4R100 Automatic Transmission flush-pics and video
#1
02-10-2013, 07:07 PM
4R100 Automatic Transmission flush-pics and video
I posted this up in my thread, but since I couldn't a thread concerning this service that had pics, I figured I might as well post it in a new thread so that it will be easier to search and locate. Here is Mark K's instructions
I serviced the transmission today following Mark K's instructions. I wanted to go with Mobil 1 synthetic, but couldn't make myself spring for it. I ended up using Valvoline full synthetic, which was labeled for imports, but included Ford Mercon V on the back. It was $7 per quart vs $10 for Mobil 1. On top of that, because they didn't have 20 quarts in stock, he knocked off about 20% since I waited for them to deliver from the other store. Fluid cost was $125 after taxes.
First step for me was to drop the pan because I wanted to replace the filter and check out the magnet. Drain the fluid from the pan then remove all of the bolts holding the pan to the transmission. I didn't count them, but there are about 20.
All of the bolts were very easy to remove. Broke them loose and they all came out by hand. One of the benefits of a Texas truck
The valve body
The fluid was much darker than what I thought from looking at the dipstick.
The magnet, well it was magnetizing. I know that I can expect a little bit of fuzz, but I was a little shocked. Then again, 225k, if the pan has never been dropped, and the magnet never cleaned, maybe it isn't all that much.
Magnet and pan all cleaned up
I pulled the filter out by simply pulling straight down. Unfortunately, I was a little worried that I didn't have the right filter to put back. The guy asked me if it was shallow or deep pan, and from reading i know some guys go with an after maret deep pan. So I chose shallow. Here's the difference.
I made the call to reuse the old filter. I'll change it out at the next flush.
So buttoned the pan back up with the old filter and got ready for the flush. Disconnect the return line from the cooler. It's the line on the passenger side towards the rear.
Pull it out and put a hose over it. I had 3/8" and 1/2" hose, neither fit like I had hoped. The 3/8 was just too small to get over the flare. The 1/2" was just too big, so I used a hose clamp right on the flare, and it worked for the most part but still leaked a little. I ran the hose over into my bucket which was marked with gallons on the side so that I knew how much came out and how much needed to go back in. It was still a guessing game because I couldn't drain the pan into the bucket, and there was already old fluid in the drain pan from the power steering flush last week.
I estimated 5 quarts to put back in the pan to get started.
Crank the engine and watch the hose. As soon as you see the first air bubble in the hose turn the truck off. Check the side of the bucket to see how much you pumped out. I pumped a gallon and a half. So 6 quarts back in the pan. Repeat. This time I shifted through all of the fears for a few seconds each to let the valves open and release the old fluid. Added a few more quarts, then started again. I took a video of the final pump out. Remember not to pump out more than what you have left to put back in. I had to go get another three quarts to finish topping it off.
Notice I shut it off before seeing any air. Don't want to waste too much fluid at $7 a quart. Remove the hose and replace the return line. Finish topping off the trans to the proper level and you're done.
One last thing. I noticed when trying to top off, it was hard to tell what was on the dipstick from the actual level in the pan vs the residue left in the tube. Here's what I noticed
The small octagonal honeycomb like divots in the dipstick actually grab and hold fluid. If a row of divots was submerged in fluid, they would all be holding fluid. Simple way of determining what is actual reading vs residue from the tube.
And that's that, thanks Mark K for the original write up.
By Mark Kovalsky
I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.
Things you need to get started:
The E4OD and 4R100 transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON ATF [For the 4R100, use MERCON V]. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements.
The 4R70W transmission system holds about 14 quarts of ATF. The 4R70W uses MERCON V, and the MERCON V can be used on older 4R70W transmissions that were factory filled with MERCON.
I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
If you are changing the filter, drain the pan if your pan has a drain plug. If you are not changing the filter, jump to step 4.
If you don't have a drain plug, go to step 4 to pump out the pan, preventing an ATF shower! Return here after step 4 and one pass through step 5a.
Remove the pan and clean the pan and gasket, including the magnet on the bottom of the pan. Fuzz on the magnet is normal, that's why it is there!
Change the filter. It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.
Replace the pan, using the reusable gasket.
