4.9 Rebuild
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From: Haysville, KS
4.9 Rebuild
I found a salvage yard 4.9 from an '85 E250 van. I plan to rebuild it and put it in my '85 F150 4x4.
The engine had air in manifold and the dreaded feedback carburetor. No worries since I'm replacing exhaust manifolds and going with a new intake and carburetor.
As I was tearing it down, I saw that the area were the fuel pump mounts is not machined out. I haven't checked the block numbers yet, but I'm assuming this is somehow an EFI block.
So - do I have the block machined to accept the mechanical pump or go with an electric pump? If electric - any tips? I assume I'll need to regulate the pressure from it and of course wire it so it's on when the key is on.
I'd rather stay with the mechanical and it doesn't SEEM too tough to machine it out.
Thoughts anyone?
Assuming this IS an EFI block, am I in for any more surprises?
Since it was carbed, I don't think it's an EFI head but who knows?
The engine had air in manifold and the dreaded feedback carburetor. No worries since I'm replacing exhaust manifolds and going with a new intake and carburetor.
As I was tearing it down, I saw that the area were the fuel pump mounts is not machined out. I haven't checked the block numbers yet, but I'm assuming this is somehow an EFI block.
So - do I have the block machined to accept the mechanical pump or go with an electric pump? If electric - any tips? I assume I'll need to regulate the pressure from it and of course wire it so it's on when the key is on.
I'd rather stay with the mechanical and it doesn't SEEM too tough to machine it out.
Thoughts anyone?
Assuming this IS an EFI block, am I in for any more surprises?
Since it was carbed, I don't think it's an EFI head but who knows?
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From: Haysville, KS
The plot thickens. The block casting number is F2TE-6015-BA. If I'm decoding it correctly, it would indicate the block is 1992.
I can mill it out for the fuel pump (or the machine shop can) and I would rather go that route than deal with electric pumps and getting the pressure right.
Anyone know how to tell if the head is EFI or Carb? All bets are off on this engine now..
I tore it down this afternoon. Just have to pull the balancer, mark the crank caps and then pull the crank.
Then it's off to the machine shop..
Assuming it is a 1992 block and the only difference is the fuel pump I should not have any issues. As to the heads, I'd rather not have them EFI...
The engine did have a carb intake so it's odd to say the least
I can mill it out for the fuel pump (or the machine shop can) and I would rather go that route than deal with electric pumps and getting the pressure right.
Anyone know how to tell if the head is EFI or Carb? All bets are off on this engine now..
I tore it down this afternoon. Just have to pull the balancer, mark the crank caps and then pull the crank.
Then it's off to the machine shop..
Assuming it is a 1992 block and the only difference is the fuel pump I should not have any issues. As to the heads, I'd rather not have them EFI...
The engine did have a carb intake so it's odd to say the least
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From: Haysville, KS
The combustion chamber in the head is heart shaped. From what I've read, that is an EFI head.
Since the engine had a carburetor on it when I got it, I'm thinking the PO did an engine swap at some point.
Unless I'm totally off on this.
I'm not sure how they did EFI in 92 but I'm guessing the intake had the same bolt pattern as the carb version, since the engine had a carb on it.
Wonder how well the engine with EFI head will work with a carb?
Since the engine had a carburetor on it when I got it, I'm thinking the PO did an engine swap at some point.
Unless I'm totally off on this.
I'm not sure how they did EFI in 92 but I'm guessing the intake had the same bolt pattern as the carb version, since the engine had a carb on it.
Wonder how well the engine with EFI head will work with a carb?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Wikipedia says "Fuel injection and other changes in 1987 pushed output up to 145 hp (108 kW) with 8.8:1 compression." Sounds like that was an increased CR, but I don't see what it was previously.
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From: Haysville, KS
From what I know, the EFI head did raise compression a bit. I also heard the EFI head is prone to cracking. I'm getting mine magna fluxed anyway so we'll were we are
Pretty sure this was a swap at some point. I'm 100% sure a 1992 block was not an option in 1985. That, or the guy who sold it to me was wrong as to what it came from..
In any case, as long as I can make it work well; reliable and good power, I'm ok with it.
