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Or use this time as an excuse to buy a tubing bender...you'll never regret having one. My cousin has this one and I am always begging time to use it, spent my money on a welder.
Or use this time as an excuse to buy a tubing bender...you'll never regret having one. My cousin has this one and I am always begging time to use it, spent my money on a welder.
I thought about that too. I have access to a bender like that, it just won't hold 2.5". I went to Midas up the road and they quoted me $200 to build it all from the headers back. Not bad, but I think I can do it for cheaper.
I'm thinking buy a couple elbows and cut/weld them in. I'll look at the summit kit. If it's cheap enough and looks like what I need I'll do it that way.
I thought about that too. I have access to a bender like that, it just won't hold 2.5". I went to Midas up the road and they quoted me $200 to build it all from the headers back. Not bad, but I think I can do it for cheaper.
I'm thinking buy a couple elbows and cut/weld them in. I'll look at the summit kit. If it's cheap enough and looks like what I need I'll do it that way.
You might call Mesa Muffler right here by me. I had them do some dual tailpipe work on my nephew's 90 f250. Did great work. Mandrel bent.
Thought about that too mike. For what it would cost and the work it would take, I can buy the pre-made elbows from oreillys, or for just a few bucks more I can have it made. But I want to do it myself so that I can make it exactly how I want it. And have the bragging rights to say I did it myself.
Yep I told him that. But he also said that he doesn't do ANY (how did he put it) outside bending. If he's not building it, he won't bend it. Which I think it's pretty stupid and bad biz, but whatever.
Hio Silver, I think I'm going to have to do the same thing to my transmission crossmember that you did to yours. I dropped the driver side header in place for mock up, and it is pointing directly at the transmission crossmember. Can you put up your picture of that again?
Hio Silver, I think I'm going to have to do the same thing to my transmission crossmember that you did to yours. I dropped the driver side header in place for mock up, and it is pointing directly at the transmission crossmember. Can you put up your picture of that again?
I'm thinking I'll use some 4" Square material.
Greetins. i thought this thread was about desktop dynoing... good to see there's wrenching going on!
Got your PM and here are the pics.
Weld up some bracing to keep the Xmember in alignment. Remember to leave yourself some room to work with...
Cut, grind, and cut again... slide 'er in. I went with six inches of 4-inch OD DOM.
Weld them in. You will see that the pass-throughs are offset to the passenger side about two inches because the driveline is offset by the same amount. Consider cheating the passenger side over a bit because an oval case muffler, when level and fat side down, will be really close to the frame rail... that's why I went with round-cased mufflers.
Added a few gussets, derusted, and painted.
Installed, left side:
Right side:
Completed. Notice that the tubing has to be withdrawn from the Xmember because it is trapped through the tubing. I suggest applying antiseize to the sleeved parts and securing the connections with lapped band clamps and so the system is easily removable. The wrap is DEI "Lava" wrap... 25 feets worth so it transfers less heat.
Very good, very good. I will be using yours as an example. Thank you. Now, I just need to figure out if the passenger side header will fit and clear the frame/starter/bellhousing. If so I'll get to work on the crossmember. I have a spare in my parts truck I can easily use for this.
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Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
