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I have been getting the notorious P0299 Low Boost code. The check engine light was constantly on with the P0299 code as the only code thrown. I used some of the Turbo Cleaner spray and it worked for a while then the Check Engine light came back on. I just received a ScanGauge II this week, verified the code, and reset it. It has been a few days and no code so far. In addition, having watched many of the Powerstrokehelp.com and DieselTechRon videos, I was aware of techniques to help diagnose the issue. I programmed in MAP, EBP, VGT, and ICP in addition to the ones already on the ScanGauge II. This afternoon I took off on a long test run to see what I could determine. ICP is fine, EBP is okay, and the VGT was well within specification according to DieselTechRon. MAP seemed to be working well also. I was comparing my analog boost gauge in the instrument cluster with the MAP sensor and the MAP always read the same as the analog boost gauge plus ambient pressure as it should. Until.... There is a long, very steep hill on the way back home from my test run and I floored it going uphill to see what this maximum effort would show. Everything indicated perfectly until my analog boost gauge exceeded about 20-25 psi and that is when my MAP sensor went to zero and then began to read between 1.0 to about 4.0. I repeated the test and the same thing happened. As long as I am below around 20 psi boost on the analog gauge, the MAP reads fine. I cannot seem to find any information on this particular and seemingly peculiar issue. Please advise if anyone out there knows about this issue or even if it is an issue because otherwise, the truck seems to run fine. I need to know if I need to swap out the MAP sensor. Thanks in advance for any information!
Last edited by Rifleman3; May 4, 2018 at 04:27 PM.
Reason: Forgot to include engine/truck type. I have a 2006 F-250 with the 6.0L
If your reading the SGII when the map goes to 1.0-4.0 it’s the pid setting on the SGII. Mine will do the same thing. If the turbo has never been removed and cleaned now is the time to do so. Your unison ring is more than likely starting to rust to the housing and it won’t be long until it’s stuck.
I was under the impression that might be the case since everything else seems within reason. I wanted to make sure though before I pulled the turbo. I certainly appreciate the reply my friend. Now I need to make a decision as to whether to clean the stock turbo or move up to a Garret Powermax. I would also like to do the 4" MBRP exhaust and EGR delete. It never hurts to have a few more pound-feet of torque on tap. This 2006 F-250 has 77K miles and is bone stock. I am the original owner. Thanks again.
You can clean the turbo in less than a day. That’s the way I would go then do some research on the powermax. I’m not for certain but it’s my understanding you will need a tune to get the full potential of the turbo and keep the smoke to a minimum. If you decide to get a 4” system think about getting it with a 3.5” downpipe instead of the 4”. The 6.0 likes a little bit of back pressure to keep the lag in check.
I apologize, I have not been on-line in a few days. I think I will go the route you suggest as it makes good sense for multiple reasons. I found youtube videos showing how to remove and clean the turbo. Looks simple enough. I do have a question about it though. On one video, copious quantities of anti-seize were applied to the turbo face and unison wheel after cleaning. I wonder about the efficacy of doing this. I realize anti-seize compounds are often designed for hot environments, but the environment the compound will be subjected to in a turbo is exceptionally nasty in nature. Do you have any insight into this? Do you have a recommendation for a specific type or brand? Thanks again.
The cleaning is easy as long as the unison ring isn’t stuck to the housing which can be difficult to remove but we can get through that. As for the anti-seize the first time I did mine I used a nickel based product which is fine BUT I used too much and it caked up in spots. The next time I did it I brushed it on the housing and veins and wiped off the excess.
On the reinstall don’t tighten the turbo to the pedestal until you have the uppipe and down pipe clamps snugged up so there aren’t leaks the tighten the pedestal.
The shiny spots are the excess anti-seize.
Last edited by FiznUKa; May 8, 2018 at 11:17 PM.
Reason: Add pics
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P0299 Code Causes?
