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Hello all,
Looks like I will be spending some time in the 6.0L section.
I got a PO299 Code. I have read up on it and understand what it means. Now on to the problem areas to find a fix.
The truck is an 07 6.0 4x4 crew cab. it has 69,000 on the clock and it is stock. I live and drive in Florida and I have a bit of a heavy foot but I dont abuse it. Truck is stock tuned and has always be on a stock tune. Stock wheel size, and I use it to tow a 22 foot boat that ways almost nothing fully loaded (3500 to 4000 with trailer).
I checked for leaks in the charge pipes and the inter cooler and found no leaks and no split boots also the cooler ends look fine. When I check for codes both time it just shows a Po299 code 2 times on my scanner.
I understand the long list of issues with the parts added to the 6.0 for these trucks by ford and international.
I have seen that some people say the VGT vanes get stuck and need to be cleaned. My first thought is this may be a sign of something more. I did have my truck throw some injector circuit low codes before. about 3 times total. First time Happened when I was towing my boat out of the keys through Miami last year had an ******* doing 45 in the fast lane on the interstate basically drag race me when I tried to pass him. I had head lights on but two brand new ford batteries and reached 90mph so the converter had locked up in overdrive at WOT. From what I read at that load it pulls a lot of voltage from the FICM power supply to run everything. I never bothered to check the power supply because it only will throw the code when the converter goes into lockup at WOT in OD and I don't really ever do that except that one time.
I'm want to start with the easiest stuff first. I was gonna check the voltage on the batteries and when running and also on the FICM. After that I am not exactly sure what my options are to figure out this boost issue. I dont want to go and take the turbo out and clean it just to find out it may be a bad valve for the VGT.
When it threw the code today I was making a U turn. No power when I got back to the throttle and then all of a sudden it fianaaly made boost 3 seconds later. I drove it on a back road and opened her up to see if it reached good boost numbers and it hit 22 on the stock gauge. After I did that though I had no boost when I started to drive normal again. I feed more throttle and eventually it down shifted and at 3k rpms there was no boost on the gauge and it made no power. After i backed off of it about 30 seconds later it had boost again and was back to normal. Any Ideas?
Thanks for the help
I would try cleaning up some sensors , start with MAP, Follow the Hose down to the Intake there you will find a threaded Nipple Use the hose to help un/thread the nipple and clean the little hole in both nipple and intake, next IAT2 sensor, located behind the upper fuel bowl it will be gummed up. next EBP and tube just make sure you don't spray the sensor tip , make sure it's clear and the tube is blown out, take the EGR out as well , the MAP double check the hose for splits, along with CAC boot's. some say Carb cleaner is too harsh I have always used it.
OH and ware your safety glasses that stuff burns like
I would try cleaning up some sensors , start with MAP, Follow the Hose down to the Intake there you will find a threaded Nipple Use the hose to help un/thread the nipple and clean the little hole in both nipple and intake, next IAT2 sensor, located behind the upper fuel bowl it will be gummed up. next EBP and tube just make sure you don't spray the sensor tip , make sure it's clear and the tube is blown out, take the EGR out as well , the MAP double check the hose for splits, along with CAC boot's. some say Carb cleaner is too harsh I have always used it.
OH and ware your safety glasses that stuff burns like
I will defiantly start with some cleaning. Been reading up on those lovely issues that clogged pipes, ports and sensors can cause.
I will defiantly start with some cleaning. Been reading up on those lovely issues that clogged pipes, ports and sensors can cause.
Wouldn't hurt and it's real easy and the best part it's free. only your time. then try looking at MAP , BAR , EBP, VGT
do the test like this no radio HVAC, lights etc=
KOEO-key on engine off , make note of sensor value
LOW- , just Idle make note
High ( 2500 rpm steady) make note
once you get all these then post them up for Review. on a cold soak your MAP, bar, EBP should be within .5 psi of each other so check these in the morning before you start your other test
Ok so I went through and cleaned all the suggested items.
I then rest the CEL and erased the code.
Truck ran great with normal driving for about 45 min. On the way back home I decided to wind it out as I got on the highway. I gave it a little over 3/4 throttle and it ran fine and got close to 25 psi on the stock gauge. When I let off the throttle after a close to max boost pull is when I have noticed the problem returns. when I got back on the throttle normal I noticed no boost so I gave it more and more throttle with no boost and after 5 seconds or so it finally started to very slowly build boost until the charger was spinning and then went to max boost. Oddly it did not throw a code this time.
My scanner does not show MAP pressure in any form when I connect it to my truck. I know it can do it because I used it on my 97 Camaro. I guess I'm ganna have to get a better scanner. Any Suggestion? One that can read live stream and possibly data log?
I also made a video of what the truck does when it acts up.
Here is the first video where I have figured out that it will act up after I go to max boost. The truck pulls good and hard the first time with the turbo spooling and responding as it normally will and then it acts up after I get out of it and then get back to the throttle. It will do it after a quick stab to max boost or a long pull at close to max boost. Does not have to be WOT either.
I have some pics of the sensors and EGR too. Map port On the Intake looked good. I cleaned it anyway. Also cleaned the EBP and tube. I did not remove the tube but I snaked it with weed-eater line and it went through into the manifold fine. I blew out the sensor. Re checked the boots on the Charge pipes and the inter cooler and all looks fine.
EGR was a little caked but The Passage was dry
O rings still looked good and tight so I reused them
This is what the Manifold intake air temp sensor looked like when I pulled it out.
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glasses that stuff burns like
