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I'm probably going to abandon my 3-speed (shame!) and go with a C6. I don't mind a "stick" in some vehicles, but I don't want one in my pickup. I have noticed the vendors that sell carpet kits specify a different pattern if the truck is equipped with a C6, describing a "high tunnel". Does that mean I have to modify, or obtain a replacement trans. tunnel if I abandon the 3 speed in favor of an auto? I have the original 352. I have searched the forums herein, but have not found this subject addressed...I'm sure it has been and it probably won't be the last time I propose an inane and redundant question as I begin my restoration. Thanks all!!
NO, my former 3spd runs a C6 with no cab mods. There is another issue that does have to be dealt with with 2 options. The bell on the tranny will not pass through the opening are between the cross member and the floor.
1- The cross member is riveted in on the 3spd. the rivets will have to be cut punched out and replaced with bolts to allow install with engine in place. or
2- The engine will have to be pulled, C6 mounted and installed as one unit.
I just put a c-6 in my pickup and changed nothing on the cab had to shorten the drive shaft and change the universal joint but other then that nothing else has changed at all
Speaking of specific C-6 for the FE engine, should there be a specific casting or part number on the Transmission, I should be looking for to verify that I will have a matching unit? I know there are a few C-6's around, I'd rather not take the seller's word and have to resell the darn thing. Thanks again....
Speaking of specific C-6 for the FE engine, should there be a specific casting or part number on the Transmission, I should be looking for to verify that I will have a matching unit? I know there are a few C-6's around, I'd rather not take the seller's word and have to resell the darn thing. Thanks again....
Round top bell for the FE. Flat top bell 5 1/2" bolt spread 300-6 302/351W, flat top 7 1/2" bolt spread 460/429/400 M. Those are the 3 bells that you will find on the C6.
Again, John, thank you for your expertise and knowledge! I have done a few restorations, but always to completely original. This is my first journey into modification/substitution. Different for me as there is no "pattern" to copy. I appreciate having this source of information!!!
I try to respond to questions that I have actually done myself. Unlike Mr. Wilson I have never sold new parts by the book, so I do make a mistake now and then.
One more tidbit, on the tranny that you use pull the shift arm on the side of the tranny all the way up in park. The one for trucks runs along the pan seam like this - one for cars drops down like this / but not that dramatic. They can be swapped but need to be done before installing.
also another dead giveaway on a c6 for an FE they have 3 bolt holes for the starter where the small blocks and big blocks all use 2 bolts...... that cross member they are talking about you can cut it out with a torch if you had to (its what i did to clear my headers) but since i did this i noticed my truck isn't quite as stiff as it used to be but i have worked her butt off since i did it and no serious qualms that i can tell and i have known many people to do this but if you have the time its always better to do like john said and make it to where you can bolt it back in place
I am running long tube Hookers on my FE with the now bolted in cross member. I suspect you are adding stress elsewhere by not having the cross member in place.