Need some clarification, please.

'09 E-250 Van. 4.6, 4R75E, 4:10's,,,,,,,.

Owner's Manual says, use Motorcraft Mercon LV ATF 4

Factory Service manual says, use Motorcraft Mercon LV ATF XT-10-QLV

Couple of dealers say, all they use is Motorcraft Mercon LV Neither one knew what the "4" or "XT-10-QLV" stood for,,,,,,,,, but sure stressed the "LV".

Want to drop the pan, do a simple Motorcraft fluid/filter change, and weld a small pipe nipple, with an allen head plug on the lowest part of the pan, to make future drains simpler.

Ok, can you 'experts' explain to me what all that 'jargon' means, please?

Thanks.

 

Not sure how to clarify the issue of different appearing fluid specs---perhaps our resident trans expert Mark Kovalsky will add his expertise soon. (He's a former FoMoCo transmission engineer.)

As for the pan drain issues: Ford makes a pan with built-in drain plug so you can avoid that as an add-on. I did this my own self using a Quick-Changer oil pan coupler, seen here: Unique Truck Equipment

I used those because already have one in the engine oil pan so made sense to be able to use the other end required when changing fluids.

Mark K and most others will advise the best auto trans service is a complete fluid flush which doesn't include changing the internal filter. Its a lifetime part and serves no real benefit changing it. Mark authored a how-to on DIY fluid flush, can't find that link at this moment but here's something useful in the interim: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...and-video.html

HTH

 

See the correct information in my post below.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.


The local auto parts stores that carry Motorcraft brand oils/ATF, NONE had a "4" or that "XT-10-QLV" printed anywhere on the bottles.


Advanced brand ATF has "LV4" on the label. Wal-Mart's brand has the "LV4" on their label. I don't want to mix discount brands with the factory fill, since I don't know anything about them.


I don't understand why the Owner's Manual says to use Motorcraft Mercon LV ATF4. Then the factory Service Manual says to use Motorcraft Mercon LV ATF XT-10-QLV. Two different Ford Dealers say they never heard of the "4" or the "XT-10-QLV". Both stressed, Motorcraft Mercon LV in the 4R75E trans.


I just want to make sure to get the right fluid.


How do I get ahold of the resident trans expert Mark Kovalsky?


EVERY vehicle I have ever had since the '60's, that has a auto trans, I've welded a pipe nipple/collar on the pan for a easy drain plug. I have several made up ready to weld on, laying in a drawer.


Thanks again.

 

Didn't Mark Kovalsky post just about your post? And maybe provide some insight?

 

Y'know your right. He 'did' respond. I'm reading replys/comments more than I read who posted them. Sorry, my mistake.


However. More questions are now raised than awnsers. Confusing.


I was told, "never" mix Motorcraft Mercon V with LV.


Why is factory printed reference material, recommend a comsumer use two different products in the same item? Dealers strongly say use something else? Now a forum expert says, use another,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,?

 

I went and downloaded the owner's manual for a 2009 E-250. It DOES say to use MERCON LV ATF in the 4R75E. It DOES NOT say to use ATF4. That little "4" you see after the ATF is a superscript. That means there is more information under Note 4. Here is Note 4:
Do not mix MERCON V and MERCON LV.

You need MERCON LV ATF. You will only find XT-10-QLV on a Motorcraft bottle since that's a Motorcraft part number. You don't have to use Motorcraft fluids, but you do need to use MERCON LV fluid.

 

Mr. Kolvaski. Thank YOU for explaining it in 'laymans terms'.


I totally understand now what all the 'jargon' means, thanks again.


I'll stick with the Motorcraft brand for now

 

Don't you hate it when engineers get snippy because THEIR college edu-ma-cated instructions don't make sense. Why is it Old Dodge and GM transmissions can be rebuilt in an afternoon--at home and Ford Transmissions overwhelmingly have more failures and come-backs after "repairs," and always require special tools. I am pointing here to the disaster-box of the AOD--the AXOD and there subsequent "E" versions. And now some bright smiling college educated genius decided transmissions need 6 (6F35) 8 and even 10 different gears, and-- silly me--you never have to change oil on them! The dip-ity-doos geniuses that designed them don't even give you a dipstick!

