The Yard Store had it in 20' lengths. Pretty tough for me to transport that size, so I had them cut it down to lengths that would work for my design and be easy to transport.

It's new steel.

Just got back in from the shop doing some TIG practice. Joined some 1/8 scrap without filler rod and also practiced feeding filler. I still need to work on no dipping the tungsten, but I'm getting better.

The current plan for the stand is to use the MIG to tack it and then finish weld with the TIG.

That't the plan anyway..

 

Good idea.
You will get the hang of TIG, and those practice beads will serve you well.
Probably be one of the nicest test stands we've ever seen.

I never meant to say your stock was used, just surplus.

 

Nor did I really mean used. But pre-sold stock can be really good.

So, load the test stand in the truck when you come to the GTG? Would love to see it.

 

I actually did a little work on the stand today, or at least the pre-stand design..

Since the stand width has to be accurate, I decided to start by making the engine supports. I got as far as drilling out some 2" angle and got distracted by a household chore.

I did find that the previous owner of my home did some odd wiring in the shop. I've been running the welder on a 115v 15 amp circuit and it's shared with the AC. To run the welder, I need to shut down the AC. So I came up with a plan.

There was an unused 220v outlet, but it was wired with a 20 amp outlet. I checked the wiring and he used 10g. That is sufficient for a 30 amp circuit and he, in fact, had a 30 amp breaker in the line. So, I decided to replace the outlet.

The welder has a 50 amp plug, although it is rated at 30 amps. After reviewing the NEC regarding welders, it turns out that based on the duty cycle of the welder, I can keep the 10g wire and put in a 50 amp outlet and breaker, marking it for WELDER ONLY.

I'll get that done in the morning and then I'll have a proper circuit for the TIG welder. I also need to pick up a step drill; I still need to drill some brackets and it's slow going with the drill bit set I have. I'm hoping that a step drill will help.

I also got to try out a new toy for the TIG; a tig pen. It lets me feed filler by holding a pen-like device and turning a wheel. Makes feeding MUCH easier for me.

I have to go to work early tomorrow for court, but then don't go back in until 1am.

The current plan is to get up early, get the electric work done and the motor brackets made (I'll get some pics posted). Then I can take a nap, go to court, take another nap and then head to my shift.

That's the plan...

 

Sounds like a good plan. Well thought out.

 

The best laid plans..

I did manage to get my electrical work done in the shop today. I have a dedicated 220v circuit for the welders now.

I also started making the engine support brackets for the engine stand. It's then when things went south..

My bandsaw isn't cutting at a perfect 90, but it isn't that far off. I tacked things together, but there were a few small gaps. All's good though, I thought. I'll just use the MIG welder since it likes a little gap.

In the process of getting things moved around for the electric work, I moved my MIG settings somehow and my wire feed speed was way off. Needless to say, I didn't check it first. In the process of welding the first bracket, I decided to compensate and slow down. Too much heat, tube warped too much and one bracket ruined..

So now for the new plan..

I have all the measurements I need so I'll re-make the bracket tomorrow. I'll also square up the tube better and clamp things to the table to minimize deflection. I'm also going to run some test beads on some scrap tube joints and make sure all my settings are right.

One step forward, two back..

 

The issue with the band saw is why I have a new one. Got tired of having to the the cuts up.

 

I'm considering a metal cutting chop saw..

 

Been there, done that. Worse, by far, than a bad band saw. The blade always deflects and causes curved cuts.

 

So what's the solution; a better band saw? If so, any recommendations?

Yes, mine is the Harbor Freight one, but the one the Yard Store used did the same thing. Maybe just a better blade and more careful setup

 

I tried everything I could do but couldn't get my el cheapo say to cut square. Bought a Jet and the problem is solved. I'll get the model number on it tomorrow.

 

I've seen the Jet ones at The Big Tool Store. The 5x6 one is about $600. I also looked at the SouthBend that Grizzly sells. Now THAT looks like a nice saw.

Maybe someday, but for now I think I'll need to make my red Chinese one work.

On another note, I was sitting hear wondering why my MIG was sputtering so bad. Then it hit me. I'm an idiot. I forgot to clean the steel!!

2" Angle is incredibly dirty and the 2" tube had a coating on it as well. Just as a test, I ran out to the shop and cleaned off some of the scrap. Set the welder for 1/8" and feed of 90 (Miller 140). Worked like a champ and I was even able to 'stitch' some nice Mig like Tig beads.

SO...

Tomorrow is a new day.. Cleaning off the parts and then welding them up. Of course I do need to make one more bracket. The Step drill bit I picked up today works great to make those 1/2" holes in the angle. Of course my drill press needs replacing..

Hmm..

Maybe more tools in my future. I'll need to sell a gun or two to make that happen though.

 

I have used both metal chop saw and band saw. I find if you take it slow both will cut straight, just can't hog the cuts.


Which engine mounts are you using on your test stand. I know through the years Ford had 3 different engine mounts for the I6 engine...
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...een-years.html

The 92's pedestal style mounts may be easier to install on your test stand than the others.

 

I made my own mounts. Just some 2" angle iron, with a 2" square tube welded to it. I used the angle iron so it would go over the top of the tube and provide some mechanical support as well.

That said, I am rethinking my design due to two issues. The first was that I made a cross support that goes under the oil pan, but I made the tolerance too tight and the new mount won't slip onto the engine. It get's hung up on the edge of the oil pan. I cut the support and am considering other options.

The other issue is that the welds on the tube are fine, but the ones to the angle iron are just fugly.

I'm thinking of not going the angle iron route and either making a support that can use the factory engine mounts or going to plan C, what ever that is.