At this point you can drain the torque converter. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (or the rubber plug in some models) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you also drain the torque converter, then the old ATF will not come out the return line until after the torque converter has filled.
If you drained the pan, pour new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube until you have added about as much as you earlier drained from the pan. At this point overfilling by no more than one quart won't hurt anything.
Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the fluid comes out.
This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine. Refill through the dipstick tube with the same amount as you just pumped out.
NOTE: If you drained the pan and the torque converter, fluid will not run out until you fill the pan a second time. Run the engine for 30 seconds, then stop and add six more quarts.
Repeat step 5 until you have added 19 quarts with of new ATF to the system with an E4OD or 4R100. Repeat until you have added 13 quarts with the 4R70W.
At least one time while the engine is running move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
Check the fluid level and use the last quart to top off.
Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
I've done this alone. It's easier with a second person, and sometimes helps prevent spills.
Things you need to get started:
The E4OD and 4R100 transmission system holds almost 18 quarts of ATF, and you must waste a couple of quarts to be sure you get it all purged and replaced, so buy 20 quarts of MERCON ATF [For the 4R100, use MERCON V]. You may use either conventional or synthetic, as long as it meets the above requirements.
The 4R70W transmission system holds about 14 quarts of ATF. The 4R70W uses MERCON V, and the MERCON V can be used on older 4R70W transmissions that were factory filled with MERCON.
I replace the transmission filter every other fluid change. Note that Ford does not recommend ever changing the filter. I've opened filters with over 300,000 miles that were not even close to being clogged.
Don't buy a new pan gasket. The original is reusable.
A 10 foot length of clear tubing and one hose clamp, sized to fit over your cooler hose. There have been different size cooler lines over the years, so check before buying!
If you don't already have a special funnel that fits into the transmission dipstick tube, then you will need one of those, too.
If you are changing the filter, drain the pan if your pan has a drain plug. If you are not changing the filter, jump to step 4.
If you don't have a drain plug, go to step 4 to pump out the pan, preventing an ATF shower! Return here after step 4 and one pass through step 5a.
Remove the pan and clean the pan and gasket, including the magnet on the bottom of the pan. Fuzz on the magnet is normal, that's why it is there!
Change the filter. It just pulls out, there are no bolts that hold it. It is held in place by the pan. Make sure that the O-ring is removed, too. Sometimes it does not come out with the filter.
Replace the pan, using the reusable gasket.
At this point you can drain the torque converter. Some people think it is necessary, but I don't. Running the engine in the next steps will pump the fluid out of the torque converter. If your transmission was built after August 2001, you don't have a drain plug in the torque converter.
To drain the torque converter remove the shield (or the rubber plug in some models) and turn the flywheel until you see the drain plug. If you also drain the torque converter, then the old ATF will not come out the return line until after the torque converter has filled.
If you drained the pan, pour new ATF into the filler [dipstick] tube until you have added about as much as you earlier drained from the pan. At this point overfilling by no more than one quart won't hurt anything.
Disconnect the transmission-fluid return line at the transmission - from where the ATF returns to the transmission from the cooler. This is the line towards the rear of the transmission. Clamp the clear tubing over the line that you removed from the transmission. This is where the fluid comes out.
This is where the second person comes in handy. One person starts the engine, while the other holds the line over the drain bucket. A clothes pin can replace the person holding the line in the bucket.
Run the engine until you see some air in the clear tubing. As soon as you see air shut off the engine. Refill through the dipstick tube with the same amount as you just pumped out.
NOTE: If you drained the pan and the torque converter, fluid will not run out until you fill the pan a second time. Run the engine for 30 seconds, then stop and add six more quarts.
Repeat step 5 until you have added 19 quarts with of new ATF to the system with an E4OD or 4R100. Repeat until you have added 13 quarts with the 4R70W.
At least one time while the engine is running move the shifter through each position from P to 1, pausing about 5 seconds at each position. This will change some fluid that would otherwise be trapped in the valve body, accumulators, and clutches.
Remove the clear line and reconnect the cooler line to the transmission.
Check the fluid level and use the last quart to top off.
Properly dispose of the used transmission fluid.
Congratulate yourself! And your engine starter/killer person.
