I have pulled quite a few 2.0 liter, 4 banger motors in my day, which I think I have it down to a science. Pull the throttle linkage, wire harness, undo motor mounts, remove tranny bolts, and remove exhaust manifold (or tailpipe). I have used my sawsall to cut 'open' the front radiator support sometimes so removal is easier. I am sure the 300 is similar in nature.

I am pulling the motor and trans from a junkyard and looking for any helpful hints/experience/order/time, etc, like does removing the radiator and hood save time? Any special tools? (Besides lots of patience!) The truck is up on blocks.

I am thinking the driveshaft would be first, then tranny mounts, exhaust manifold, then motor mounts and then wire harness and throttle linkage.

I have reviewed the service manual, however, those tend to be in ideal conditions.

 

for my truck, i removed the entire front.
the radiator, ac, radiator support, all of it, but i have a higher sitting truck.

i pulled both motor and trans.

it then came out easy.

i removed the front then went to the stuff that attached to the motor(ac, throttle, wires, broke the motor mounts loose)

then i went under and undid everything and then came back hooked it up and removed the rest of the big things.

best of luck!

 

You did not specify what year truck this engine/trans is in, but it doesn't make that much difference. Getting a 300 out on a 79 or older, will require removing the hood or radiator support, whether the trans is attached or not. The front of the rad support is rather high, so getting the engine high enough to clear is not that easy. Even moreso with the trans still attached.
I'm not sure if there is enough room between the firewall and rad support on any year truck, to tilt the engine far enough to get it out with a trans attached. The 300 is both tall and long
As such, getting the radiator support out of the way would likely be the best route to take. Doing this would allow leaving the hood in place, and reduce the total hieght the engine/trans has to go before coming out. Prolly a good thing, considering how most junkyards don't have the smoothest or levelest surfaces to work on, making hoist stability decrease as lift height increases.
If the junkyard will allow you to cut out the top of the rad support, that would help. But, few will allow this to occur, unless the rad support is rusted/damaged beyond use.

When I pulled my engine and trans, I removed the rad support and left the hood in place. I also dropped the trans 1st, mainly because I had access to a lift and tall trans jack. I could have left the rad support in place, and removed the hood, but the engine going in requires the rad support to be removed anyways, with or without the hood in place. Plus, I plan to stab the engine and trans as an assembly, so I can get the mounts and driveline angle correctly set. But, I am going with a rather unique powertrain combo......

 

Thanks! All good info! I am pulling this from a 07/1976 production F150

 

I've pulled the engine out of mine without removing the hood or the radiator support. However, I haven't done that with the transmission attached.

If it's a manual trans, you'll also have to contend with the shifter.

 

Luckily its an AT

 

I pulled the whole front end off. Made my life a lot easier, especially if you're pulling the engine and the trans.

Attachment 291305

If you go this route, I suggest you get yourself a helping hand. There will be bolts in these locations. You'll need a sawzall for the radiator support mounts.

Attachment 291306

 

This looks great! Plenty of room to work! Thanks.

Now for my next question....

I do not see any eyelets attached to the motor to hook up a engine hoist. This motor is missing the intake manifold. I can wrap around the exhaust manifold, however would prefer to get something hooked up to front/back and perhaps each side for stability...any suggestions? I'll most likely be slicing up some safety belts from other donor cars to use as straps

 

What I did on mine was go down to the hardware store and bought about 10 feet of heavy duty chain. Then, on opposite corners, run a bolt through the eyelets of the chain and into the block. You can use the boltholes where the manifolds bolt to, and where accessories such as the power steering pump, coil, etc. bolt to. It worked very well.

 

Lift it from the bolt that mounts the coil and one of the intake manifold studs.

 

Thanks everyone for the pics and comments! I feel confident to go pull it now.

 

I simply removed the rad support.
For the engine hoist, I hooked a chain from the A/C bracket (front pass side) to a bellhousing bolt hole (top/drivers side) and lifted it up about a foot to clear the crossmember and front bumper.




That is all the higher I had to go with the hoist. Made it far more stable than raising it high enough to go over the rad support.....
Engine was pulled with all accessories still in place.
I figured might as well pull the rad support from the start, since it needs to come out before the new engine can go in. It's getting replaced by this: