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It's been many, many, MANY years since I've offered this, but if anyone wants it, I can send them a copy of the original Excel spring sheet put together by Bruce1954 back in.....oh crap, I think it was '04 or '05. I hit him up back in '05 when he talked about it in a few different threads and he sent me what he had. If you're interested just drop me a PM with your email and I'll send you the spreadsheet. Stewart
Ok, I just scrolled all the way down my inbox to your email and downloaded them. The .tif files won't post, but I'm gonna post the Excel sheet here so the Excursion collective (no relation to the Borg) can chime in.
Holy cow! Rob Ross that is a lot of great info, good work! I have to spread some reps around before I can hit you again but I'll be sure to send some you way for this!
Holy cow! Rob Ross that is a lot of great info, good work! I have to spread some reps around before I can hit you again but I'll be sure to send some you way for this!
Thanks Tom!
I'll take a look at my original sheet, I've added some info since the one above.
Thanks for the reps! The "auto" portion of my spreadsheet is based on sprung weight (everything above the springs) and is for only 1 side. You'll get used to it.
Really nice looking stance (and color). I have been on the fence for spring swap for a long time but my stock springs are worn and I am towing heavier and don't want the rear sag I get. I originally insisted on stock height thinking it was more stable when towing but had a F250 that sat higher and towed more stable so I don't think a few inches affect stability. I also thought for some reason lifted trucks got worst mileage but now thinking that is from the larger (wider) tires they put on not the lift itself so now I wouldn't mind a few more inches of ground clearance.
Originally Posted by Drunken_Unicorn
Done! WOOOO!!
Ok, I cheated. I paid a shop to do the rears for me. I have homework to do, and I couldn't take the nose up look I had any longer.
I must say it drives MUCH differently. It is a bit harsher of a ride, but not anywhere near as harsh as I expected it to be. Drives, handles, and feels so much better. I don't have any measurements for you yet. I need to wait till the Shop has a free bay in it so I can do it right, and by the approved method.
I did throw the tape on it really fast, it brought it up to 41 1/2" in the rear
If you don't mod them won't you have a reverse rake? I'm kinda confused on when to mod or when to use the dropped shackles in front to keep the truck stance level or slightly raked.
Originally Posted by WE3ZS
Look for B or C codes from an F-250/350 for the rear of your Ex and then do the B mod if you want a little extra lift from them. And yes, that chart is only for the front springs.
If you don't mod them won't you have a reverse rake? I'm kinda confused on when to mod or when to use the dropped shackles in front to keep the truck stance level or slightly raked.
That reply was to El Camino Man, he was just looking to upgrade rear springs and didn't seem interested in doing anything with his stock fronts.
What you may need to do with a set of B codes really depends on what you do with your front springs and what sort of rake you would like when done. The reason the B "mod" was invented was to save folks the extra expense of buying taller blocks to keep the factory rake AFTER doing a V code swap up front. So if leaving the stock fronts in place no mod to the Bs should be required. Likewise if taller front springs (like my Modded X codes) are put up front then more may need to be done to a set of Bs for the rear, I used modded Bs AND taller blocks AND 2 sections of old traction bar on mine. I actually want MORE than factory rake so it rode level while towing.
Precisely! Although I forgot to slow down for the railroad tracks today on my way home and bottomed out my frontend... I really didn't hit them "that" hard. Now its got me reconsidering lol. 245,000 miles with a 6.0L up front has prolly got my springs a little wore out.
Hey Tom, do you got a current pic of the X with the 35s? (not trying to threadjack)
Precisely! Although I forgot to slow down for the railroad tracks today on my way home and bottomed out my frontend... I really didn't hit them "that" hard. Now its got me reconsidering lol. 245,000 miles with a 6.0L up front has prolly got my springs a little wore out.
Hey Tom, do you got a current pic of the X with the 35s? (not trying to threadjack)
Ok, I cheated. I paid a shop to do the rears for me. I have homework to do, and I couldn't take the nose up look I had any longer.
I must say it drives MUCH differently. It is a bit harsher of a ride, but not anywhere near as harsh as I expected it to be. Drives, handles, and feels so much better. I don't have any measurements for you yet. I need to wait till the Shop has a free bay in it so I can do it right, and by the approved method.
I did throw the tape on it really fast, it brought it up to 41 1/2" in the rear
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The reason the B "mod" was invented was to save folks the extra expense of buying taller blocks to keep the factory rake AFTER doing a V code swap up front. So if leaving the stock fronts in place no mod to the Bs should be required. Likewise if taller front springs (like my Modded X codes) are put up front then more may need to be done to a set of Bs for the rear, I used modded Bs AND taller blocks AND 2 sections of old traction bar on mine. I actually want MORE than factory rake so it rode level while towing. 
