Well I think it's a good idea to start the trouble shoot from start who really knows what the other mechanics did or didn't do

Cold makes sense cuz things contract if it's the case then wiggle wire harness should change its mind

When you say you swapped those parts are they ALL still in the truck now?

Seams like lots of things will cause a dead pedal with these trucks but I think we can rule most of that out since its a dead pedal with pedal specific DTC's

If it were me I'd get everything plugged back in and ICP sensor changed if it's bad the ICP AND EGR could be making it throw P132b

Program the SGII for all 3 pedal tracks and get V-REF in there as well

 

Great idea Benny.

You can see what it does when it's working normal and compare it to when it's acting up.

.

 

Can the scangauge do APP? I found the vref but not those. Also, not sure if there is any confusion...but the engine doesn't die when this happens...just goes to idle only

 

Here's some XGauges you can try. The tracks didn't work for me but the TPC did. Sorry the format is so sloppy, it's just cut and paste stuff I've copied to notepad.

Dead pedal and ScanGauge

AP% 07E02209D4 0462050906D4 3008 000100020000 Accelerator Pedal Position (%)

TP1 07E0220917 046245090617 3010 0064040000000
TP2 07E0220918 046245090618 3010 0064040000000
TPA 07E022093C 04624509063C 3010 0064020000000
TPC 07E022091A 04620509061A 3010 0020000010000 Throttle Position Commanded (Degrees)
TPD 07E022091A 04624509061A 3010 0064020000000

Throttle Position 1 (Volts). Voltage of the ETC Throttle Position Sensor number 1
Key On = 4.0
Low Idle = 4.0
High Idle = 3.4
Operating Range = 0.7
‐ 4.2
Throttle Position 2 (Volts). Voltage of the ETC Throttle Position Sensor number 2
Key On = 1.4
Low Idle = 1.4
High Idle = 1.9
Operating Range = 1.4 ‐ 4.1
Throttle Position Actual (Degrees). The measured throttle angle from the throttle sensor inputs.

Throttle Position Desired (Degrees). ETC Commanded Throttle Angle

Accelerator Pedal Position (%)
Key On = 0
Low Idle = 0
Hi Idle = 13
Operating Range = 0‐17.75


Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) Sensor

The accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor is a three-track potentiometer that is used to calculate driver demand for fuel quantity. The sensor receives VREF voltage from the PCM and provides a variable voltage signal directly proportional to the accelerator pedal position. A PCM detected fault of one of the three sensor track signals will permit normal operation. A fault with two sensor signals will only allow the engine to operate at idle.
The field highlighted in bold red will clearly describe the condition that needs to be present in order for the engine to default to engine idle only operation. Having said that, there are THREE APP sensor inputs that need to be read in order to determine if there is a problem present with either the circuit(s) or the actual accelerator pedal itself involved with the issue you appear to be having.

The three APP sensor readings are as follows:

APP #1 Closed Throttle 3.9 - 4.2 Wide Open Throttle 0.7 - 1.2

APP #2 Closed Throttle 1.4 - 1.6 Wide Open Throttle 3.6 - 4.1

APP #3 Closed Throttle 0.8 - 1.1 Wide Open Throttle 3.1 - 3.5

By the way, those numbers in the chart posted above are expressed in volts. So as you can see, with the pedal at rest should indicate lower voltage number readings and increase proportionately to the higher end numbers for APP sensors #2 and #3 as the pedal is depressed further toward the end of its travel, while APP #1 begins at higher number voltage readings and decreases proportionately to lower numbers as the pedal is depressed further downward toward the end of its travel respectively.

You will of course, require a scan tool that can read this live data to see if those three number readings change accordingly with the pedal depressed throughout its range of travel. If any one, two or all don't respond, then the problem lies within the circuitry (or the component itself). If all three numbers do respond as described as they should above, then the PCM likely "sees" a condition present that it doesn't "like" to cause it to default in an idle only operation.

 

I also ohmed -out a properly working pedal assy and got these results. It was still in the truck (not too uncomfortable to do) so I couldn't see the PIN numbers. Hope my description will do.

Accelerator pedal ohm-out

My eyes aren't good enough to see what Ford labeled the pins without pulling the pedal assembly out,so I'll just describe their position. There are seven pins in two verticals rows, left row has 4, right has 3. Top left pin I'll call "A" going down the first row to D, and top right pin is E going down to G. First resistance value is pedal up, second is pedal fully down. Numbers in parentheses are change in value, last word indicate if resistance increased or decreased.