First step for me was to drop the pan because I wanted to replace the filter and check out the magnet. Drain the fluid from the pan then remove all of the bolts holding the pan to the transmission. I didn't count them, but there are about 20.
All of the bolts were very easy to remove. Broke them loose and they all came out by hand. One of the benefits of a Texas truck
The valve body
The fluid was much darker than what I thought from looking at the dipstick.
The magnet, well it was magnetizing. I know that I can expect a little bit of fuzz, but I was a little shocked. Then again, 225k, if the pan has never been dropped, and the magnet never cleaned, maybe it isn't all that much.
Magnet and pan all cleaned up
I pulled the filter out by simply pulling straight down. Unfortunately, I was a little worried that I didn't have the right filter to put back. The guy asked me if it was shallow or deep pan, and from reading i know some guys go with an after maret deep pan. So I chose shallow. Here's the difference.
I made the call to reuse the old filter. I'll change it out at the next flush.
So buttoned the pan back up with the old filter and got ready for the flush. Disconnect the return line from the cooler. It's the line on the passenger side towards the rear.
Pull it out and put a hose over it. I had 3/8" and 1/2" hose, neither fit like I had hoped. The 3/8 was just too small to get over the flare. The 1/2" was just too big, so I used a hose clamp right on the flare, and it worked for the most part but still leaked a little. I ran the hose over into my bucket which was marked with gallons on the side so that I knew how much came out and how much needed to go back in. It was still a guessing game because I couldn't drain the pan into the bucket, and there was already old fluid in the drain pan from the power steering flush last week.
I estimated 5 quarts to put back in the pan to get started.
Crank the engine and watch the hose. As soon as you see the first air bubble in the hose turn the truck off. Check the side of the bucket to see how much you pumped out. I pumped a gallon and a half. So 6 quarts back in the pan. Repeat. This time I shifted through all of the fears for a few seconds each to let the valves open and release the old fluid. Added a few more quarts, then started again. I took a video of the final pump out. Remember not to pump out more than what you have left to put back in. I had to go get another three quarts to finish topping it off.
Notice I shut it off before seeing any air. Don't want to waste too much fluid at $7 a quart. Remove the hose and replace the return line. Finish topping off the trans to the proper level and you're done.
One last thing. I noticed when trying to top off, it was hard to tell what was on the dipstick from the actual level in the pan vs the residue left in the tube. Here's what I noticed
The small octagonal honeycomb like divots in the dipstick actually grab and hold fluid. If a row of divots was submerged in fluid, they would all be holding fluid. Simple way of determining what is actual reading vs residue from the tube.
And that's that, thanks Mark K for the original write up.
The following 4 users liked this post by jeffreyt:
#2
02-10-2013, 07:34 PM
#3
02-10-2013, 10:06 PM
Thanks Bob.
So can anyone confirm for me for next time that I need the filter for the deep pan, which i'm assuming is the filter that was in the pan to begin with? The picture of the two filters above is the old filter on the right and the new filter on the left. The only difference is how far the oval tube extends down into the pan.
Second question is, assuming this is the first time the pan has been dropped, is the amount of "fuz" on the magnet anything to be concerned about?
I also experienced MUCH smoother shifts today. None of this "it might be in my head" stuff. It made a huge difference.
So can anyone confirm for me for next time that I need the filter for the deep pan, which i'm assuming is the filter that was in the pan to begin with? The picture of the two filters above is the old filter on the right and the new filter on the left. The only difference is how far the oval tube extends down into the pan.
Second question is, assuming this is the first time the pan has been dropped, is the amount of "fuz" on the magnet anything to be concerned about?
I also experienced MUCH smoother shifts today. None of this "it might be in my head" stuff. It made a huge difference.
#4
02-10-2013, 10:29 PM
All 4R100's have the deep pan filter. That goes for the 4x2 and 4x4. The deep and shallow pan versions come from the E4OD options. I have never understood why the parts industry hasn't got their info straight.
I wouldn't fret over the fuzz. Just run it and see what she looks like next time around.
I wouldn't fret over the fuzz. Just run it and see what she looks like next time around.
#5
02-10-2013, 10:34 PM
All 4R100's have the deep pan filter. That goes for the 4x2 and 4x4. The deep and shallow pan versions come from the E4OD options. I have never understood why the parts industry hasn't got their info straight.
