Do you know if this is a Carter YF or YFA carb? Apparently my year should have had the YF, but this looks more like the YFA if it were missing the extra inlet on the bowl? This video at 1:15 has them side by side

 

run the #'s on the base of the carb. They are located above the hold down bolt on the valve cover side.

 

My carb ID is YF6239S.

It appears to be the model for the 71-78 Ford 300", but I suppose it works for the 67 just as well.

I left work on time today, but still was unable to get home before sundown. Pulled the first 3 spark plugs to check their condition (couldn't all 6 because it was 32F, windy, and dark) and they were very carbon fouled. I believe they are relatively new since the wires and cap look good, but are still toast already in my opinion.

Also managed to get a flat right-rear tire even though I haven't driven it. Whenever I get time I may pull the wheel to check for nails or if the bead is unseated by rust or something.

 

Pulled the tire, inflated it, sprayed it with water and it had two small leaks on the front bead. My tire guy broke it down, hit it with an emery cloth, and remounted it. Seems good now, a 5$ fix. Haven't been able to do much else lately. I've been working everyday including weekends and simply beat, on top of it being dark and freezing outside.

Might buy a new set of wheels and tires come tax time, along with a few other things. I'm looking at the Wheel Vintiques 12 series smoothies, 15x6. Maybe get them in satin black with the chrome moon eyes and polished trim ring. Current tires are borderline, so may as well get it all at once. It has 215/70's which are fine...

Something I noticed while tinkering is that while the passenger side rear tire has plenty of room in the wheel well both vertically and horizontally, the axle sits slightly to the right (in relation to the chassis) which brings the inner side of the driver tire close to inside of the wheel well. My 06 Mustang sat the exact same way. I can get a finger between them, but any lateral play in the rear would be close. Explains why the P.O. had small spacers on it. I don't see this being an issue at normal ride height since the 5-5.5" lift would put them in different planes, but down low it is something to watch. The 15x6 wheels I'm looking at have a 3.625" backspacing versus the stock 4" spacing, which should push it another 3/8" from the inner well.

Frame looks great and is notched.

 

Decided I had enough dough in the bank, so placed an order through Summit.

Got Wheel Vintique's 12 series smoothies 15x6 and 15x8 , their baby moon eyes, trim rings, and valve stems.
Bought 225/70 and 275/60 BFGoodrich T/A Radials.
Also got Moog 8226 (240/300) coil springs to get the front sitting proper.

Will post pictures when I get everything in order. Getting the wheels powder coated, likely in satin black.

Still doing research for the rear suspension. Looking at General Spring as their leaf springs fit the budget. Eaton Detroit seems like a good option as well, but their product is over 2x the cost! Will measure for new shocks when I get my new ride height established.

 

Also, it's been pretty cold out lately!

 

Looks to cold for me back there. I'll take the desert heat in the summer thank you. Just curious , what did you pay for this truck? I think a Six would be a nice engine to learn on.

 

More than I should have, I'll leave it at that! If I know what I knew now, I would offer him about half of what I paid

 

I notice you have a 69 Ranger headlight bezel on the drivers side and a correct one on the passenger side.
You'll want to get the drivers side looking like the passenger side.

 

IMO the first thing you need to do is take a compression check. You can rebuild the carburetor, change the points, etc. til you're blue in the face but it'll never run right if the compression is bad on a cylinder or two.

 

Very true...if the engine isn't square no amount of tuning will help. Since the outside of the engine all appears to have been painted at the same time I think it was rebuilt at some point.


The black plugs of course indicate poor combustion, but how does the shape of the center electrode look? If it is nice and square then the plug isn't very old.


You can always later upgrade the engine to a bigger cam, nicer intake with a 4bbl carb and a header.


Forgot to say...Nice Truck

 

I know this is an old thread, but I just logged in for the first time in forever--I believe that's an Onan generator engine you've got in there--at least I've got one here in the shop that is the same color that we pulled out of a 1970's Onan. The whole generator was painted that color. If I'm not mistaken, they used truck blocks and I'm pretty sure it is exactly the same as the truck engine, (same cam, same manifolds, same distributor, etc.), though some of the generators had different water pumps, different carbs, a bolt-on governor, maybe a few other little differences. Mine was set up to run on gasoline or propane. Cool truck. I had a '66 that I loved.