A-B--3.1k-2.2k--(0.9k)--dec
A-C-- 3.1k-2.2k--(0.9k)--dec
A-D--4.4k-4.0k--(0)
A-E--2.5k-3.1k--(0.6k)--inc
A-F--3.7k-3.6k--(0.1k)--dec
A-G--2.6k-3.0k--(0.4k)--inc

B-C--0.2ohms-0.2ohms--(0)
B-D--2.8k-2.3k--(0.5k)--dec
B-E--1.3k-1.3k--(0)
B-F--0.9k-1.8k--(0.9k)--inc
B-G--1.3k-1.3k--(0)

C-D--2.8k-2.3k--(0.5k)--dec
C-E--1.4k-1.4k--(0)
C-F--1.0k-1.8k--(0.8k)--inc
C-G--1.4k-1.4k--(0)

D-E--2.0k-2.8k--(0.8k)--inc
D-F--3.4k-3.4k--(0)
D-G--2.0k-2.8k--(0.8k)--inc

E-F--1.8k-0.8k--(1.0)--dec
E-G--5.2ohm-5.2ohm--(0)

F-G--1.8k-0.8k--(1.0k)--dec

 

I know there is 3 but I could only find 2, along with desired and actual.


Throttle Position 1 (Volts)

TXD: 07E0220917

RXF: 046245090617

RXD: 3010

MTH: 006404000000

NAM: TP1

Note: Voltage of the ETC Throttle Position Sensor number 1

KO=4.0 LI=4.0 HI=3.4 OR=0.7 - 4.2 VOLT Accelerator Pedal Track 1


Throttle Position 2 (Volts)

TXD: 07E0220918

RXF: 046245090618

RXD: 3010
MTH: 0064040000000 0064040000000

NAM: TP2

Note: Voltage of the ETC Throttle Position Sensor number 2


KO=1.4 LI=1.4 HI=1.9 OR=1.4 - 4.1 VOLT Accelerator Pedal Track 2
----------------
Throttle Position Desired (Degrees)

TXD: 07E022091A

RXF: 04624509061A

RXD: 3010

MTH: 0064020000000

NAM: TPD

Note: ETC Commanded Throttle Angle, in degrees.


Throttle Position Actual (Degrees)

TXD: 07E022093C

RXF: 04624509063C

RXD: 3010

MTH: 006402000000

NAM: TPA

Note: The measured throttle angle from the throttle sensor inputs.

 

Should i just order a new pedal from Ford and install that just to completely eliminate that?

 

My 2 cents would be to set up the SG2 to read these data and take some readings, then replace to the new one, then you could monitor it again and see what difference there are and if you truly have found the problem. The process of elimination is arduous but if down right, you will resolve your issue more definitively.

One more thought, as I know you have fought with this or related issues quite a bit. In those previous threads were you able to monitor VREF before, and we're you able to measure at a number of the three wire sensors? I think VREF is the route of your problem from what I can remember of your previous and this thread, it just seems to be the common link that you should pursue. Perhaps others more able to problem solve like Blagpde and rusty can add to this, it is something I mention because that's what I see from the outside looking in. Hope this helps.

 

You may need to use something other than SGII. My scanner can track all 3 signals, so A&E should, basicaly a older version of A&E and IDS definately should.

 

I just hate to have to tell someone their only fix for this is a $500.00 accel pedal.
When I am almost positive it is only corrosion within the switch. A few shots of contact cleaner while working the pedal thru the lenghth of it's travel a few times would clear it up for awhile. But how do you get the spray in there. None of the methods I have tried have worked consistantly or permantly.

 

I can't go through all of this until I get home, but the pedal from ford is only $130. I don't have adjustable pedals

 

well that is nice to know. When I was with the fleet we were being charged $500+- from the local dealer.

 

You could ohm out your pedal assy and compare to the numbers I posted above. It looks like a lot but really not that big of a deal, maybe 10min. A analog meter would be better so you could watch for the needle to jump as your pressing the sensor through it range of travel. I would want to know the part was bad before replacing it.

 

I do have auto enginuity so i could use that, but i also have a few fluke meters i could use if that is more acccurate...no analog ones though

 

Damn Miles, can't believe your going thru another round of this... Good luck man