I wouldn't fret over the fuzz. Just run it and see what she looks like next time around.
I wouldn't fret over the fuzz. Just run it and see what she looks like next time around.
#6
02-11-2013, 12:22 AM
So it's not only because of the E4OD options.
Stewart
#7
02-11-2013, 12:22 AM
EDIT: Inserting this post into the thread for future users who continue to question Ford superseding Mercon with Mercon V
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TSB
06-14-4 MERCON ATF IS BEING REPLACED BY MERCON V ATF AS A SERVICE FLUID.
Publication Date: June 29, 2006
FORD: 1980-1997 Crown Victoria
1981-1997 Mustang, Thunderbird
1981-2003 Escort
1986-1993 Festiva
1986-1997 Taurus
1989-1997 Probe
1994-1997 Aspire
1995-2000 Contour
1980-1996 Bronco
1981-2003 F-150
1981-2004 E-Series, F-Super Duty
1983-1996 Ranger
1986-1996 Aerostar
1991-1997 Explorer
1993-2004 F-53 Motorhome Chassis
1995-1998 Windstar
1997-2004 Expedition
2000-2005 Excursion
2001-2007 Escape
1987-2000 F- & B-Series
2000-2007 F-650, F-750
LINCOLN: 1980-1997 Town Car
1981-1997 Continental
1993-1997 Mark VIII
1998-2004 Navigator
2002-2003 Blackwood
MERCURY: 1980-1997 Grand Marquis
1981-1997 Cougar
1986-1997 Sable
1987-1999 Tracer
1995-2000 Mystique
1999-2002 Cougar
1993-2002 Villager
1997 Mountaineer
2005-2007 Mariner
MERKUR: 1985-1989 XR4TI
This article supersedes TSB 01-15-7 to update the vehicle application chart.
ISSUE:
MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid is being replaced by MERCON® V as a service fluid.
ACTION:
Beginning immediately all automatic transmission / transaxle applications requiring MERCON® can now be serviced using MERCON® V or MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid or dual usage fluids labeled MERCON® / MERCON® V. After July 1, 2007, MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid will no longer be manufactured, therefore, availability of this fluid will only continue for however long it takes to deplete what remains in inventory.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Service automatic transmissions requiring MERCON® with MERCON® V or MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid or dual usage fluids labeled MERCON® / MERCON® V
For proper fluid application on current and past model vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions / transaxles refer to the fluid usage chart. (Figure 1)
CAUTION: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSAXLES THAT REQUIRE MERCON® V SHOULD STILL ONLY USE MERCON® V OR DUAL USAGE FLUID LABELED MERCON® / MERCON® V.
CAUTION: MERCON® SP, MOTORCRAFT PREMIUM AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID AND MOTORCRAFT M5 ATFS ARE UNIQUE FLUIDS AND MUST BE USED IN APPLICATIONS RECOMMENDING THAT PARTICULAR FLUID. USE OF ANY OTHER FLUID MAY CAUSE REDUCED FUNCTIONALITY OR TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.
CAUTION: THE FUNCTIONAL CHARACTERISTICS OF FLUIDS FOR CVT TRANSMISSIONS ARE VERY DIFFERENT THAN THOSE OF OTHER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUIDS (ATFS). USE OF A FLUID OTHER THAN MOTORCRAFT CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE CHAIN TYPE TRANSMISSION FLUID OR ONE LABELED AS MEETING MERCON® C WILL CAUSE FUNCTIONALITY CONCERNS AND INTERNAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID SUPPLEMENTS, ADDITIVES, TREATMENTS OR CLEANING AGENTS.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
XT-2-QDX MERCON® (Quart)
XT-2-DDX MERCON® (55 Gal. Drum)
XT-5-QM MERCON® V (Quart)
XT-5-DM MERCON® V (55 Gal. Drum)
WARRANTY STATUS:
Information Only
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stewart
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
TSB
06-14-4 MERCON ATF IS BEING REPLACED BY MERCON V ATF AS A SERVICE FLUID.
