STRANDED Vehicle - Power Steering - Tools Required?
Regardless, I will go home from the office this afternoon, change clothes, pick up tools, diagnose the root cause, and make the repairs in the parking lot... all hopefully before it gets dark. At least it will be cooled off (equipment, that is) by the time I start.
I've had the pump and bracket out before, but cannot remember what tools I needed to get the job done. In the name of minimizing time and beating the darkness, I really don't want to be doing the back and forth thing to get tools "I forgot" or "didn't know I needed". Below is what I'm planning to pick up from the house. Please review the list and let me know if I'm forgetting anything.
- auto tranny fluid
- complete set of metric and SAE sockets & wrenches
- pulley removal tool
- creeper
- hydraulic jack, jack stands, and wheel chock (I barely fit underneath without them, but only if NOT on a creeper)
- one of my sons as a helper
- flashlight with fresh batteries (in case I'm slower than I hope to be)
- The belt removal tool and front bumper platform will already be with me in my truck
ALSO... It looks like my only option (reasonably priced) is the rebuilt Cardone pump and/or MasterPro hoses (both with Limited Lifetime Warranty). Any input on those options? The Ford stuff is 2x-3x the cost of the others.
ONE LAST QUESTION... If it is the pressure hose (or one of them), I am tempted to go ahead and replace both while I'm in there... what say you??
BTW... We are VERY fortunate that this happened exactly as my wife was parking because she simply is not big enough or strong enough to steer or stop the truck had she been in traffic or on the highway!
EDIT: Additional Items per suggestions from everyone's input below...
- pliers (vice-grips, channel locks, regular slip joint, etc.)
- long neck funnel for fluid fill
- rags
- mirror on a stick AND Borescope Camera for thorough inspection capability
- nitrile gloves
- orange traffic cones to block off front and side of truck
As always, thanks ahead of time for your input.
As for changing both, I normally would change only the one that's the current problem but if your budget allows, it certainly could save you another episode later on. Considering both lines are the same age ... My 2¢.
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. Don't forget rags!
I changed them all when I noticed the amount of rust on them when swapping turbos the other day..
edit: You'll likely be removing the battery as well
Last edited by Dan V; May 27, 2014 at 03:10 PM. Reason: additional info
Sometimes the nipple on those housings cracks, and that's all it is. May not be the fix for you, but I wouldn't rule it out. I'd much rather have the original OEM pump with a new reservoir housing, than a cheap Chinese chain store replacement of the entire pump.
Sometimes the failure is in the retention clip of the hose fitting, but that failure has never happened to me yet.
Dan, the battery tray portion of the air box is all that remains at this point, but good tips, for sure!! I can ****** out the tray and battery pretty quickly.
Y2KW57... I'll look at those areas carefully. Thanks.
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... on second thought... I'll probably just slip one of my XL nitrile gloves over the inlet, and that way I can't miss the need to remove it before re-installing everything.
I'm heading out in about 45 minutes to try to get a jump start ahead of the heavy traffic flow on the interstate. Thus far, I've verified that O'Reilly's has both hoses and the reservoir in stock, and NAPA has the pump... can't find any one location that has it all, so I'll probably split my efforts between those two locations depending on what I find to be the problem.
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Could be a late night. You never know what snags you might hit that digest the sun into night.
The sole problem was that the fitting on the side of the pump (pressure hose to hydroboost) blew out... sort of. The tube fitting o-ring was dislodged from inside the nut housing. I guess it was a vibration-related wear on the o-ring which allowed it to get pushed outside of the housing. Once it was dislodged, there was enough pressure relief such that the hose itself was not blown out of the fitting nut.
It was dark at the time, so I'll post up pictures tonight so you can see what I'm talking about.
Two hours total, not rushing, both pressure hoses replaced. The fitting on top of the gear box was the worst to get a good grip on, and the R&R for that particular fitting took as much time as removing the battery tray and IC tube.
PROBLEM... I've started a completely new thread for this issue so we can call this thread "done" (except for me posting a couple of pictures tonight).
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14385398
UPDATE (05/31/2014) The problem stated above is resolved as far as noise is concerned.
Thanks again for all your input and help.
It depends on where exactly the leak is on the hose or fitting itself, and depends on which hose attached to the pump you are talking about.
Ford says that the teflon sealing ring "must be replaced" whenever you open up the connection. You don't have to replace the entire hose, only the teflon sealing ring. Ford recommends using a teflon seal replacement tool, which has been utilized on these fittings for the last 35 years... but people have figured out how to install the new teflon seal ring without the special tool... which is essentially a tapered cone.
Here is a Ford diagram that distinguishes a leak by locality on the fitting...
Here is a Ford picture of the action of the Teflon Seal Replacer tool, and the location of the ring on the fitting...

Another pic... same, only straight...














