warming up.
My FICM has 4 Lugs and the spare FICM has 4 lugs but the board lay out is a bit different.
Here are the boards in pics. Can I use the other Power supply with my FICM???
My Power Supply
Hair line crack on this
Numbers
Numbers
Tag
OK now the SPARE power supply
Numbers
Tag
Can I use this with mine or not???
The board chip lay out is all that is different
Thank You Again!!!
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If your Turbo has never been pulled and cleaned up well I think that may be in Order
and most likely the reason for loss of boost. Diesel tech Ron has a great Video on the subject .and you can Find a topic in the Tech Folders aswell
