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Baddog's '67 Build

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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 04:39 PM
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Baddog's '67 Build

Bought a 1967 Ford F100 4.9L 3spd 2wd shortbed on the 6th from a guy in Pittsburgh. Not perfect on the outside, lots of dings and scrapes, but it's a truck! Trim and stuff is mostly removed, got a rat look going on especially with the current lowered stance.









Looking to first get the motor running reliably and strong, but not worried about performance mods or anything. Also want to rework the suspension, get everything squared up correctly and PROPERLY lowered. And maybe a disc conversion, that would be nice!












That being said, first issue is the carb. At least I think that's what it is. Starts up with some trouble, a bit rough but I assumed it was related to the subfreezing weather. However, if you turn it off, good luck getting it restarted. Looking in retrospect, I've no idea how I managed to get it all the way home. I spent 30 minutes at the gas pump last night trying to get it to run. Cranks great, just wont grab. I think it is pumping is WAY too much fuel and flooding everything, especially since there was fuel on the OUTSIDE of the carb body when I looked at the pumps, but I'm pretty ignorant on carbs. I can get a new carb from Advanced @ their cost, just need yall's advice on what to do. Factory single barrel would be fine. Can buy a higher cfm later on if I do a better intake/exhaust combo.









I also thought I had a busted radiator because when I finally made it home last night I saw fluid dripping and the top of the radiator was wet. But now I'm thinking it got a bit of crud in the blowtube outlet, which I pushed out with a wire. Maybe got enough pressure to push by the cap and wet everything down? I didn't realize it was brass, I've been working all week and literally have only get to see it after midnight out here in the country where I can't see crap...



 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 04:50 PM
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couple suggestions:
check to be sure the choke isn't sticking. try a rebuild on the carb.
check the points and condenser and be sure you have fire.
check for vacuum leaks and the vacuum advance from the distributor.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 04:53 PM
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Unfortunately I do not know how to do any of that. Only thing I know of that is that the choke cable is NOT connected to the carb.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 04:55 PM
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the carb on it has an electric choke. the cable will have no use unless you switch back to a manual choke.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 05:03 PM
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Oh my your in for a real treat if you can't do any of that. Was the truck sitting for awhile or was it being driven regularly before you? How's it run any throttle hesitation hiccups or bogging down under light or hard throttle? A basic carb rebuild usually wakes these trucks back up from the dead and makes them run like a top again. The carb rebuild is easy usually they come with instructions and what needle settings to start at. Nice truck hoes the rust being in the rust belt?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by crazed87bronco
Oh my your in for a real treat if you can't do any of that. Was the truck sitting for awhile or was it being driven regularly before you? How's it run any throttle hesitation hiccups or bogging down under light or hard throttle? A basic carb rebuild usually wakes these trucks back up from the dead and makes them run like a top again. The carb rebuild is easy usually they come with instructions and what needle settings to start at. Nice truck hoes the rust being in the rust belt?
It was being driven, but I don't know how regularly. I could tell that the guy who I bought it from was simply flipping it, but I don't know how long it was in his possession or how much he said was truthful. Bad idle and throttle response is not good at all but I have nothing to relate that to except modern cars which isn't fair. No real bogging when under light or heavy acceleration, pulls up a mountain like a champ, but if I'm in 3rd and easing OFF the throttle it feels kind of pulsing instead of smooth. Barely touch the pedal and it smooth out.

The rust is fine for the moment. The tailgate could be replaced, but it's not bad! Still functions just fine. There is a thin spot on the floor of the bed (front right corner) but probably still thicker than any metal on my Focus. Wasn't looking for a beaut because I'll probably give her a few more scratches
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 05:46 PM
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well you picked a great truck and engine to learn on. The straight 6 is about as simple as it gets.
there are plenty of write ups and even videos online that will help instruct you. We are, of coarse, always willing to help if you hit a bump.
Time to sit down with a large drink of choice and dive into the net for research.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 07:46 PM
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Good luck "re"-rebuilding that Tomco carb. Everyone of those I ever took apart looked like they had been built on the short bus in the dark.
Nice old truck. I'd like the rake better if it was the other way, back end a little higher than the front, not lower.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 08:24 PM
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When I originally found the truck online the front was much lower and thus the camber was very bad. He pulled the cut coils and put different ones in which raised it up some. Axle flip in the rear. I'd like to get new coils, leaves, shocks, and DJM 3/4 kit but that will have to come later.

Driveway is not flat either, lol
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by willowbilly3
Good luck "re"-rebuilding that Tomco carb. Everyone of those I ever took apart looked like they had been built on the short bus in the dark.
Nice old truck. I'd like the rake better if it was the other way, back end a little higher than the front, not lower.
I believe it is nearly level and what you may be referring to cold be an optical illusion... notice that the distance from the fender arches to the bump body line is shorter in front and taller in the back.

"short bus" .... ya think they rebuilt it while wearing hockey helmets?
 
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Old Dec 13, 2014 | 10:17 PM
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Cool truck. Find a '67 Ford Truck Shop Manual and a couple old general auto repair books and you'll be all set.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 01:35 AM
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Is that a factory engine colour?
 
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Old Dec 14, 2014 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by trozei
Is that a factory engine colour?
No, the original color was Ford Corporate Blue.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
I believe it is nearly level and what you may be referring to cold be an optical illusion... notice that the distance from the fender arches to the bump body line is shorter in front and taller in the back.

"short bus" .... ya think they rebuilt it while wearing hockey helmets?
OOOH give 'em some repect guys. It takes talent to rebuild a carb with a Straight Jacket on.
 
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Old Dec 15, 2014 | 08:08 PM
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Not a big fan of the lowered look but 67' is an awesome year! That is an awesome engine you got there as well.
 
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