Thinking Offy intake, EFI exhaust manifold, maybe a different cam.
All depends on what the machine shop finds I suppose
Pretty sure this was a swap at some point. I'm 100% sure a 1992 block was not an option in 1985. That, or the guy who sold it to me was wrong as to what it came from..
In any case, as long as I can make it work well; reliable and good power, I'm ok with it.
Thinking Offy intake, EFI exhaust manifold, maybe a different cam.
All depends on what the machine shop finds I suppose
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From: Skiatook, OK
You could just use an inline fuel pump. They are a little more expensive than the mechanicals, and once you get the milling done, and perhaps make sure there is a cam lobe to drive the pump, it might cost equal. I personally ran a 650 cfm on the cheapest electric fuel pump O'Reilly had. No return line needed, never a leak, never a problem.
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Posting Guru
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From: Haysville, KS
The issue with an electric fuel pump is getting the pressure regulated correctly so the carb doesn't flood. If I was putting on a 4b I might consider it.
Still doing some research on the best option, but milling out the slot for a mechanical pump doesn't seem like a complicated job. I could most likely do it with a drill and die grinder..
Still doing some research on the best option, but milling out the slot for a mechanical pump doesn't seem like a complicated job. I could most likely do it with a drill and die grinder..
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
As far as I am aware, the block is different only in the sense that the fuel pump hole was not machined out. Easy fix.
The head will have 3 extra holes for the intake/exhaust manifolds, if it's from an EFI engine. 13 = carbed, 16 = EFI. The 13 bolt holes are in the same place, the 3 extra holes just make it easier to install the 3 separate manifolds for EFI. If you intend to go with the EFI exhaust manifolds, having an EFI head will just make it easier to install them.
The head will have 3 extra holes for the intake/exhaust manifolds, if it's from an EFI engine. 13 = carbed, 16 = EFI. The 13 bolt holes are in the same place, the 3 extra holes just make it easier to install the 3 separate manifolds for EFI. If you intend to go with the EFI exhaust manifolds, having an EFI head will just make it easier to install them.
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From: Haysville, KS
The cam does appear to have a lob to drive the pump. I may end up replacing the cam and if I do, I'll be sure to make sure it works in that application.
The head does have 16 holes and I am considering EFI manifolds. I'm still undecided on carb / intake choice but I have a little time on that; not sure how long the machine shop will take.
I'm really just looking for decent performance across the board with good low end torque. Just a solid, dependable engine. If anyone has any intake / carb suggestions I'm all ears. I hear on a basically stock engine, i'm looking at around 300-400 cfm range?
The head does have 16 holes and I am considering EFI manifolds. I'm still undecided on carb / intake choice but I have a little time on that; not sure how long the machine shop will take.
I'm really just looking for decent performance across the board with good low end torque. Just a solid, dependable engine. If anyone has any intake / carb suggestions I'm all ears. I hear on a basically stock engine, i'm looking at around 300-400 cfm range?
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
I'm not experienced on the 300, but I do understand something about carb CFM ratings. And given that I'd stay away from a 2bbl and go with a small 4bbl. The reason is that you are always running on one set of venturii on the 2bbl, so they have to be small enough to give good economy and throttle response but at the same time large enough to allow the engine to wind up. But a 4bbl uses the primaries except when you need the extra CFM, so they can be both small enough for economy/throttle response but large enough for power.
The exception would be if you found a progressive 2bbl where you run on the primary, singular, until you need the power. Like some of the Webers. Here's a link about carb selection of the inline engines that may help.
The exception would be if you found a progressive 2bbl where you run on the primary, singular, until you need the power. Like some of the Webers. Here's a link about carb selection of the inline engines that may help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Lost
The Offy DP seems to be a popular choice with the guys in the straight six section.
These same guys also tend to report that a 600 CFM carb just works better than the 390-465 CFM models. No clue why, but many start with the smaller carb, and end up going to the larger one, and claim it just runs better all around. These are the guys with stock to lightly modded engines.
These same guys also tend to report that a 600 CFM carb just works better than the 390-465 CFM models. No clue why, but many start with the smaller carb, and end up going to the larger one, and claim it just runs better all around. These are the guys with stock to lightly modded engines.