Bad engine vibration
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
Can you elaborate more on why a helper pump isn't needed?
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 9
From: Longview, TX
The OEM pump is generally more than adequate to provide the desired pressure for stock sticks. premature failures are primarily due to restrictions, such as clogged screens or aftermarket prepump filters which are too restrictive. Helper pumps are for situations where there is more restriction than what the OEM pump was designed for.
If you do the hutch mod properly, and are careful in your selection if prepump filter, the OEM pump should be fine for the design life and beyond.
If you do the hutch mod properly, and are careful in your selection if prepump filter, the OEM pump should be fine for the design life and beyond.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
I am strongly considering this for ease of installation and convenience. What's your opinion.
Driven Diesel Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit
Driven Diesel Fuel Tank / Pre-Pump Kit
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 9
From: Longview, TX
From what I hear it's a good kit, but I haven't used it personally. Here's a parts list, all can be bought at oreillys.
1 - 3/8" tube compression union brass
1 - 5/16" tube compression union brass 3ft - 5/16" steel tubing (hydraulic, green)
6" - 3/8" stainless steel tubing (hydraulic, green)
10-12' - 3/8" 30R7 or higher rated fuel injection line.
8 - stainless steel worm clamps
Tubing bender
File (to remove coating on the green tubing at oreillys so the ferrules fit)
In-line fuel filter (your choice, but there are many threads devoted to the topic).
I buy 2 each of the compression fittings in case you drop/lose a ferrule. The tubing is at oreilly and is for hydraulic or brake line. Steel coated, green, with flares and fittings, just cut the fittings off.
The guzzle link in my sig has all of the instructions. Just modify depending on what filter you use.
1 - 3/8" tube compression union brass
1 - 5/16" tube compression union brass 3ft - 5/16" steel tubing (hydraulic, green)
6" - 3/8" stainless steel tubing (hydraulic, green)
10-12' - 3/8" 30R7 or higher rated fuel injection line.
8 - stainless steel worm clamps
Tubing bender
File (to remove coating on the green tubing at oreillys so the ferrules fit)
In-line fuel filter (your choice, but there are many threads devoted to the topic).
I buy 2 each of the compression fittings in case you drop/lose a ferrule. The tubing is at oreilly and is for hydraulic or brake line. Steel coated, green, with flares and fittings, just cut the fittings off.
The guzzle link in my sig has all of the instructions. Just modify depending on what filter you use.
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 151
Likes: 6
I am very familiar with Guzzles post for the hutch mod. I figure the complete kit would save me some time in hunting down parts.
Could the helper pump do harm? I don't see it causing any. I just want to insure everything is tip top shape and then some. If you were to use a helper pump would you go pump filter pump or filter pump pump?
Took the Excursion to a buddy's house about 20 miles one way, runs like a champ!
Could the helper pump do harm? I don't see it causing any. I just want to insure everything is tip top shape and then some. If you were to use a helper pump would you go pump filter pump or filter pump pump?
Took the Excursion to a buddy's house about 20 miles one way, runs like a champ!
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,555
Likes: 9
From: Longview, TX
Depends, if you keep the pickup foot and the mesh that's there, you could get away with pump filter pump. If you delete that like I have, definitely a filter first. The goal isn't to really filter, but to protect the pump from foreign objects. The filter is still in place under the hood. I installed a goldenrod screen before mine, just to grab the big stuff.
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