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Old May 28, 2014 | 12:21 PM
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About FICM time

Guess I bought my Dashboss at the right time. I noticed my FICM voltage dropping to 44-45 volts the first 2-3 minutes running. After that it fluctuates between 47-48.5. Hopefully this this will last another month or so... Both batteries are new motorcraft batteries. I have yet to check the alternator tho.

Ed will be getting a call sooner that later I'm afraid.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 12:57 PM
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Ficmrepair.com is well worth it.

Given any thoughts to adding the Econ or Atlas 40 tunes?

Josh
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 01:06 PM
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First 2-3 minutes are when your glow plugs are drawing a bunch of power. You noticed this as soon as you started monitoring things? Or was it fine and now it has changed?

I'd look at the alternator, maybe it is a weak 110A unit...
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 01:30 PM
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Josh,

Yes I will likely spring for the Atlas 40, but will likely ask some options from those who tow a lot with it for their input. I am flirting with the idea of doing some RV transporting (still researching requirements) and don't want to limit my truck. I do have an EGT probe for my DB just need to get it installed.


diesel_dan,

Originally it was fluctuating between 47-48.5 at all times, but its pregresively getting worse. I am wondering how much heat is playing a roll in it getting worse??
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 02:15 PM
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I'm thinking econo-tune when it's time for mine to go to Ed. But like you I want to know how that will affect power for towing, etc.

If you aren't already, monitor your Voltages: Vbatt and at the ODBII port (not sure what these are called in DB) -- especially at cold start-up. Make sure you aren't hammering the FICM with low voltage for those first few minutes. A more powerful alternator might be in your future too...

Take care...
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 03:29 PM
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Weak alternators stress out FICM's and the 110amp unit is just too small to maintain FICM health as loads of folks can attest.

The smallest unit from DC Power puts out 100 amps at hot idle, 120 amps at cold. The 110 amp OEM unit puts out only 65 amps at hot idle, maybe 75 or so cold.

It's a world of difference. It would be curious to see if your FICM voltage recovers as soon as your battery voltage pops back up following your glow plugs shutting off (following that load going away). I bet it would, but the stress damage has been done. Sadly, it's time to replace parts on the module.

Ship it on over and we'll take great care of you, but please consider moving to a larger alternator at the same time. Of course, we could hook you up there as well.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 04:01 PM
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Ed, is this the unit you are referring to?

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Ford~...oduct_overview

Thanks sir!
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 04:23 PM
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It is indeed, though our price on that unit is $309.95 delivered, not $298, etc plus shipping.

That said, there are reasons to consider the 190HD unit or even larger depending on what you all have in the truck, etc. Whatever the unit, though, we'd give it to you for less than the DC Power advertised price.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by FICMrepair.com
It is indeed, though our price on that unit is $309.95 delivered, not $298, etc plus shipping.

That said, there are reasons to consider the 190HD unit or even larger depending on what you all have in the truck, etc. Whatever the unit, though, we'd give it to you for less than the DC Power advertised price.
Thank you Ed, I will get signed up for a paper route to fund the parts! lol.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 05:33 PM
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Looking forward to seeing it come in!

Ed
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 08:05 PM
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Just tested the Alt. 12.5 running for the first 2 min or so then bumped up to 13.75 where it held steady.

Batteries were 12.5 before starting.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by diesel_dan
I'm thinking econo-tune when it's time for mine to go to Ed. But like you I want to know how that will affect power for towing, etc.
I did the Atlas 40 and I tow a lot. The problem it made for me is that if I towed heavy I was nervous before I installed studs, because it isn't like you can remove that FICM program. I have to say nothing ever happened, but when you're towing 12,000 pounds or more with no head studs you don't really want that Atlas 40 IMO.
I did like it though, at first I didn't and thought my mpg was worse. After having it for a while and getting on it I then felt the power difference and my mpg seemed to improve slightly.
Personally I'd say if there's no chance of studs and you tow heavy, you might want the econo program.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by spdmpo
I did the Atlas 40 and I tow a lot. The problem it made for me is that if I towed heavy I was nervous before I installed studs, because it isn't like you can remove that FICM program. I have to say nothing ever happened, but when you're towing 12,000 pounds or more with no head studs you don't really want that Atlas 40 IMO.
I did like it though, at first I didn't and thought my mpg was worse. After having it for a while and getting on it I then felt the power difference and my mpg seemed to improve slightly.
Personally I'd say if there's no chance of studs and you tow heavy, you might want the econo program.
Good info thanks! Do you monitor EGT's? If so what were the highest temps while towing?
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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I did monitor EGTs and even in the mountains it would stay in the 1200 degree range on a real long pull. Normally the EGTs were right on.
 
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Old May 28, 2014 | 09:41 PM
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Thanks Keith! I'm not planning on studs, so I'll stick with stock or econo. I think we share the same paranoia ;-)

I don't have an EGT so that makes me worry even more. Our trailer isn't that heavy, but by the time we load the camper in the bed and hook the trailer on, the truck is working just pushing the "brick" through the wind!
 
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