I'm going to give this a shot here too, as the Forest River forums didn't get much response.


We are leaving Friday AM to take the new trailer out, finally. Had miscommunication and I though we were booked for last weekend which was beautiful around here. Anyway, we have a full hookup site booked at a state park about an hour from home Friday to Sunday this weekend. Forecasts are highs in the upper 50s and lows in the upper 20's. I spec'd heated tanks in the new trailer, as we've had this happen early and late season around here before. Trailer is currently still winterized.


We want to be able to use the plumbing to try everything out, as I already have a few things that need addressed and have to run back toward the dealer anyway. Any thoughts on the tank heaters? The manual makes no mention of then whatsoever, the switch is there but not labeled, and there is NO info on them anywhere in the packet we got with the trailer or in the trailer itself. Dealer didn't have much info to offer. Our unit is a TH and has big tanks. I plan on hauling the trailer with 50g fresh(100g cap) as on more than one occasion at the PA parks I've seen water I'd rather not put in the trailer. Should I fill the grey and black tanks to 1/4 so they have something in them for the heaters to warm up? I know 2 of us over 2 days won't put much in either. The trailer is well under capacity for my truck so towing with extra water isn't an issue. Thoughts?

 

Here are my thoughts about freezing temps. Unless the temperature is going to drop into the low to mid 20s and hold there for most of the night, 20s are pretty much a none issue. Often if you pull up the weather forecast and it drops below freezing for an hour at 6:00 a.m. nothing is going to happen. Now if it is going to drop and hold, remember things don't freeze instantly, I would operate tank heaters after making sure I have something in the tanks per heater manufacturer recommendations. I don't heat em ahead of time as most everything that goes into the holding tanks is warm when it goes in!

The tanks really are not in not in harm's way unless they are near full and freeze. Even if you have a little in the tanks and it freezes, there is plenty of room in a large tank for expansion.

Not encouraging anyone to simply ignore the cold, but the newer stuff really does quite well in the cold. I used our tank heaters this past winter when it dropped into the low to mid 20s and held there most of the night. Since you have em, no reason not to use them, although I am guessing most folks use them very seldom, if at all, which might account for the limited forum responses.

 

My trailer has a heated underbelly so I never worry about it.


I would most certainly carry plenty of fresh water though. A lot of times when we winter camp the campground water lines are all shutoff.

 

If you are specifically concerned about the black and gray tanks, just pour a 1/2 gallon of pink antifreeze in each tank.

 

We have heated tanks on our trailer and all you have to do is run the gas furnace, there's a duct that runs down to them with no switch because it's open all the time. We just have to be sure not to run electric heaters when it's real cold out so the furnace can do its job down there, if you are going down the road in freezing weather I don't think anything will stop them from freezing they are made to work when setting still.

Denny

 

Yes, but he has tank heaters. Why not use them?

 

I'm suspicious when a manufacturer claims heated tanks. The now gone Titanium had 'heated tanks' and it turns out that it was a heated and enclosed frame with air ducting dumping warm air from the furnace. The new one - same thing. If it has a power switch and heat elements (a fairly easy mod if you need it) then they really are heated tanks. As far as the heat ducting on the old one, I blocked that off to put those needed (and quite expensively heated) Btu's into the living area as there was never a time when we would be using the trailer during an extended cold period beyond overnight.

 

Just a thought here.... But are you saying that your trailer has been winterized or do you mean that it's 4 season?
If it's been winterized then when you fill your fresh water tank only fill it to 25% then add 4 teaspoons of bleach to flush the lines. Wait for your water pump to shut off then start with the furthest water source first and let run for 7 minutes. Then open the next water source and turn the furthest off until you get to the closest source then drain the fresh water tank .
Repeat this procedure at least once more or until you feel safe.👍
As for using tank heaters... You should fill tanks to 30% capacity to prevent burn out when the vehicle is in motion.
But the bleach procedure is a must if you have antifreeze in your fresh water lines 👍

 

One reason travel trailers (all types) and mobile homes use PEX water lines and polypropylene tanks has to do with cold weather and freezing conditions. They both are more resistance to bursting than typical PVC or ABS plastics. They allow more expansion even in colder temps.

 

pex lines are going into new housing construction as well now.

 

Are you going to drink the water from the tanks or carry bottled water to drink, which is common for winter camping? If you are going to drink the water in the tank, yes you need to sanitize it.

Steve

 

I just drain my fresh water tank, leave the drain valve open and by pass it on the winterization.


Why put any of the rv antifreeze in it?


I bypass the hot water heater as well. Just drain it.

 

I agree. I have no idea why there would ever be antifreeze in the fresh water tank. On the tank inlet side of the pump, I run the pump dry and empty the filter. Have not done anything more on that end of the system. Pex lines? Have never (yes I mean never) had one break. Faucets and commode valves especially, lots and lots of commode valves. I just use air pressure to blow mine out, but I put antifreeze in customers' so there is evidence I actually did something.

Steve