When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I knew I was having some electrical problems with some of the codes I was getting after a buzz test (High to low side open on cylinder #1,2,4,5,7) and cylinder #7 sounded especially weak and also got cylinder 1 glow plug circuit code. When ohm-ing stuff out I found that at the valve cover that everything checked out except for the glow plug on cylinder 1 (corresponding with the code I got)...#7 ohm-ed fine at the passenger valve cover. But what I found is that at the 42 pin connector the only injector that did not read was #7...
So if it has resistance at the valve covers but not the 42 pin connector, does that mean the wire is messed somewhere in btw there? I did not see any obvious problems and most of the wiring was in good shape.
It could be at the connector from harness to UVCH. Unplug it and check the terminals on both the UVCH side and the harness side - look for any signs of burned terminals on either plug. Other than that, one thing I noticed with my meter is that I have to "snap" the tip of the probe into the 42-pin female holes, but it sounds like you have that part figured out.
That's good. Take a look at those connector pins. Meter the resistance from the #7 injector pin on the harness (where it plugs into the UVCH) to the #7 injector pin on the 42-pin connector. While you're doing that, move the harness around a bit at the UVCH side.
0.2 - 0.3 is the glow plug, about 3.0 is the injector coil.
He already metered the injectors from the UVCH. He wants to check the harness portion out, so metering from where the harness plugs into the UVCH (unplugged), back to the 42-pin, he should see .2 or .3 ohms.
I must have made mistake while ohming out the connector at the valve covers cuz #7 injector didn't have power, so I pulled the cover and the wire going to injector was unhooked. Once I get everything back together I'll see how she runs.
Amazes me how some of these units are plagued with some issues and others not, and vice-versa.
Anytime I get a connector open, I'll use some aerosol contact cleaner and Dielectric Grease where they marry to keep moisture (and other stuff) out.
Glad you got it figured out.
If you ever replace your UVCH keep the connector with some wire length and it makes it a lot easier. Actually, I keep just about any connector from any vehicle where access is an issue.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.