Hell it took them 40 years to get the reliable transmissions with 4 gears. What kind of a pop-corn-parts box ---dumping aluminum case pieces behind the car/truck--- do they get with 6, 8 ,or 10? This is not rocket science folks! Automatic transmissions have been made now for over 70 years. You'd think they could make one reliable--all the time--and get it right.
Gee, I wish I had the 727 in my old D250! Reliable work horse that never dies! Even an old C4, C-6, TH350 or TH400 was better than what we have today. Cheaper to overhaul too!
And if you thought that was bad---(Lord have mercy!) Now we have CVT transmissions. Ford Dealer says--$12,000 for a Nissan CVT in a Ford Escape Hybrid. Yeah! You'd think engineers would understand that replacement cycles on belt drive motorcycles prove metal Belt CVTs would be a bad way to go. Psst: Anyone try rubber/glass belts on CVTs in cars? I don't see how it can get any worse! Fred Flintstone tennis shoes anyone?

 

Yes! MoPar's 727 transmissions, (iron, and loom-num. WV talk for 'aluminum') were simple design tough old birds! Could handle the power of the 440 6-pac, 426 Hemi motors with ease! Also 440 motors in cop cars, (think "Blues Brothers" movie) and big motorhomes!
The 'iron' 727 (weighed almost as much as a complete 265/283 SBC motor) started in in late '56 to '61, in the 'Mighty Chrysler 300 Letter series and the DeSoto Adventure series. '55 Chrysler C-300, first American production car to hit 300 HP! '56 Chrysler 300-B (special optioned high performance motor package) first production car to have 1 HP per cubic inch! '57 DeSoto Adventure, first production car to have 1 HP per cubic inch as 'standard equipment'! (whether you wanted it or not) Those 'iron' cased 727's handled all that car's weight and 1st generation Hemi's weight with ease!
When the '62 aluminum cased 727's (stronger yet) came about. The fluid/filter change, band adjustment, and the torque converter fluid drain, could all be done at the same time! If one wanted to modify the shifting points, enhance the performance!? As you said, a back yard mechanic, could install a 'shift kit' in the valve body (right there easy access, when the filter is removed), and change the fluid from the recommended "Dexron" Series, to plain Type F! WOW!
But the folks who drove the NY'ers and Imperials, didn't liked to have the tires 'chirp' during normal shifting! Wasn't 'dignified'.

 

With the Mark Kovalski method, about how much fluid is expelled before bubbles show in the line? Definitely cut the engine at 4 quarts?

Sixto
07 E350 5.4 178K miles

 

Having already done this twice on 4R70W's it would be no more than 4 quarts before bubbles appear in the line. I watched mine quite carefully, had run enough tubing to see the fluid flowing out while standing near the driver's door ready to kill the ignition switch.

My 5 gallon catch can had been DIY marked to show approximate quarts (in gallons) it had captured but honestly I didn't put a lot of importance on replacing the exact same amount as removed; adding 4 quarts each interval seemed to do the trick for me.

Photos of my catch can are here:




Note: The above image shows initial draining of the transmission pan in order to first replace the filter. I don't have photos showing how I configured my drain lines in order to see bubbles in the clear tubing.

These images show the various tubes & fittings I used for my flush:

 

Interesting, my 2006 E350 4R75 calls out for Mercon V not the Mercon LV mentioned in Marks comment post 7. Ford must have changed the recommended fluid. I was told by Oreillys the LV was lower viscosity for better mileage....I'm sticking with Mercon V.
Maybe this will help someone as it is confusing...
Old thread but it got me searching....

 

I have a 08 Lincoln Town Car with the 4R75E trans the owners book calls for Mercon V. I have 19,000 on the car and want to change fluid. Mercon V or LV? also should i do a complete flush or just drop pan?

 

At that low mileage it doesn't matter if you do a full flush or just drop the pan. The fluid that's in it is fine and doesn't need to be changed.