Publication Date: June 29, 2006
FORD: 1980-1997 Crown Victoria
1981-1997 Mustang, Thunderbird
1981-2003 Escort
1986-1993 Festiva
1986-1997 Taurus
1989-1997 Probe
1994-1997 Aspire
1995-2000 Contour
1980-1996 Bronco
1981-2003 F-150
1981-2004 E-Series, F-Super Duty
1983-1996 Ranger
1986-1996 Aerostar
1991-1997 Explorer
1993-2004 F-53 Motorhome Chassis
1995-1998 Windstar
1997-2004 Expedition
2000-2005 Excursion
2001-2007 Escape
1987-2000 F- & B-Series
2000-2007 F-650, F-750
LINCOLN: 1980-1997 Town Car
1981-1997 Continental
1993-1997 Mark VIII
1998-2004 Navigator
2002-2003 Blackwood
MERCURY: 1980-1997 Grand Marquis
1981-1997 Cougar
1986-1997 Sable
1987-1999 Tracer
1995-2000 Mystique
1999-2002 Cougar
1993-2002 Villager
1997 Mountaineer
2005-2007 Mariner
MERKUR: 1985-1989 XR4TI
This article supersedes TSB 01-15-7 to update the vehicle application chart.
ISSUE:
MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid is being replaced by MERCON® V as a service fluid.
ACTION:
Beginning immediately all automatic transmission / transaxle applications requiring MERCON® can now be serviced using MERCON® V or MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid or dual usage fluids labeled MERCON® / MERCON® V. After July 1, 2007, MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid will no longer be manufactured, therefore, availability of this fluid will only continue for however long it takes to deplete what remains in inventory.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
Service automatic transmissions requiring MERCON® with MERCON® V or MERCON® Automatic Transmission Fluid or dual usage fluids labeled MERCON® / MERCON® V
For proper fluid application on current and past model vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions / transaxles refer to the fluid usage chart. (Figure 1)
CAUTION: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSAXLES THAT REQUIRE MERCON® V SHOULD STILL ONLY USE MERCON® V OR DUAL USAGE FLUID LABELED MERCON® / MERCON® V.
CAUTION: MERCON® SP, MOTORCRAFT PREMIUM AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID AND MOTORCRAFT M5 ATFS ARE UNIQUE FLUIDS AND MUST BE USED IN APPLICATIONS RECOMMENDING THAT PARTICULAR FLUID. USE OF ANY OTHER FLUID MAY CAUSE REDUCED FUNCTIONALITY OR TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.
CAUTION: THE FUNCTIONAL CHARACTERISTICS OF FLUIDS FOR CVT TRANSMISSIONS ARE VERY DIFFERENT THAN THOSE OF OTHER AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUIDS (ATFS). USE OF A FLUID OTHER THAN MOTORCRAFT CONTINUOUSLY VARIABLE CHAIN TYPE TRANSMISSION FLUID OR ONE LABELED AS MEETING MERCON® C WILL CAUSE FUNCTIONALITY CONCERNS AND INTERNAL TRANSMISSION DAMAGE.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID SUPPLEMENTS, ADDITIVES, TREATMENTS OR CLEANING AGENTS.
PART NUMBER PART NAME
XT-2-QDX MERCON® (Quart)
XT-2-DDX MERCON® (55 Gal. Drum)
XT-5-QM MERCON® V (Quart)
XT-5-DM MERCON® V (55 Gal. Drum)
WARRANTY STATUS:
Information Only
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; 02-17-2018 at 02:04 PM.
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#11
02-11-2013, 06:44 AM
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#12
02-11-2013, 07:01 AM
Well, part of the reason is because the 4R100 in the Gen 2 Lightning has a shallow pan, and uses the shallow filter. One of the most common mods is to pull the pan and upgrade to the 4x4 pan, and of course, the deep filter.
So it's not only because of the E4OD options.
Stewart
So it's not only because of the E4OD options.
Stewart
Edit: obviously the best place to look for a replacement is BTS or JW, but if we need a core or something to get us by for a while, what all should we be looking for at a junkyard?
#14
02-11-2013, 08:03 AM
If you are looking for a trans to use with a 7.3L you MUST use a trans from a 7.3L. Nothing else will bolt to the engine. The rear face of block on the 7.3L is different from anything else Ford made.
#15
02-11-2013, 08:06 AM